Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Float height, A/F screws and visual sync

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Float height, A/F screws and visual sync

    I pulled and disassembled my carbs this weekend.

    Upong putting setting the float height, I noticed that they all were exactly 13 mm as measured from the carb body to the very top of the float.

    I didn't bother removing the A/F screw cap, because I figured if that cap is on, the screws should be at the factory spec (if it ain't broke, don't fix it).

    Lastly, when trying to visual sync, I couldn't get the idle adjuster to reveal half of that tiny hole (maybe I didn't screw the adjustment scrwe far enough. It was late and I just ran out of gas last night). However, when I pulled the butterfly valves back maybe .5-1.0mm to reveal the hole. All of the valves did look to be in perfect alignment when I revealed the hole.

    Question 1 - Is this a common thing? That all three things mentioned would be within spec to this degree? The PO didn't do any sort of maintenace other than oil change and battery change because he killed it. the bike sat for years (4,000 miles in 9 years).

    The bike had a heck of a time starting and would occassionally die while riding, leading me to just pull the carbs check them out. I put in new spark plugs and all the plugs were coated in carbon. The plug from carb 4 was the worst; it had carbon around the electrode and also white and brown buildup around the nut. The plug from carb 3 had carbon and a little fuel on the electrode. The other two just had carbon. Also, there was carbon sitting all over the A/F screw cap on carb 4.

    Question 2 - The carbon indicates a rich mix at that particular carb correct? What can I do to correct?

    Question 3 - Anything from this post that generally stands out to anyone?
    Extra life.

  • #2
    did you rebuild the carbs ?
    THE most important part about cleaning carbs which have sat for several years is cleaning out ALL the idle circuit passages.
    You can NOT do a proper rebuild without removing the af screws and flushing (soaking) out these passages.

    ps... Visual or bench sync'ing is a good starting point, but it is half assed to say the least.
    Think of each cylinder as an air pump, each will pull somewhat differently on the carbs which is why they need to be sync'd with the engine running at off idle speed. IE: 2500 rpm or better to get an accurate good running setting.

    hth

    Comment


    • #3
      Is that why the manual says the sync RPM is 1750.

      Comment


      • #4
        I...mostly rebuilt. I disassebled everything except the AF screws and I did not take the carbs off of the rail.

        While I understand the thought behind cleaning everything if you are going to clean it; do I really need to remove the AF screws? I mean, is there anything that can foul up, clog, etc. that would justify going in there, besides doing it for the sake of cleaning? Again, my hestitation there is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it (even if it may be dirty in there).

        Also, I fully plan on doing a proper sync with my (ahem) homemade manometer, but I wanted to bench sync as a preliminary measure.

        Lastly, when doing syncing, I thought you idled around 1750 rpms as Arsenic stated?
        Extra life.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yes, you really need to remove them. I just remove them and shoot compressed air though the housing. Soaking them is a tad overkill. A "rebuild" means you replace ALL the rubber parts. Which means you have to take them apart and separate them. As the fuel line seals need to be replaced. People never understand the difference between rebuild and clean. Yes, sync speed is 1750. The manual says that, not just me.

          Comment


          • #6
            Okay. I'm going to take the AF caps off and hit em with some compressed air now. Thanks!

            As far as the other stuff from my first post, does that sound okay?
            Extra life.

            Comment


            • #7
              You gotta take the A/F screw, spring, washer, and o-ring out too. You can't just take the brass plug off and blow air at the screw. Your whole "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" with the A/F screws. It's WAY off. Simple fact, factory setting IS broke. So fix it.
              Last edited by arsenic; 07-23-2012, 03:58 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Lol I'm getting to it now.
                Extra life.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
                  From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
                  this is the place to talk about the heart of the beast!



                  I am going through the same process right now. Arsenic is coorct, the AF screws are off even from the factory. All 4 of mine were set at a different number of turns. Just drill out the caps and remove the screws. It's not difficult, at all. Just go slowly so you don't drill out the slot in the screw.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                    Is that why the manual says the sync RPM is 1750.
                    yes.

                    However results are alot more effective if a little further off idle

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sure, we'll go with that.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X