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No Spark (prelim checks)

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  • 92xjunker
    replied
    And FYI it can read good but, still be faulty. We've had it happen. If it looks melted or deformed in anyway, change it out.

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  • Rootzee
    replied
    Ok finally got a little time to **** around with the bike tonight. I took the good advice and waited for a new battery. I have been out of the mechanics gig for over three years, and have not utilized my skills since, so I am a little rusty.

    Alright, so going through the diag sequence in the service manual, I am on the pulse generator coil part. It tells me that there is a red 2 pin connector in the rubber boot on the left hand side. I am not seeing a red 2 pin connector. However, there is a covered tube of three wires, and two go to a 2 pin, and one goes to a single pin (sorry no pics as my phone was dead) The wires come from the right side of the bikes engine cover. Is this what I am looking for?

    So the pulse coil generator, according to the service manual, is faulty. Apparently it should have between 135 and 200 Ohms, and it's reading 3.000 Kohms
    Last edited by Rootzee; 04-23-2012, 10:28 PM. Reason: I think I figured it out!

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  • Rootzee
    replied
    Still nothing as of yet to update on...but I am chipping away when I can. Works been extremely busy!

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  • icycold68
    replied
    Originally posted by ATOMonkey View Post
    V = IR

    Now, tell me how increasing R leads to higher I with a constant V.

    Any burned up anything is the result of something failing to ground (or a reduction in Resistance or Impedance), which is what was draining the battery. This only made it look like a bad battery, because no one took the time to see if that was actually the problem.

    So yes, in that case, I would not recommend hooking up any kind of battery, as 300 CCA will cause just as much of a fire as 750 CCA.

    Why? Resistance goes to basically zero, I goes up, and VI = P. Too much P and you get fire.

    It is hard to argue with George Ohm, but I have also ran into Mr. Murphy and his law as well. I=v/r always works on paper. I have found trusting in people with real accredited experience. Usually works in the garage

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  • ATOMonkey
    replied
    Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
    It's not the physical size, it's the amperage it packs. There is much more amperage available in a car battery than a motorcycle battery. This is what leads to cooked wires, regulators, charging systems, and starters. Especially when you add in wires to connect it to the system. But hey, what do I know? It's not like I work with DC voltage for a living or anything.

    Also, by adding wire to the battery leads (lengthening them), you are introducing more voltage loss over the small wires. The system will pull more amperage as a result, and you run the risk of cooking wires. Due to this, and lower voltage, the coil test will probably not be accurate. This is well documented here in posts where people have bad batteries and have tried the very same thing with crappy results. Seriously, just wait for the new MC battery. Do it right.
    V = IR

    Now, tell me how increasing R leads to higher I with a constant V.

    Any burned up anything is the result of something failing to ground (or a reduction in Resistance or Impedance), which is what was draining the battery. This only made it look like a bad battery, because no one took the time to see if that was actually the problem.

    So yes, in that case, I would not recommend hooking up any kind of battery, as 300 CCA will cause just as much of a fire as 750 CCA.

    Why? Resistance goes to basically zero, I goes up, and VI = P. Too much P and you get fire.

    Leave a comment:


  • 05RedKat600
    replied
    Originally posted by ATOMonkey View Post
    It still amazes me that people think the physical size of a 12 volt battery makes even the slightest difference to an engine.
    It's not the physical size, it's the amperage it packs. There is much more amperage available in a car battery than a motorcycle battery. This is what leads to cooked wires, regulators, charging systems, and starters. Especially when you add in wires to connect it to the system. But hey, what do I know? It's not like I work with DC voltage for a living or anything.

    Also, by adding wire to the battery leads (lengthening them), you are introducing more voltage loss over the small wires. The system will pull more amperage as a result, and you run the risk of cooking wires. Due to this, and lower voltage, the coil test will probably not be accurate. This is well documented here in posts where people have bad batteries and have tried the very same thing with crappy results. Seriously, just wait for the new MC battery. Do it right.
    Last edited by 05RedKat600; 03-28-2012, 10:41 AM.

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  • ATOMonkey
    replied
    It still amazes me that people think the physical size of a 12 volt battery makes even the slightest difference to an engine.

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  • 05RedKat600
    replied
    .

    Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
    It's just to test to see if there is spark, and further diag where I need power. I have fashioned a few sets of battery cables, of various sizes, when I was a mechanic, to use for this purpose. I have an old set from an old Toyota tercel that is slightly larger( and I mean only slightly) that the Kats. My goal isn't to start the bike with this battery, just to assist with diagnostics.
    Last edited by 05RedKat600; 03-28-2012, 09:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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  • Rootzee
    replied
    Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
    No, don't do that as you will either be using jumper cables or who knows what to connect it. Wait for the proper battery.
    It's just to test to see if there is spark, and further diag where I need power. I have fashioned a few sets of battery cables, of various sizes, when I was a mechanic, to use for this purpose. I have an old set from an old Toyota tercel that is slightly larger( and I mean only slightly) that the Kats. My goal isn't to start the bike with this battery, just to assist with diagnostics.

    Leave a comment:


  • djdaredevil
    replied
    If you're going to use the battery for your jeep do it with the battery out of the jeep out atleast with the jeep off, and only do it like 1-2 times just to check the spark and maybe to see if she'll start

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  • 05RedKat600
    replied
    Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
    NO warranty on the battery. New one is on order. I'm thinking I'm gonna hook up the brand new battery I bought for my Jeep. I'll finish up the rest of my diagnostics, and go from there. Thanks to all who helped!
    No, don't do that as you will either be using jumper cables or who knows what to connect it. Wait for the proper battery.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rootzee
    replied
    NO warranty on the battery. New one is on order. I'm thinking I'm gonna hook up the brand new battery I bought for my Jeep. I'll finish up the rest of my diagnostics, and go from there. Thanks to all who helped!

    Leave a comment:


  • 05RedKat600
    replied
    Welcome! That is most definitely the cause of your issues, and the relay mod wouldn't have helped as the battery is shot.

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  • Rootzee
    replied
    well i may just get warranty on it. It's not even a year old. Thanks for the help!

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  • Kreylyn
    replied
    Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
    At rest it's roughly 12, cranking it drops to about 8-9 volts
    Time to replace that battery. It will never start your katana.

    Krey

    Leave a comment:

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