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Header Bolts rusted over.

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  • Header Bolts rusted over.

    Ok guys, I've spent the last few days trying to figure out how exactly I want to get rid of these SOB's. I got rid of 6/8 of the bolts but theres 2 that i cant seem to remove. the First one budged a little but wont move with vice grips and of the likes. only allen key and breaker bar, but the problem i stripped the head of the thing. now it doesnt want to move at all. tried an EZ out.... which snapped. now im really pissed and frustrated. i'm considering just cutting the head of the bolt off and taking off the exhaust and then just cut a square into the end of the bolt and using some BIG pliers and just torquing them off. does anyone got any suggestions? I already PB blasted for nearly 2 weeks now which is how i got the other header bolts out. Any advice would be great. Thanks.

  • #2
    heat the head when you remove the bolt, try to keep the bolt cooler than the head
    "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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    • #3
      Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
      heat the head when you remove the bolt, try to keep the bolt cooler than the head
      Tried. that sucker is on there tight. the problem is i cant really heat it near the thread because there's a header cover preventing me frm putting any real heat or cold to the bolt; which is why I want to cut the bolts head off so i can get to it.

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      • #4
        do what you have to do.
        "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
        spammer police
        USAF veteran
        If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
          do what you have to do.
          i took mine to the shop-- cost me 145 for one bolt

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          • #6
            Auto parts stores will carry an aerosol can spray... one brand name is "freeze off". It drops the temp way way down on bolts and such to help break them loose.

            I would suggest heating the engine (if it will run, that's a great way to go about that), then treating the bolt head with that spray.

            IF... the threading is not already galled up that should work. If the threads are toast, your gonna need to drill out the bolt and ream the threads.

            Krey
            93 750 Kat



            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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            • #7
              Have you tried hammering a socket over the head of the bolt? I had to do this to get a couple of mine off last year. Just be careful to not put too much leaverage on the socket or you'll snap the head off the bolt.

              Of course then you have the pain of getting the bolt out the socket......

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              • #8
                I did the same thing as "tea pot" paul- Hammered on I beleive it was a 11mm socket.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MikeyZ View Post
                  I did the same thing as "tea pot" paul- Hammered on I beleive it was a 11mm socket.
                  I'll give it a try right now thanks. i'll let you guys know how it goes.

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                  • #10
                    I'd try reinstalling the other bolts and torque them down, then try to crack the other two lose, but if the allan head is stripped you could try to hammer in another size up. Try to tighten the bolt first then crack it lose. A mig welder could also be handy, welding some hex nuts onto the head of the bolts. Another option is turbo bits (fluted bits that tighten over the head of a bolt) http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1302930.html might be able to find one in the 8-10mm range to go on the outside of the allan bolt.

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                    • #11
                      Mapp
                      90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

                      Originally posted by Badfaerie
                      I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
                      Originally posted by soulless kaos
                      but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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                      • #12
                        Heat the bolt and threads like Krey said and use cold water to quench the bolt, it really works, old tractor mechanic trick.
                        Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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                        • #13
                          couldnt do it, ended up just cutting the bolt heads off and might take it to a welding place if i cant fix it. im going to drill a hole in the middle of the screw and then put a metal rod in the middle and try to twist it and i'll try the heating and cooling ideas. thanks guys.

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                          • #14
                            If you have not already drilled the bolt you might want to try drilling it with a left handed drill bit. That way as the drill cuts it will also try to spin the bolt out.

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                            • #15
                              take it to a welding shop and have them weld some nuts on it. Put the other bolts back in and torque them down (will help take some clamping force off the bad bolts) after having the nuts welded on, spray again, and try to tighten the bad bolts first, then if the move a tad, work them back and forth little by little. Just went threw this again with rims I'm getting ready to powder coat for myself.



                              Even though they are grade 8 bolts in the picture I end up snapping the heads off lol then welded on a nut to those and they came out. But a welder with .023 wire should work fine and some nuts.

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