Another winterizing question

[Knucklehead]

I want to change the oil before I mothball my Kat for the winter. I plan on using cheap oil and then changing it and putting good stuff in it next spring like I've read in another post. My question is if it would be an issue to use car oil for this because it's alot cheaper than even the cheap motorcycle oil. I wouldn't be riding it but I'm wondering if the extra additives in car oil over time would affect the clutch plates.

Also, I like to drain the carbs because it's alot easier starting in the spring. On previous bikes, I would just turn the gas off at the tank and run the engine until all the gas was out of the carbs. Now without an "off" on the Kats tank, is it possible to just drain the bowls without taking the main feed off the tank or pulling one of the lines.

[JoeCool]

Hiya Knuckle...

I wouldn't use automobile oil instead or motorcycle oil, because from what I understand you don't empty all the oil out during changes. I can't remember but I think it's like 70-80% of the oil comes out during a change...that would mean your leaving a small percentage of automobile oil in the bike...not good with a wet clutch system.
Do a search on winterizing, you will find a lot of good details for other things you will need to do also, like cover the end of the exhaust, etc.
I think I read that many will put Sta-Bil in the gas, run it for a few minutes to make sure its in the carbs.

CyberPoet, MD86 and KatGirl are the wise one's...hopefully they will reply with more advice. They know their stuff and have been on here quite a while 8)

I pretty much follow their advice like it was the gospel

Wishing you and everyone on KR the best

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't worry about using auto-oil. I know bikers who use it as their regular oil. I would totatly use it to winterize, as the residual amount would not affect your bike really that much. When I winterized I used the cheapest 10-W40 I could find.

And you could run the gas outa your carbs by disconnecting the gas tank or disconnecting the vacuum line (and pluging the line up)...but I would just add stabilizer and run that into your carbs and call it a winter.

Oh and new plugs..

And when your done and want to ride again, add a tiny bit of oil in the plug socket before firing it up for the first time.

[Knucklehead]

Thanks for the replies and ideas guys. I plan on doing this tomorrow so I may go with the auto oil and pull the main line to the carbs.
Kickitjp, what's the benefit of a bit of oil in the plug socket next spring?

[Anonymous]

So your first crank won't be metal to metal....and it's a little bit. Ask Cyber, he'll know for sure.

[Knucklehead]

Ok sounds good. Hey CP, got your ears on?

[paperairplane]

I have done the auto oil thing most winters with no issues. I use wal mart cheapo brand 10/40.

I also use sta bil in the gas, fill the tank completely and run it long enough to get treated gas into the carbs. Never had an issue with that either.

I don't do the oil in the plug hole bit.

How long is it going to be stored and where? If it is in a heated garage for 3 months, a little sta bil in the gas and an oil change in the spring will suffice. If it is 5 months outdoors under a cover, you may need a few more precautions.

[The CyberPoet]

Here's my take on it:

(A) You can use car oil, but only use API SH and earlier. Do not leave API SJ/SL/SM in your oil over the winter, because these oils contain friction modifiers that can bond to your clutch plates, even if the engine isn't running. If you search, you can find some motorcycle-specific oils, such as Valvoline Motorcycle or Valvoline ATV, Royal Purple CycleMax, etc., for prices under $3 a liter. At that price, the savings of using a car oil isn't significant IMHO...

(B) If the bike is parked somewhere where the temp fluxes (like outdoors or in an unheated shed), leave the drain screws on the carbs open so that any condensation will run out. If it's sitting in a dry, warm spot, stabil should be sufficient, and you can run them dry simply (98+) simply by reaching through the fairing openings and pulling the vacuum hose to the petcock at carb #1 while the bike is running.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[ThAzKat]

for winter storage you only need the oil to prevent corrosion and or seizure. any auto oil will work for this. I use a cheap walmart brand 20/50.

[WildKat]

And dont worry about changing the filter either as its just gonna sit there and do basically nothing all winter. I change my oil and leave the same filter on (depending on when the last time it was changed ) and then in the spring when you change it again, then you can do the filter. Either way, no sense spending more money for a filter you wont use over the winter.

[Knucklehead]

Thanks for the replies guys. It will be stored in an unheated shed and we have such temperature variations around here throughout the winter, I will definitely pull the line at the petcock and run it dry.
Looks like it's Walmart oil without a filter change until the spring. I'll keep an eye out to avoid the oils with those ratings CP. The cheap ones are probably less likely to have the "good stuff" in them anyway.

[The CyberPoet]

Looks like it's Walmart oil without a filter change until the spring. I'll keep an eye out to avoid the oils with those ratings CP. The cheap ones are probably less likely to have the "good stuff" in them anyway.

SuperWalmarts in my area carry a cheap Castrol GP4 motorcycle oil that would do just fine

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Knucklehead]

Yeah if they have anything like that here I'll pick it up. I'd rather spend a couple of extra bucks just to be on the safe side.