[boomer_95]

i didn't see you had more questions... OK so I'm a bit tired and some of your wording is a little confusing but I'll give it a shot:

not sure about the idle screw as i have a pre and I'm not sure how similar they are. also ive never run into that issue myself so maybe arsnic can jump in on that one

most of the brass pieces aren't that bad. the seat is tho. i would clean them all anyways just to make sure they are perfectly clean

the silver cylinders are held in place with the emulsion tubes. you just drop them in the right way then screw the tubes in. the flattest part goes to the emulsion tube side, the stepped side goes towards the top of the carb

the af screws. the settings are kinda guidelines. very good guidelines but nonetheless. one cylinder might need to be slightly richer or leaner than another. if it did run perfectly fine on those settings at one time put them back to those settings (general rule, unless you didn't find out the settings in the first place)

and i would replace all the o'rings just because of the age (i'm lazy tonight and didn't actually see the year or size of your bike)

hope that helps and you get er running right soon

[green_bread]

Dude, boomer, thank you!! I actually ended up answering a lot of my own questions while putting it back together.. haha.. but you coming in and confirming a lot of that stuff is a HUGE help/relief. Maybe some other people doing the same thing will benefit from this thread... hopefully!

So, I think the issue with the idle screw was that a good visual sync was never performed by the last mechanic who cleaned the carbs. After re-assembling everything and doing the visual sync, I am able to adjust the butterfly valve to where it will either completely show or completely hide the first of the 3 small holes in the bottom of the carb where before I could only see the very leading edge of that hole with the idle screw turned fully in.

All brass pieces were soaked overnight in Berryman carb cleaner (not the dip.. couldnt afford to shell out $30 for a gallon, right now) and all of the rubber was replaced except for the o-rings for the A/F screws... couldnt find those locally anywhere and the ones that came out were still in pretty good shape. I plan on thoroughly testing for vacuum leaks once everything is back on the bike. If I have to pull the carbs again to replace them, so be it... at least I wont have to fully tear them down again.

As far as setting the A/F screws, I used the guideline of 1.75 turns out from the Wiki since that was around the average amount of turns all of them were out from the factory, anyway. If adjustments need to be made there, at least I have the initial measurements to reference in this thread.

Thanks again, boomer! I feel like Ive learned a lot already from this process and I dont feel quite as intimidated about pulling the carbs apart, now.

[boomer_95]

NP

the orings on the af screws usually don't need to be replaced as there is tension on them from the spring to keep a seal. usually only if they are very old and brittle or they got cut, or lost.

i think arsenic usually suggests 2 1/2 turns for the af screws but i'm not 100% on that.

ya once you have your first set of carbs torn apart and reassembled, its pretty easy after

[green_bread]

i think arsenic usually suggests 2 1/2 turns for the af screws but i'm not 100% on that.

See... I thought I had read that, as well... but Carbs102 says 1.75 for stock and 2.25 if you have a jet kit. I could DEFINITELY use some clarification on that. Ill shoot arsenic a PM and see what he has to say about it.

[arsenic]

Yes, 2.5 turns out. That's correct. I don't really care what carbs 102 says. If it says anything other then 2.5, it's wrong.

[green_bread]

Yes, 2.5 turns out. That's correct. I don't really care what carbs 102 says. If it says anything other then 2.5, it's wrong.

I'd trust you WAY more than Carbs102. That's why I asked the master. Thanks again for taking the time!