Need carb advice

[rome_rome]

I was cleaning my carbs awhile back and screwed up, put my emulsion tubes way too tight. here i am months later finnaly found some emulsion tubes, i put them in (hand tight this time haha) and still my bike will not run right.

symptoms: bike will turn on, if i play with my choke my rpm can shoot up to 5000 rpm and go down slowly i can get my bike to idle around 1000 rpm
as soon as i hit some gas, the bike dies.

any clue where to go from here? quick replies would be great, my bikes in a different province and im visiting to pick it up, i thought i would only need the tubes but i guess not.

[1990gsx 600]

umm well sounds like you have a lean idle circuit to me....so i would take the pilot jets out again and soak them for 24hours then blow out with compressed air.... my bike will do the same thing b ut i know my carbs need to be cleaned again

[rome_rome]

umm well sounds like you have a lean idle circuit to me....so i would take the pilot jets out again and soak them for 24hours then blow out with compressed air.... my bike will do the same thing b ut i know my carbs need to be cleaned again

my pilot was sitting over night and blown out with compressed air before this issue.

could a bent needle do this? the one that goes in the emulsion tubes

[Wolfe_UK]

Erm.. Last i checked you couldn't put emulsion tubes too tight because they just drop in and seat with a tap. They're shaped anyway to fit down the housing so you shouldn't have a problem there.
The hanging revs are caused by badly adjusted air/petrol mixtures Yes they sound like they're adjusted to be too lean but if the pilot jets are clean (Soaking them overnight not really necessary, best way i find is to blast through them with carb cleaner in short bursts. Gives better results than just soaking and not shifting the crap in them) then you'll be looking to fiddle with the A/F screw to sort it out. Go easy, quarter turns at a time. You'll crack it in the end.

Carbs 101 has a guide about how to access those if you have one of those foreign bikes that comes with brass plugs blocking them off.

[KAT TOY]

vacuum leaks also cause these symptoms

[akarob]

My advice to to use a .020 wire on the holes. It's basically in instant fix. Soak in Sea Foam or carb cleaner for an hour then use the wire. Just make sure it's .020" because that size fits with a couple thousanths clearance. Sync it afterwards and it'll run mint.

[rome_rome]

UPDATE:

Turns out my main jets were mixed up, i got them in there proper spots,
the pilots i re cleaned over night and sprayed them,
here is what happens now:
She runs better, idles, i can give it a LITTLE gas, too much gas it dies, it i throttle to 3000 rpm it will die, if i put full throttle it takes a couple seconds, the bike starts to die, rpm go up to around 3000 or less, then it dies.



so what's next?


EDIT: she idles good, stays around 1100 and +/-50
on a side not: i noticed my pilot jets had a small burn mark on them (small circle)
also: the reason i ripped the carb apart in the first part was bad fuel milage ( about 1/2 ), but engine wise the bike ran awesome before i touched the carbs


EDIT AGAIN: the bike has random flat spots now. i could be revving at it stops at 3000, any more gas it dies, sometimes 4000, more gas it dies. other times i can get it to rev to 6000 or red line . . .

[akarob]

Did you sync the carbs? How are the plugs?

Is your airbox on? No vacuum leaks?

[rome_rome]

Did you sync the carbs? How are the plugs?

Is your airbox on? No vacuum leaks?

i have not syched the cabrs yet, the plugs are good, the airbox is on, and i could not really find any leaks, i put wd-40 around all the intakes and spots that a online guide said to do, the engine didnt change from what i could tell

[Wild-Bill]

Let me get this straight:
Engine idles well.
Engine will not rev easily. Throttle has to be opened slowly or it dies.
Engine dies if rev'd to more than about 3000-4000 rpm and held there.

That sound right?
That sounds to me like the slides sticking or the needles are way off. Did you get the plastic washers on the needles before dropping them into the slides? If you pull the airbox you can lift the slides with your finger. Do they move smoothly and come back down slowly and smoothly?

[Wolfe_UK]

Let me get this straight:
Engine idles well.
Engine will not rev easily. Throttle has to be opened slowly or it dies.
Engine dies if rev'd to more than about 3000-4000 rpm and held there.

That sound right?
That sounds to me like the slides sticking or the needles are way off. Did you get the plastic washers on the needles before dropping them into the slides? If you pull the airbox you can lift the slides with your finger. Do they move smoothly and come back down slowly and smoothly?

+1 on check the slides
Also make sure your jets are screwed in tight enough and it's not drawing up too much fuel through the thread and flooding.

[1990gsx 600]

+1 on check the slides
Also make sure your jets are screwed in tight enough and it's not drawing up too much fuel through the thread and flooding.

+1 to what he said i think that this thread also solved my issue too

[rome_rome]

Let me get this straight:
Engine idles well.
Engine will not rev easily. Throttle has to be opened slowly or it dies.
Engine dies if rev'd to more than about 3000-4000 rpm and held there.

That sound right?
That sounds to me like the slides sticking or the needles are way off. Did you get the plastic washers on the needles before dropping them into the slides? If you pull the airbox you can lift the slides with your finger. Do they move smoothly and come back down slowly and smoothly?

pretty much you summed it up, just that oddly sometimes I CAN rev to redline.

as for the slides, they move u and down easily, and they where put together in the same fashion they were taken off.


as far as tightning the jets, how tight would one put them (putting them TOO tight is what caused this mess.)

[Wild-Bill]

I don't use a torque wrench or anything but I get them about as tight as I can get them without the screwdriver slipping and tearing a chunk out of my hand.

If they're in tight and the slides are moving freely (smooth up and slowly down) then the next thing I would do is check the needles. Pull them out the top of the slides and check that they're not bent (roll them on a flat surface and make sure they roll smoothly). You should have a small plastic washer under the c-clip and a big plastic disk riding on top of the c-clip, with the spring on top of it. If that's right then I'd suspect the tubes and needles of being worn. If that's the case then the inside of the tubes will be sorta oval. Best way to see this is to drop the needle into the tube (with both out of the carbs) and move the needle around. If it's round it'll be a smooth circle. If it's ovalized (I made that word up!) then you'll feel the needle jump a bit as it goes around in the tube.

[rome_rome]

I don't use a torque wrench or anything but I get them about as tight as I can get them without the screwdriver slipping and tearing a chunk out of my hand.

If they're in tight and the slides are moving freely (smooth up and slowly down) then the next thing I would do is check the needles. Pull them out the top of the slides and check that they're not bent (roll them on a flat surface and make sure they roll smoothly). You should have a small plastic washer under the c-clip and a big plastic disk riding on top of the c-clip, with the spring on top of it. If that's right then I'd suspect the tubes and needles of being worn. If that's the case then the inside of the tubes will be sorta oval. Best way to see this is to drop the needle into the tube (with both out of the carbs) and move the needle around. If it's round it'll be a smooth circle. If it's ovalized (I made that word up!) then you'll feel the needle jump a bit as it goes around in the tube.

i suspect this is correct, when i replaced my emulsion tubes it was because the originals where put back in too tight, so my guess is if the emulsion tube was warped you are correct the needle is bent, i shall check this out! thanks