Ad Widget



No announcement yet.

old problem back again...

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • old problem back again...

    Hi all,

    I thought I fixed my old problem stated on the thread below by replacing the damage sparkplug cap with a new one, all new sparkplugs (the old sparkplug was correct by the way), installing new air filter and fuel filter, new Mobil 1 10w40 sysnthetic motorcycle oil and following cyberpoet tips on using the choke only for about 30 seconds and use the throttle if needed to warm up the bike but the this week the problem again shows up.
    Whenever I let the bike sit for over 2 days thats when the problem appears but if it only sit overnight the problem never comes up. I thought its the battery that maybe its draining out and when I ride it everyday it have a chance to recharge itself or no chance to discharge at all compared to being let it sit for over 2 days but I checked again today after letting the bike sit over 2 days and the battery readings is still 12.50 volts using a multimeter with the engine running it reads 14.5 volts, I even test the battery leackage by using the MM in between the + battery cable and the + battery post and the reading were 0000 or 0001 amps or 00.00 -00.01 miliamps intermetently so I think its ok, I also took off the positive battery cable while its running to check if the alternator is ok and the bike didn't die so I gues the alternator is ok too. I thought maybe the fuel in the float bowls are evaporating but I did follow cyberpoet tip to put it in prime for a few seconds to refill the bowl but to no effect, and while its running I even put it on prime to see if the problem goes away but it isn't. Tomorrow I'm planning to check the plugs again and do the test on the coils, is there anything else I should check.
    To summarize when the bike sits for over 2 days my bike seems like its running on 3 cylinder (sounds like tsug tsug tsug like a train if I open the throtle) , it surge,hesitant even with the throttle open sounds like theres no gas on accelaration but above 3000 rpm its normal and it just die down if I don't hold the throttle on everystop, But the next day and day afater that (meaning if it only sits overnight) the problem never exist.


  • #2
    I should know this, as I work with electronics, but if you put the MM in the circuit and there is no Amperage that is bad.

    Somebody correct me if I am I wrong

    This is how you test for the amps on a circuit I thought.

    Is this the original battery? Second battery?

    Obviously you keep having this prob so maybe you should just spend the bones and change the damn battery and see if it stops?

    My jeep had battery trouble the other day. I would start it and then it would die right away. Before I could even shift gears and take off. Everyone told me it was not the battery or it would not even start. Anyhow I hit it with the MM and it read 13V. I was like f&*^!! This may get expensive. Nope 40 dollar battery at walmart and all was right with the world again.
    89' Katana 600


    • #3
      Well I decided to take the battery to a motorcycle shop and have it checked and it came out very week and need to be replaced. I bought a new one and its connected to a battery tender junior right now but I'm wondering after only a few minutes the light on the battery charger turns to green already indicating its fully charge and its on a float mode is this normal? I decided to just let leave it alone and have it connected to the charger until about 10 hours even though the indicator is green.

      Hopefully this fix my problem (I think so) my suspect was the battery to start with but I thought by using a MM and having a reading of 12.5 volts that's its ok, guess not. Even the shop says the way they check the battery is putting it on a unit that tells them if its bad (through color inidicator) and not through voltage reading.


      • #4
        Originally posted by KatanaDeckpi
        Hopefully this fix my problem (I think so) my suspect was the battery to start with but I thought by using a MM and having a reading of 12.5 volts that's its ok, guess not.
        12.5 volts is normally on the borderline of defective (12.7 to 13.1 for a charged battery is right). The at home test would have been to charge the battery up, check it as soon as you disconnected the charger, and then without reinstalling it, recheck it 6 or more hours later -- if the voltage dropped at all, then the battery is on it's way out or is already defective.

        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet


        • #5
          OK this really is not good After replacing the battery I still have the same problem so I did the test on the igniton coils and below are the readings I got.

          Left side ignitoin coil
          Primary winding resistance = 3.1 ohms (good)
          Secondary winding resistance with cap on = 33.59 Kohms (good)
          Secondary winding resistance without cap = 15.20 Kohms (bad)
          #1 sparkplug cap = 9.18 Kohms (good or bad?)
          #4* sparkplug cap = 9.28 Kohms (good or bad?)

          Right side ignition coil

          Primary winding resistance = 3.2 ohms
          Secondary winding resistance with cap on = 37.09
          Secondary winding resistance without cap = 14.79 Kohms
          #2 sparkplug cap = 9.11Kohms
          #3 sparkplug cap = 9.98 Kohms

          So according to the service manual my test on secondary witout the cap is actually bad way below the specs should be 25 - 35 Kohms)
          and the sparkplug cap are bad too (should be approximately 5Kohms) but even the new sparkplug cap on the dealership I tested reads about 9.99 kohms so I wonder why the service manual says it should be approximately 5 Kohms.

          Also I brought both the coils to the dealership and they did test them and they say the coils are good ( the test was on the machine that test the spark while the coils are hook up they say it gave them good spark even with a 8 mm gap) They don't advice me to replace the coils because they say its good so now I'm really confused because my test on the secondary winding resistance were lower than the specs from the manual but the dealer test are ok. should I just go ahead and replace both the coils anyway? I really don't want to do that and found out later on that it didn't fix problem because theyre expensive($90 each)

          What do you guys think?


          • #6
            I think you should contact SpecialK and ask him to send you two known good coils.

            =-= The CyberPoet
            Remember The CyberPoet


            • #7
              PM sent!

              Yep..............sounds like bad coils!

              I have about 4-6 sets here, so I can pick you out a good set and bench test them before I send them out..........
              I've owned over 70 Katanas - you think I know anything about them?
              Is there such a thing as TOO MANY BIKES?
              Can you go TOO FAST on a bike?
              Welcome to! Click here to register


              • #8
                Sounds Good Special K, also I pmed you.