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Ok..... one more time...... get the coil tested.......both leads.
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sigpicLife throws you curves......enjoy the ones you get when riding.
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89 GSX750F(sold....sob)
96 YZF 1000R -
The bike is a '99 with 17k on it. I will first do the carb. I could not take it apart last night because my small screw for the jets broe apart. It was one of those cheap really small screwdrivers. I am going to pick up a new and better made one and soak the whole thing, look at every hole, and put back together again. If that doesn't fix it, I will switch the coils or have them tested. I don't think it could be coils, though. The more you guys say its the carbs, the more I believe it. The plugs are black on the dead cylinder. The cylinder is running very rich. That made me think it was the carbs and I cleaned them. I must not have been very thorough. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will post on Tuesday to let you guys know how it turned out. I will soak it tonight for 24 hours.Comment
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if you can't get the pilot jet out, take a piece of stiff nylon wire or heavy fishing line and run it thru the passages. I usually strip a piece of garbage bag ties to clean mine but that can enlarge the pilot hole. Everyone has their preference on what to use.Comment
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Ok, the bike is running on all fours. I soaked it in cleaner after rmoving all the jet and other very small parts. I meesed around with the sync screws for the carb. The screws are turned most of the way out. The bike is idling too high. Should I adjust them all clock-wise or counter clock-wise. I think the screws are turned so much that the idle adjustment can't change the idle much. The idle is around 3k. I turned the needle enough to get it 2500, but I now I messed with the screws too much. I really don't want to take the fairings off and look at the carb again, yet. I am taking to my mechanic to fine tune the carbs and look for any problems. I just would like to idle closer to 1100-1300. Should I turn all the carb screws out or in. I know they have to be all the same.
In case I haven't said it enough, THANK YOU. You guys saved me money and a headache.Comment
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You are talking about the carb synch and not the a/f screws right? You can't guess on the synch, you need a manometer to measure the vacuum.Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.htmlComment
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I know it has to set right. My mechanic will do all that. I just need to have rev a little lower so I can ride it about a half hour away to the shop. And yes, I am talking about syncing it. I have not touched the a/f screws. I just need to roughly adjust it, so he can sync it properly. I know the idle adjustment is influenced by the middle screw. I just can't remember if turning it in lowers my idle or raises it. I really don't want to tae the carbs out to sync it properly. He is going to take them out anyway. Taking the tank out to reach the sync screws takes only four screws. I know the right way is take the whole carb out and line it up with the holes.Comment
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Turning lefty lucy will decrease the idle on all bolts. The correct way to synch is LEAVE them on the bike because it has to be running to adjust.Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.htmlComment
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Did you clean this plug after you stripped the carbs. My 1100 wouldnt run for a week after stripping down the carbs replacing plug wires checked the plugs they were firing but appeared to be firing to the sides not to the tip. blasted them with baking soda put em in and fired right up.Originally posted by newkatbie View PostComment
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I cleaned the carbon off with gas from the plugs. They fired up perfectly. The bike runs, but it idles around 2500 after it is warm. I think there is a leak and the carb sync might be to blame (the handle bars make my hands numb). I was supposed to bring it to the mechanic this weekend, but I will do that next week now. I think there could also be something in the fuel line or tank that is blocking the idle jets over and over. The mechanic will look at that. He is thorough and he works for my dad and his bike is immaculate. I trust his work. The minor problems will be fixed by him and i will watch. I will post the problems I find for others to reference. Thanks to all those that helped!Comment
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Make sure you dont have ANY rust in your tank, tiny amounts will plug it up.Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.htmlComment
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I've looked inside the tank and there is a very slight yellow color. I think that is normal. I could not see or feel any rust other than one spot with a round spot smaller than a pencil eraser. It might be time to protect the tank. Never done this before. Any suggestions? Brands? How tos? I really have no idea how to do this; I just know it can be done.Comment
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Just a question... How easy it is to destroy the piston rings when you have a fuel flood caused by the leaking float valves? I mean... I tried to start my bike for quite a bit... It was even running (on 3 out of 4 but running) before I realized that I have a flood (big time). I had a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and the engine case breather (when disconnected from the airbox) and I am wondering if I could cause a lot of damage forcing the bike to run with gasoline mixed with oil...Fast bike [x]
Fast rider [?]Comment
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Sounds like a valve clearance issue to me also, there is only few ways to blow are threw the carb backwards, valve clearance too tight, valve seat or valve damage (burnt, cracked or bent), or cam not installed correctly, since it's only one cylinder i would rule that out."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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White smoke isn't burning oil or burning fuel. It's condensation. Unless the smoke was blue you weren't burning oil.
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