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it just recently happened today. i started riding and i shifted completely and in about a min it just goes back to neutral. it doesnt really go back to neutral though because when i try to shift, its still in 5th or 6th and the neutral light doesnt come up. i dont know whats really wrong with it. is it my chain? maybe the sproket not catching it? or is it the transmission? i dont know. the thing is i need to change my chain and sproket because it looks worn out but dont have the cash flow right now. Does anyone know whats wrong with it?
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Sounds like you may have a worn out clutch. If you give it a lot of gas at this point, what does the engine do (does it spin up without a change in speed)?
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet -
yeah it did that i started gasing it and it catches it sometimes and sometimes it doesnt. it pulled me over and over than it finally worked. i hope thats not the clutch.Originally posted by The CyberPoet
how much does that cost?
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What type of oil is in there? Car oils can do Bad Things to your bike clutch...
And you better hope it IS just the clutch; otherwise you could be looking at a new engine!
/kibafind / -name "*your base*" -exec chown us:us {} \;
You must realize that someday you will die-until you know that, you are useless
If you can't make it fit with a sledge hammer, don't force it!
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetOriginally posted by y2fat2furiousyeah it did that i started gasing it and it catches it sometimes and sometimes it doesnt. it pulled me over and over than it finally worked. i hope thats not the clutch. how much does that cost?Figure to redo a clutch fully (new pads, new plates, springs, oil, replace the clutch cable and a few other parts) will probably run you $180 in parts and you can do the labor yourself if you have any mechanical skills at all (it's not very complicated, just somewhat time consuming).Originally posted by kiba
Kiba is right about the oil -- any API SJ, SL or SM rated motor oils could be causing this issue (or any motor oil marked "Energy Conserving" in the lower part of the API ring), or any motor oil or oil-additive containing graphite, moly or teflon. You can find out more about how to select motorcycle-specific oils for your bike (and what works & what doesn't -- and more over why) here.
Unfortunately, once most of these compounds bind to the clutch pads, they usually won't unbind from the pad surfaces, and the only solution is to drain the engine of all it's oil and change the pads anyway.
There are three other possibilities. The first one is that someone (you?) has been sliding the clutch a lot (a whole lot) and it has resulted in the pads themselves glazing. Sometimes you can take the pads out and remove the glaze with a bit of steel wool by roughing up the surface (but usually if they're glazed, there toast and due for replacement). OR, that the springs themselves are defective in some sense (too weak with age, or one or more of them has snapped). OR, IF YOU ARE REALLY LUCKY (and it has both the right oil and a decent set of pads left with no glazing), it's just your clutch cable itself being both out of adjustment and sticking simulateneously, and replacing & adjusting the cable will fix it (about $25).
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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i use mobil 1 fully syn 10-40 on the bike. if thats wrong can someone tell me the right one to use?Comment
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If the bottle looks like this (Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40), then it's perfect:Originally posted by y2fat2furious
If the bottle looks like either of these (Mobil 1 car oils), then it's not:
The simplest way to know is to look for the API symbol on the back. It should say API SF SG or SH in the rating.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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thanx guysComment
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600boy, that was fine back when Mobil 1 first hit the market. More recently (since 2001 when API SJ was standardized), they have changed the formulations to comply with the API's latest specifications -- which are not compatible with Katana's or other wet-clutch motorcycle applications.Originally posted by 600boy
References for you to check out for yourself:
Mobil Clean 5000 (red cap) 10w40 is API SM/SL rated.;
You owner's manual (which specs API SF/SG for your Katana engine -- my guess is your GoldWing has a similar spec);
This KR thread where my questions to the API were answered, specifically saying API SJ, API SL and API SM, plus any oil marked "Energy Conserving" are not suitable for wet clutch motorcycle applications.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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yeah i just found the bottle and yeah im using the wrong oil
So whats a good brand of oil for my bike its a 88 with 20000.
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Any oil specifically marked API SF/SG -- and preferably marked JASO-MA as well (benefits you) -- in a 10w40. Since API SF/SG is obsolete in the car realms, normally only motorcycle-specific oils are still available in these ratings...Originally posted by y2fat2furiousyeah i just found the bottle and yeah im using the wrong oil So whats a good brand of oil for my bike its a 88 with 20000.
That list includes:
Castrol GPS (not GTX!)
Castrol ACT/Evo
Mobil 1 MX4T
Royal Purple CycleMax
Valvoline ATV
Valvoline Motorycle
Motorex
there are numerouos others.
If you're cost-conscious, I think Valvoline Motorcycle is the cheapest out of that list (some SuperWalmart stores. Royal Purple CycleMax is available via NAPA and PepBoys, but I don't know at what price-point (should be reasonable). Castrol's ACT/Evo is probably the cheapest you're likely to spot on a motorcycle shop's shelves (if there is a cycle-gear store in your area, they will carry a number of these oils).
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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