[loudnlow7484]

I think I wasn't really clear with what I was saying before...... every time you hit the rev limiter, it's like you snapped the throttle completely shut. You absolutely, 100%, stop accelerating. If you're trying to ride "fast" then you should stay off the limiter. If you play it safe and short-shift into the next gear by 500 rpm or so, maybe you're accelerating at less than full potential, but it's not an absolute halt in acceleration. So in short, stay off the limiter, there is no reason to hit it.

On to the powerband thing....... I can't tell you where to shift, because I'm not Merlin and I won't try to be. If you check out some motorcycle rags, you'll find that they sometimes show a "thrust" graph, showing forward thrust at all revs in each gear. A lot of times, the end of second gear is below the equivalent speed in 3rd gear, and the same between 3rd and 4th, or 4th and 5th. In that case, what you'd want to do is shift exactly when they cross, so you are always maintaining maximum forward thrust. Now not all bikes are like that. If you have a top-end monster with no torque, you might find that you absolutely have to hold each gear for as long as you can, but I can pretty much guarantee that your average mostly-stock Katana is not that way.

[mammut89]

my post 750 pulls hard all the way, but at around 500rpm before redline you lose power, i shift right around 10.5k

same experience on my post 600.

[dieselguy65]

same here on my pre 600. nailing the throttle in any gear with it turning under 7K and you will feel the lag. do that with it sitting on 8k and you better be holding on tight. at any speed. but then again I tuned mine myself, made jets and needles. it surprises most anyone next to me when the light turns green. and you would swear it was a two stroke from the exhaust note. will it cause the engine to be shortened lifespan, probably. but redoing the engine is no big deal if your having fun riding in the meantime. at least that always been my opinion. everything i won gets run as hard as it will go. including my diesel truck with alomost 900K on it, and people will tell you they are not good for 100k

[Fastymz]

Thanks for the info!
I should have stated my question better from the start, it's not that I hit the limiter all the time. It's just once in while I'm looking for more power and once the rpm's gets over 9k it's a quick trip to 11k. I have drag raced hotrods for a long time and the bike is fast for what it is, just leaves me wanting more power now and then. I was more worried about the motor then learning how to shift. And yes I agree with you all 100% I should pay more attention to the where and when I shift.

[Free Coffee]

I worry more about staying smooth on the throttle and being in the appropriate gear than where it's making the most power. I guess if you're a bullet rider, like straight line- as fast as possible, it's not a big deal. I very seldom find myself over 8k though. For me, I don't want that much juice available to the rear wheel while I'm in a turn. But maybe that's just me.

[Kreylyn]

I worry more about staying smooth on the throttle and being in the appropriate gear than where it's making the most power. I guess if you're a bullet rider, like straight line- as fast as possible, it's not a big deal. I very seldom find myself over 8k though. For me, I don't want that much juice available to the rear wheel while I'm in a turn. But maybe that's just me.

Spirited curve riding on a Kat if your being agressive would put the RPM range 8-11k on a regular basis. Several things at this rpm...

1. Lot of engine braking to reduce heat/wear on your breaks since your doing alot of speed up and slow down with many curves.

2. The best acceleration when coming out of the curve to speed up as quickly as possible before the next braking point.

3. Much better throttle control available for you since a turn of the throttle either direction is much more dramatic... higher engine braking, higher engine go go output = alot easier to control the bike by just a slight adjustment of the wrist.

Remember that in an agressive approach on curves your slowing/braking at you approach the curve to reduce speed and set up the bike for entering the curve, then as you progress through it your slowly rolling on the throttle to increase your speed as you come out to the point of full throttle on the other side or close too it. It's not about too much power (Kat isn't going to make too much power).. It's about throttle control and responsiveness.

Straight roads... Other than a short burst or a fast take off... I dont' really see a reason for doing that much as your not slowing and speeding back up repetatively. Maybe on passing a car, dropping gears till you hit the 8k range, throttle around them... then gear back up to cruising.

Krey

[RebornKat02]

Yeah I was thinking that same thing krey. If your power band is FALLING @ 8.5k you need to do some tweeking. Check your plug wires and what not. But yeah don't be bouncing off the rev limiter. At least not until your in 6th @ least cause it slows you down. Just before, not at. If you don't believe it run to the track. Your eta's will improve greatly if you stay of the bouncy part of the tach.