[Big_kat]

Well I pulled the carbs off I flipped them over plugged one fuel line and blew in the other but couldn't, it was sealed. After that I went to remove ther bowls on carbs 3&4 and realized that one on the screws that holds the bowl on carb 4 was loose. Is there a carbs 101 with pics? Or can someone walk me through how to clean the float seats and all?

[Kreylyn]

Well I pulled the carbs off I flipped them over plugged one fuel line and blew in the other but couldn't, it was sealed. After that I went to remove ther bowls on carbs 3&4 and realized that one on the screws that holds the bowl on carb 4 was loose. Is there a carbs 101 with pics? Or can someone walk me through how to clean the float seats and all?

Click the link at the top of the page "wiki"

Search text "carbs 101"

Click the PDF link for full process with pics of doing a set of carbs for a pre. Follow precisely. Don't skip steps. Do a full dip on each carb body.

Krey

[Big_kat]

Ok started taking the carbs apart.



Few questions.

Vacuum port o ring were different sizes. Normal? concern?



Don't know exactly what to call this but i found a pin hole here.



Do i absolutely need to drill out the a/f mix screws?

And when it says to remove the fuel t's i assume that means the t's between 1-2 and 3-4. Looks like the carbs need to be separated to do this but the orings dont look good (cracked around edges). Should I go ahead and replace those?

Last thing. do i need to remove the plastic slides that go into the carbs for the choke?

[Wild-Bill]

1. Vacuum port o-rings should be the same sizes.
2. If you mean you found a pinhole in the rubber diaphragm that goes in the top of the carb then you need to replace the diaphragm. It is possible to repair the hole with a dab of glue but it's generally better to just replace the thing.
3. Yes, you really do need to remove the A/F screws and that means drilling out the plugs. Use a 1/8" drill bit and go slow. You want to get through the brass plug but it's really easy to hit the screw underneath when the drill bit breaks through the plug. Once you've drilled the plug, screw a sheet metal screw into that 1/8" hole and use it to pull the plug out. When you take the A/F screw out there's a spring, a washer and an o-ring in there. A small piece of wire with a hook bent in the end will get those out nicely.
4. The fuel T's are sealed with a cup-like seal. If those are cracked then replace them. They're not expensive. Yes, you do need to separate the carbs to get them out but you need to do that anyway to soak the carbs. You're only going to fit one carb at a time in the gallon can of solvent that you DID pick up from Autozone (or wherever), right?
5. Yes, remove all plastic and rubber bits before soaking the carbs. The solvent isn't kind to plastic and rubber and, typically they cover over the exact small passages in the carb bodies that get clogged up.

[Big_kat]

[Wild-Bill]

That's not a pinhole. That's an air passage.

[Big_kat]

Where can i buy The fuel o-ring cups?

[Big_kat]

Well i got everything buttoned back up after i set the floats. Installed the fuel lines, then the airbox, went to go install them on the bike and accidentally snapped the brass line that goes from the choke on the #4 carb. I feel like an idiot. I'm assuming that now I need to replace that carb body. Cranked it up anyways, idled fine after i adjusted it, as soon as i hit the gas it lacked throttle response and the rmps hung.

[Wild-Bill]

You can replace the tubing. Hit your local hobby shop for material and use a small torch to heat the glue holding the original tube. The other possibility is soldering the tube back together. Brass will hold solder. If you try that run a piece of safety wire through the tube before soldering to make sure the solder doesn't block off the tube. The solder won't stick to safety wire.

[gwigs]

If tuned right, the carbs can be used, but I would suggest using the carbs designed for the engine.

As for 2nd gear... even doing the work yourself, your probably gonna find that an engine swap is cheaper. To fix the issue, you need to replace some transmission parts, and that requires you to crack the case. A set of gaskets alone for putting it back together is going to run in the $200+ range easily, not counting the parts to fix, oil, misc stuffs, etc...

A known good engine could be had for $2-300 in the 600 and 750 range pretty easily. Invest a bit more and you could get a b12 or 1127 motor in there and really get a performance boost as well.

Krey

I have just replaced 2nd and fifth gears on my 1100,and your problem sounds like the gear dogs are worn or a shift fork issue or both.My problem was the same 2nd was ok till I hit 5000rpm and it would just pop out.I would recommend just getting a replacement engine if you can get one at a good price,you wont save much doing the trans youreself and its a big job, only reason I did my own job was I like a challenge..Listen to Krey

[Big_kat]

I'll get a video soon of the sound second gear makes. I do plan on getting an engine though.

[gwigs]

Hey, I rode my bike for months with a poked 2nd ,you get used to short shifting out of 2nd ....

[Big_kat]

When I put the a/f back in I set them all to 1.75, now the bike smokes a bit and after i turn it off smoke comes out of the pipes...? what should I do? Btw the bike has exhaust if that helps. I appreciate all the help.

[Wild-Bill]

You need those screws at 2.5 turns at least. The factory set them at 1.75 to get the bikes past emissions requirements back before they started adding so much ethanol to the gas. They were a little lean to begin with and now, with ethanol in the gas everywhere you go, the factory setting is way too lean.

[Big_kat]

Set the A/f screws out to 2.5. Built a water manometer to sync the carbs but i cant get it to idle. It will hang at 3k for a while so I got 1-2 then 3-4 then 1-3 but it just wont idle down. If i try to adjust the idle down it just keeps dropping till it dies. It seems to be getting worse as I try to sync them.