So Teddy and I decided to look inside oil filters.. Right Teddy?
Oil filters are pretty important and there is some data on other sites:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html (Thanks Wild Bill)
http://maximum-suzuki.com/html/revie...ilfilters.html (Thanks Mick M)
http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles...520exposed.pdf (Thanks Katman05)
http://www.hsperformanceparts.com/ (Thanks Gytrdunkat)
Teddy is very experienced in the parts world as well as a long time member here and someone I trust..
I have 25 odd years (some more odd than others) in engineering, research and development, part testing, wrenching and over all wise-guyery..
Sure the above web sites have done, or claimed to have done this. But some of that information Pre-dates Katriders. Some filters may have gotten better, some may have gotten worse. None of the websites have very good pictures. Besides, who are you going to trust? Some faceless impersonal website, or Teddy and I?!?!? Besides, we get to break stuff and then show it off..
Here is how an oil filter works:
Oil enters the filter housing through the outside ring (the series of holes seen in pic #3).
The oil gets filtered by the element (green part) then leaves through the center hole.
If the element gets clogged the over pressure bypass opens (black plug at the top) allowing dirty oil to bypass the filter.
Dirty oil is better than no oil. The element is sealed at the top and bottom by the (blue) element seals. These are important as you don't want oil to bypass the filter unless it is clogged. The quality of the sealing parts as well as the spring pressure of the bypass are worth noting..
Pic #1 I have this Fram filter I paid under $3 for at Wally-World..
Sorry, time for a new camera I think...
Pic #3 Here is the business end:
Pic #4 It was remarkably easy to open..
We'll be back with more after this commercial break...
OK welcome back. Let's continue our dissection of oil filters..
Pic #5 Once I cut the rim off with tin snips:
Pic # 6 It was easy to get to the guts:
Pic #7 I'm not liking what I'm seeing... This piece looks nice, sturdy, well welded, but what is all that dusty stuff?
Mmmmm paper.. and lots of it. The pleating is glued to the ends.
Doesn't look too sturdy,
I might try and heat some oil, just to see if the rumor this glue lets go at the same temp as the oil in our bikes could get (200 degrees+)..
But that is for a later day..
NOTES:
While the exterior, the "can" the flange and the main seal, all look very good as well as the bottom element seal (large rubber flange in pic #7). The most important part, the filter element, is crap. The blow by assembly is a bit suspect, there is no rubber seal and the spring is pretty stiff. Either the blow by isn't going to be effective or the lack of a seal will allow oil to bypass the filter element. Also the element ends are paper so the effectiveness of the top and bottom seals is suspect. Dirty oil could get past these seal areas pretty easily in my opinion.
After I drain the Kat I'll dissect the one I have on it.
Oil filters are pretty important and there is some data on other sites:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html (Thanks Wild Bill)
http://maximum-suzuki.com/html/revie...ilfilters.html (Thanks Mick M)
http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles...520exposed.pdf (Thanks Katman05)
http://www.hsperformanceparts.com/ (Thanks Gytrdunkat)
Teddy is very experienced in the parts world as well as a long time member here and someone I trust..
I have 25 odd years (some more odd than others) in engineering, research and development, part testing, wrenching and over all wise-guyery..
Sure the above web sites have done, or claimed to have done this. But some of that information Pre-dates Katriders. Some filters may have gotten better, some may have gotten worse. None of the websites have very good pictures. Besides, who are you going to trust? Some faceless impersonal website, or Teddy and I?!?!? Besides, we get to break stuff and then show it off..
Here is how an oil filter works:
Oil enters the filter housing through the outside ring (the series of holes seen in pic #3).
The oil gets filtered by the element (green part) then leaves through the center hole.
If the element gets clogged the over pressure bypass opens (black plug at the top) allowing dirty oil to bypass the filter.
Dirty oil is better than no oil. The element is sealed at the top and bottom by the (blue) element seals. These are important as you don't want oil to bypass the filter unless it is clogged. The quality of the sealing parts as well as the spring pressure of the bypass are worth noting..
Pic #1 I have this Fram filter I paid under $3 for at Wally-World..
Sorry, time for a new camera I think...
Pic #3 Here is the business end:
Pic #4 It was remarkably easy to open..
We'll be back with more after this commercial break...
OK welcome back. Let's continue our dissection of oil filters..
Pic #5 Once I cut the rim off with tin snips:
Pic # 6 It was easy to get to the guts:
Pic #7 I'm not liking what I'm seeing... This piece looks nice, sturdy, well welded, but what is all that dusty stuff?
Mmmmm paper.. and lots of it. The pleating is glued to the ends.
Doesn't look too sturdy,
I might try and heat some oil, just to see if the rumor this glue lets go at the same temp as the oil in our bikes could get (200 degrees+)..
But that is for a later day..
NOTES:
While the exterior, the "can" the flange and the main seal, all look very good as well as the bottom element seal (large rubber flange in pic #7). The most important part, the filter element, is crap. The blow by assembly is a bit suspect, there is no rubber seal and the spring is pretty stiff. Either the blow by isn't going to be effective or the lack of a seal will allow oil to bypass the filter element. Also the element ends are paper so the effectiveness of the top and bottom seals is suspect. Dirty oil could get past these seal areas pretty easily in my opinion.
After I drain the Kat I'll dissect the one I have on it.
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