Tank Removal

[Crackshot]

Alright folks,

I'm getting my bike painted (yay!) so I have to remove all the plastics and tank. I've removed the fairing before, so that shouldn't be a problem, but I've never removed the tank.

What steps should I take to take it off?


Thanks,
Crackshot.

[The CyberPoet]

The first time goes best with two people, but can be done alone if you take your time.

98+ (which your profile says you have):

remove upper fairings (since you have to anyway to paint).
double-check to make sure petcock is NOT set to PRIME.
Using a set of bottle/needle-nose pliers, undo fuel petcock connection that you can readily get at (ignore the one that's on the back-side). This disconnects the fuel supply to the carbs.
------- This section applies only to you since you're getting it painted:
Connect a 3 to 4 foot spare fuel line to where you just removed the line to the carbs. Run the other end into a gas can. Turn the petcock to prime and use the key to open the tank's cap. Let it run dry, or as close as reasonably possible, then set the petcock back to "RES" and disconnect the fuel line.
-------- END OF SPECIAL SECTION ----------
other side of the bike, locate the #4 carb (the one closest to that side), pull off the vacuum hose going to the nipple at the top of the carb. Looks just like a fuel line, but the fuel line on the 98+ runs to a rail between carb 2 & carb 3, so you can't go wrong.
locate the wire (wire pair? it's late...) that runs from that same area around the right side of the airbox to a pigtail connector almost at the rear end of the airbox (sometimes it's mounted to a hole in the cross-bar that holds the fuses & relays). This is the wire for the sender -- disconnect (note: do not confuse with the pigtail from the throttle position sensor, which has a triangular pigtail connector with 3 pin-leads in it).
Undo the two bolts at the rear of the gas tank (by the battery). Tag and bag them and the 4 rubber adaptors [2 per bolt], cause later you'll sure wish you did when one of the rubber vibration isolators goes astray.
Pay close attention and read this & the next step first -- lift the rear of the tank by about 1 inch, then slide it towards the back of the bike by 2-1/2 inches. This should release the front of the tank from where it hooks into the frame by the steering stem... Lots of people lift too much, bending the metal prongs on the underside of the tank that holds it at the front -- and later they have a vibration issue or wiggley tank. If you can't get it to come back far enough to release the front, lift it a little more (a little!). DO NOT LIFT THE TANK AWAY FROM THE BIKE YET!
Now before lifting the tank away more than another couple inches, reach under it to the center and find the only hose coming out of the bottom of the tank (not off the petcock) -- yank it off (normally there's no clamp on it) -- this is the hose for tank overflow and air equalization. If you have a California model, there's some extra plumbing connected to the tank or to that drain hose, but it gets treated the same (pull it off if connected to the tank).
Now lift the tank away and set it on something that won't scratch it -- grass, sand, wood, a towel, but not concrete or gravel. I know you're thinking, "hey, I'm getting it painted!", but deep gouges from concrete may make for a poor paint job or extra expenses filling them, not to mention that it'll expose metal that can rust before the painter gets to it... Hanging off the tank will still be the vacuum line to carb #4...

In your case, you'll also probably need to remove the petcock and fuel sender -- talk to your painter about whether he needs you to remove it in advance.

KNOW THIS:
If your petcock sits dry for more than about a week, the vacuum diaphram may get dried out and give out. Good time to consider ordering a petcock rebuild kit. This is also a great time to replace your fuel lines (every 4th year), vacuum lines (every 4th year) and do your maint (valve adjustment, oil & filter change, etc).
Check the inside of your tank for rust. If you find any (even just surface rust), treat it before taking the tank to the painter. My website has treatment methods & instructions on it...

Good Luck!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Crackshot]

Hey Cyber, thanks for the info. I tried searching Ron Ayers and Dennis Kirk; am I going to have to order replacement lines and such from a Zuki dealer?

Also, I've been looking at replacing the Airfilter and doing other low cost improvements to the bike. Is a hi flow filter going to help at all? I was thinking something along the lines of

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=304534&store=Main&catId=413&productId=p304533&leafCatId=41302&mmyId=7417

that.

I don't have enough experience to do a rejet or anything, so I kinda have to Keep it simple.


Once again, thanks,
Crackshot

[The CyberPoet]

Hey Cyber, thanks for the info. I tried searching Ron Ayers and Dennis Kirk; am I going to have to order replacement lines and such from a Zuki dealer?

There is one formed fuel line (90 degree bend) coming off the petcock that I'd use the factory part for (suzuki PN 44431-21E00, about $7 - $9); the rest is generic and I'd use auto-parts store bulk hose rated for the purpose (cheap).

Also, I've been looking at replacing the Airfilter and doing other low cost improvements to the bike. Is a hi flow filter going to help at all? I was thinking something along the lines of

IMHO: stick to the stock filter -- it filters better than any alternative I've seen, which means longer life for the engine, and no changes in vacuum levels means no screwing with the jetting. If you go aftermarket, go for the K&N airbox filter... avoid the filter you pointed out (which I believe is the Emgo -- looks like the stock filter, but flows more, resulting in a drop in vacuum pressure and possible issues if the bike is lean already, like it ships from the factory).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Crackshot]

Awesome, thanks for the help. While its appart, I'm gonna throw the bike into the shop for brakes, brake lines, etc.

[shagg_9]

thanks cyberpoet, but in my case, i just need to change plugs. can i take the tank off w/o the side farings? also, how do i tell if i need to change fuel lines, i bought it at the beginning of last season, and it came from a nice used bike/ performance shop. do you think they did it anyway being it was 4 yrs old? she is a 2000 Kat 600.

[The CyberPoet]

thanks cyberpoet, but in my case, i just need to change plugs. can i take the tank off w/o the side farings? also, how do i tell if i need to change fuel lines, i bought it at the beginning of last season, and it came from a nice used bike/ performance shop. do you think they did it anyway being it was 4 yrs old? she is a 2000 Kat 600.

(A) No, you can't take off the tank without at least opening the side-fairings up enough to lift the tank out. That means lower fairings off, rear bolts on the side fairings out, pull fairings away.

(B) No shop in the world that isn't keeping the bike for themselves is going to put any $$ into it they don't have to -- which means they won't have replaced the fuel lines/vacuum lines. Given that it's an '00, you are also due for new brake lines (go aftermarket -- you can get SS-lines for about what you'd pay for stock replacements).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet