Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

89 Katana will start but revs to 10k rpm!!!

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 89 Katana will start but revs to 10k rpm!!!

    Ok so I put a stage three jet kit in the bike. This went against everything I ahve read here but that is besides the point! It was on ebay for 80 bucks and I got the K&N filters with it. Originally I was just going to put the filters on but thoguht what the shinto lets just see waht happens first. So when I start the bike it rockets up to 10k rpm and I have to shut her down immediately. It is not the throttle cable. The choke cable is stuck but it is in the off position and the rail is slid all the way over to the right so I don't believe this has anything to do with it.

    So any thoughts might be helpful at this point? I am totally bummed and kicking my own arse for f-in with it right now as she was running before this. Not great, but at least I could ride her you know.
    89' Katana 600

  • #2
    Rev'ving to past 5k at idle (no input) is virtually always a vacuum leak at one of the boots to the carbs or between the carbs and the engine. Rev'ing to 10k is usually a combo of an overly rich mix and the vacuum leak mentioned above.

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

    Comment


    • #3
      Well I should have known it would be the Cyber poet to reply

      You are a good man sir.

      So do you think I should try to go down a few sizes for the main jets?

      Would turning the A/F mixture screw in or out lean the mixture?

      How would one go about checking for a vacuum leak?


      I do have a Clymer manual, but a heads up may help me comprehend it a little better before I go searching through that book. I am really good at fixing things that I know nothing about, I just need to be pointed in the right direction.
      89' Katana 600

      Comment


      • #4
        I personally detest pods and the tuning nightmares they induce, plus I've never had a pre-98, so my advice is to seek someone else out that has the same set-up that you're trying to reach and see what particular configuration has been working for them (start there -- and remember that you will probably still have to tweak it afterwards unless you are using the same brand of aftermarket exhaust headers, same muffler and live at the same altitude with approximately the same ambient temps & humidity).

        Sorry I couldn't give you a better answer, but I definitely don't want to steer you wrong. You might also want to check the carb tuning pages at factorypro.com and at DynoJet.

        Cheers
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for your quick responses cyber.

          I think that I will try to go back to the orig. config. that was working before and see if that will resolve this issue. If not, well than back to the drawing board I guess. The main reason behind the change was because the stock airbox is a total pain in the arse to deal with. I hoped the pods would be easier to work with while tinkering on her. I kid you not that thing is stuck in there like a snare drum. And getting those damn tubes from the airbox on to the carbs well that about drove me crazy in the 105 degree heat. I'm mad I tell you, mad. Turning all those screws and what not, it was really driving me nuts!!! Will post up when I get to it on Monday.

          Thanks,
          89' Katana 600

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Cbass
            The main reason behind the change was because the stock airbox is a total pain in the arse to deal with.
            I found that the simplest way to get the airbox velocity stacks (rubber boots) onto the carbs is to put the carbs in place, then with the velocity stacks on the airbox, put the airbox into place and bolt the airbox down. The force of the airbox in position pushes forward on the velocity stacks, so all I have to do is nudge them a little and tighten them down... But I will admit that I'm not dealing with a 17 year old bike either... Maybe you should break down and order some new velocity stacks that are still maliable and pliant to work with instead ?

            Cheers
            =-= The CyberPoet
            Remember The CyberPoet

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by The CyberPoet
              I personally detest pods and the tuning nightmares they induce, plus I've never had a pre-98, so my advice is to seek someone else out that has the same set-up that you're trying to reach and see what particular configuration has been working for them (start there -- and remember that you will probably still have to tweak it afterwards unless you are using the same brand of aftermarket exhaust headers, same muffler and live at the same altitude with approximately the same ambient temps & humidity).


              Cheers
              =-= The CyberPoet
              tuning with the pods aint bad well for me it aint i jsut seem to have a knack for tuning pods but they are tricky sometimes but once you get everything set the run like nothing else

              Comment

              Working...
              X