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I Have a 1989 Katana 600. Every single time i pull out my spark plugs they are black as night. I just synch my carbs for the first time but i dont think that has anything to do with it because they are all equally as black. The bike runs good so i dont understand. I know the plugs should be tan so this makes no sense to me. ........Is it maybe the float hight? Any idea's would be great!
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Dude, this is your 6th thread about the SAME PROBLEM. Please, reuse your other threads.
You are running excesively rich. Excessive richness may cause:- Hesitation
- RPMs hanging when returning to idle
- blackened plugs
- black smoke
- backfiring and/or flames
- runs fine when cold but gets worse as it heats up
Depending on where in the RPM range and throttle position you are, it can be one, more, or all of:- main jets
- needles
- float height
- pilot jets
Your best bet would be to bring it to someone with a dyno and let them tune it for you. Otherwise, that link md86 posted shows the tuning procedure.
/kibafind / -name "*your base*" -exec chown us:us {} \;
You must realize that someday you will die-until you know that, you are useless
If you can't make it fit with a sledge hammer, don't force it!
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NGK Spark Plugs - Plug Chart (how to read plugs)RIDE PROFILE-MODS: Just Pods. Trying to get good gas milage.
IMHO:Originally posted by kiba
(A) Scrap the pods. Return to stock air box & filter. For reliability, always return to stock.
(B) Go see a shop with an exhaust analyzer (all dyno machines normally have one). Let them tune it. Depending on the condition of the carbs and their subcomponents, you may find the carbs are beyond being able to be tuned in correctly (as was the case with my gf's Ninja 500 -- after 5k miles, the carbs had gone to crap & no amount of cleaning & new jets was going to fix it). If the plug chart above shows that you have wet carbon fouling or oil fouling, have the shop do a leak-down pressure test as well (you may find the rings are bad).
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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100% correct!Originally posted by kiba
Doubledscar, I know your just desperately trying to find an answer to solve your carb problem but starting multiple threads about it and just simply rewording the question will not get you that. In fact it will get you the exact opposite which is no help at all because people will get real tired, real quick of it and won't answer at all anymore.
I've deleted the other threads. We get that you have hesitation in the upper range and carb problems. Please post your problems and solutions that you have tried in this thread only and keep it running. By doing it that way a few things will happen. 1) you will have a running log of what has been done so far so that someone just coming into the problem won't be suggesting something that has already been done. 2) you won't have to go searching through all the threads you've started to find an answer that you need to reference. 3) you won't turn other members off to helping you because they don't believe you are paying any attention to the advice being given.Comment
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Well thank you guys. The reason i kept re-posting differant ways was because nobody was replying. This is the first time more than one person has actually replied. and thats what it took.Comment
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Were my replies not helpful ? I believe I replied to just about EVERY carb post you made . And since I can field strip my carbs in a parking lot in less time than it takes for some people to get their fairings off , I think that qualifies me to be at least semi-knowledgable ....I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !
Katrider's rally 2011 - md86
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Well, that is a more extreme (aka, annoying) way to do it. A less obtrusive method would be to *bump* your own thread, but I would even use that sparingly. Just FYIOriginally posted by doubledscar"Pleasant experiences make life enjoyable, painful experiences lead to growth" - cheap Chinese fortune cookieComment
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