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Crack!! Is it fixable??

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  • Crack!! Is it fixable??

    Can I put jb weld or something like that on this peice? I used someone elses bike because I didn't have a camera handy. Anyway, where the arrow is pointing to, I have a crack. NOT ON THE COVER! THE CRACK IS ON THE ACTUALLY CASE RIGHT BELOW WHERE THE SCREW THAT THE ARROW IS POINTING TO! It is about 1 inch or 2.54 cm back. I wanted to know if I could use clamps to hold it in the right spot and use JB Kwik or something like it to fix it? If it would help to get pics, I will try to do so tomorrow. Thanks
    Attached Files

  • #2
    If the crack is on the engine block (i.e. - not the covers), then it really needs to be addressed with a proper fix (probably a bit of aluminum TIG welding and subsequent retapping). I wouldn't use anything on it that might later infere with properly fixing it (i.e. - I wouldn't use JBWeld on it because it would compromise the future correct fix; if you go the epoxy route, use something harder that's rated for at least continuous 500 degrees temps).
    I would expect a weld-fix wouldn't be too expensive there if you pre-strip the bike down (fairings off, covers off, oil out, tank off and trailer it over to a welding shop or buddy who does good quality TIG work with aluminum) because I don't think the whole engine needs to come out to get at the spot... but not seeing it in detail, I could be wrong.

    Did you also crack the cover?
    Are you ok? (it takes a lot of force to break that part)
    How did it happen?

    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet


    • #3
      I would be leery about welding the case. If you go that route you need to make sure that you find a welder that is experienced with welding aluminum castings because they can be tricky. A poor weld could cause more problems then were there to start with. The part really should be removed from the bike to be properly cleaned before welding. Cast aluminum is slightly porous so to make sure that you get all of the oil out of the material before you weld it. Is the crack on the outside of the bolt hole? Is it a result of over torquing the bolt?


      • #4
        Here are some Pics!

        I found a professional welder that one of my dad's friends knows. He has been riding bikes for 20 or 30 years and recomended this guy who has been welding for about the same time. I am going to take the bike to him today! Hopefully it can be done!

        if you look at the first pic you can see that the crack goes in the back. The crack is like it is taking off a square chunk almost.

        it starts above the bolt hole, goes back, left, then down, back right, then comes out under the bolt. The crack does not go all the way to the back. There is some peice that is sticking at about 2-3 inches from the opening.


        • #5
          So can you actually pull that piece out away from the case?


          • #6
            Does anyone know how to get this off? The guy who can weld the crack for me said if I can get that off he could weld it for about $30. I was excited to hear that. I also trust him because of his experience and the people that refered me to him.

            I just need to get the wheels off. The big sprocket looking thing.


            • #7
              Apparently you'll need a "rotor remover" (special tool ) to get that out . Or so says my Clymer manual .
              I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !

              Katrider's rally 2011 - md86


              • #8
                If it is just talking about a pully puller, you may be able to retn one at a auto shop like Checker (Kragens) or something. You can rent automotive tools at a lot of the auto parts stores around me.
                -89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
                -Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
                -Ohlins Susupension
                -Various Other Mods


                • #9
                  Well, thanks for the help. I just got back from Florida. Helped a buddy move some stuff back here to Illinois. Now I will start my search for a "pulley puller" Will this tool just grab on to the three holes in the middle?


                  • #10
                    Best of luck. Some of the welders out there can do wonders. Keep the faith.
                    Ride On,


                    • #11
                      THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!!! My bike is now running. I just have to put everything back together. It started right up. I wish I would have taken pics of the weld for you guys to see. It looks awesome. He even ground it down and made it look good. It is not perfect but it looks damn good. It even holds the seal so far. Thanks for telling me about the pulley puller, I have never heard of that. Auto Zone had one though. Rented it for FREE, well deposit, but I get the money back. Thanks again. I will be on the rode again tomorrow.
                      Now the question, been shut don for a month. Other than running carb cleaner through it, should I do anything else??????? Should I put the whole bottle of carb cleaner through even though it is for 16 gallons I think? Thanks again. Without this site I don't know what I would do, actually I do, I would be paying dealers. No offense to anyone who works at a dealer here or is a dealer.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by katlover
                        Now the question, been shut don for a month. Other than running carb cleaner through it, should I do anything else??????? Should I put the whole bottle of carb cleaner through even though it is for 16 gallons I think?
                        (A) Charge up the battery if you have a battery charger. It may have gone dead over the month, and is probably low even if it isn't dead. You might find disconnecting the headlight temporarily until she's running could help, in case you run into problems (helps reduce the drain on the battery).

                        (B) No, don't use the carb cleaner in stronger-than-recommended amounts.

                        (C) I would suggest you disconnect the fuel line hose going to the carbs at the petcock, replace it with a spare bit of fuel line running into a glass container (spaghetti jar, etc), and drain out at least a cup of gas by rotating the fuel selector to PRIME (rotate back to ON or RES to shut off the flow). If what's in the cup looks good, fine -- just top off with some new gas; if you find water or rust or sediment, drain all the fuel (treat for rust as necessary), and start with new fuel before starting the bike. Don't forget to reconnect the other fuel line!

                        (D) Finally, when it's time to start her up again, switch the fuel selector to PRIME for 60 seconds, then back to "ON" before starting the bike. This will flow fresh fuel into the carbs to refill them from any fuel that has evaporated during the past month.

                        =-= The CyberPoet
                        Remember The CyberPoet


                        • #13
                          Thanks! I'll get that done tomorrow. I just finished polishing her. Figured I'd wait one more day to take the ride during daylight.


                          • #14
                            Congrats on getting the case fixed and good luck with getting back on the road.


                            • #15
                              ok, I have been busy with school and haven't had much time to work on my bike. Here is what has been going on. I rode it in a toy run with some buddies and there was a slight leak, so when I go thome I thought I would try to isolate the leak. Well, I found two spots. One was coming out of the gasket, which I can fix that, and the other was coming out of a bolt. So, I though I would try to tighten the bolt a little. Well, the bolt snapped. Now I need a replacement. I can't get to a photshop right now to draw an arrow to the bolt that smapped, but it is a bolt that goes upward. It is on the right side of the crack. I beleive it is to help hold the crank cases together. Again it screws in upward and it is on the right side of the crack in the pick. If someone could help me find a replacement bolt I would be greatly appreciative. I looked at microfiche, but I didn't see that specific bolt. Thanks.