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Gas cap wouldn't open

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  • #16
    Originally posted by KenRocks View Post
    I may be misreading, but you got the lock off of the tank without actually being able to open it? How?
    I was able to turn the key 45 degrees, so the catches are partially retracted at that point. I'm not sure if this is necessary.

    What was definitely important is that once the bolts are removed, the ring around the gas cap can rotate in place. If you look, the hole for the cap is not actually centered, so when you rotate the whole thing (ring and all), the catches may not actually extend under the lip of the hole in the tank. Once one side pops free, some more finagling will get the other side free.

    I don't know if having the catches partially retracted is necessary to get this process started.

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    • #17
      Ah, ok. I got my first kat a few weeks ago, which is coincidentally also my first restoration project. For whatever reason, the tank won't open so I was thinking Id drill the lock out in the next week or two. I have another lock, and I'd be fine with using that one, I just didnt think I could get the first one off without actually opening it first. I'll give the spinning it thing a try...

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      • #18
        Originally posted by KenRocks View Post
        Ah, ok. I got my first kat a few weeks ago, which is coincidentally also my first restoration project. For whatever reason, the tank won't open so I was thinking Id drill the lock out in the next week or two. I have another lock, and I'd be fine with using that one, I just didnt think I could get the first one off without actually opening it first. I'll give the spinning it thing a try...

        Remove the tank entirely, and you can access from the bottom through the fuel level sensor hole. It would be possible to open it from that way by simply using a pry bar to push in the latch levers. This will allow for removal without having to possibly dmg anything by using a drill.

        or you could just have a locksmith make you a new set of keys.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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        • #19
          I used to open my old tank with a screwdriver. I just hammered a flat blade down into the hole, and used a crescent wrench to turn it until it broke the lock. After that, I could open and close it with a screwdriver. You'd want to clean out the broken parts, though, or they will occasionally catch something and bind up the lock, requiring a lot of wiggling or a lot of force to get it moving again.
          Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.

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          • #20
            Well, I figured now would be a good time to put a little steel ball bearing under the keyhole flap since I lost it when I took it apart, and I tried taking the cap off without the key. I wasn't quite able to do it. With the cap and ring rotated a full 180, it seemed like the catch facing the front of the bike was close, but not quite free. Put the key in and turned it just a bit and the whole thing popped right out.

            The catches don't seem to push in, so trying to push them in with a pry bar without the key may not work.

            I'd still try give turning the cap 180 and giving it a good jiggle of the key, maybe it'll be enough to come free.

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            • #21
              The locksmith thing is an option, Im just cheap. I don't really mind opening it with a screwdriver, though Id prefer the key.

              The humor of the thing is that if I use the key that came with this bike to remove the seat, it works perfectly. For the ignition it works...but I kinda have to wiggle it and whatnot for a little bit. For the tank...it goes in about halfway (around to where the notches stop...I think thats as far as its supposed to) and won't turn at all. No wiggle, no nothing. I sprayed WD-40 in there and tried for awhile...no movement at all. Finally quit because I was afraid Id break the key off if I tried any harder.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by paul.miner View Post
                Well, I figured now would be a good time to put a little steel ball bearing under the keyhole flap since I lost it when I took it apart, and I tried taking the cap off without the key. I wasn't quite able to do it. With the cap and ring rotated a full 180, it seemed like the catch facing the front of the bike was close, but not quite free. Put the key in and turned it just a bit and the whole thing popped right out.

                The catches don't seem to push in, so trying to push them in with a pry bar without the key may not work.

                I'd still try give turning the cap 180 and giving it a good jiggle of the key, maybe it'll be enough to come free.
                That's exacly what I had to do twice. Once when I got the bike and another time when I let it sit for a while. All I did was use the key, partially retract the latches and from the fuel level sensor hole, used a pry bar to retract the latches until they went all the way in. I kinda screwed up the hole where the latches catch, but it still works. And it true if one side pops out, the other will too. I just happened to learn this by using elbow grease.
                Captain of Squad 11

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