Oil filter - need help

[nurider]

Ok, I feel like a goof. Now that that's out of the way .....

Drained the oil first. Then realized the oil filter I picked up at Pep Boys is slightly different to the OEM filter; the one from Pep Boys does not have a screw head on the top of the filter. Does it matter? Should I stick to to a Suzuki filter?

The one other problem I see is that the filter is hard to get to, and it will be hard to fit the strap wrench I have. It would be relatively easy to use a socket wrench on a filter with the screw on top.

Also, how important is it to tighten the drain plug to 16.5 ft lbs? No flames, please. (I have yet to strip any bolts on my cars, etc., by overtightening them.)

[md86]

Well , there are different oil filters , some with a nut on top , some without . As long as it doesn't say "Fram" on it , it's probably not all that bad : . I usually just put mine on hand tight (using a leather work glove) , and they stay just fine . Makes getting them off a little easier , too . Mine DID shake loose a bit at the rally just enough to drip slowly , but by that time , it'd been on there for a couple of oil changes (I'm going to pick up some new ones tomorrow) . That's why I like the K&N filters . They have a nut on top to make it a little easier to deal with .

[The CyberPoet]

I'm a stickler for using the OEM filters myself (Toyo Roki makes them for Suzuki, top-notch quality) -- the same end-cap wrench fits everytime, and if I'm out on the road, I know they're rated for 3 oil-changes aka 11k miles (changing the filter isn't always as convenient on cross-country road trips as changing oil is with the fumoto oil drain valve). As long as you have the stock headers, the filter can come out between the down-tubes for cylinders 2&3; some aftermarket exhaust headers do not have sufficient space left to do that. That said, there are other filters that are quite reasonably good, and I'm with MD86 on this -- NO FRAM!

Finally, the OEM spec for the oil filter is barely touching at the seal plus two full rotations; if the last filter was on there to spec, it may be why it was/is so difficult to remove. Many tricks work to get it off if you don't have the end-cap wrench, including strap wrench, large circular vice grips, chain-wrench, or plain old screwdriver driven through the filter (this is a last resort).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[nurider]

The local stealership has the OEM filters in stock, $10.67 each.
(part no. 16510-03G00-X-07!!!) 8)

Life is good again.

Thanks, guys.

[Süsser Tod]

Well , there are different oil filters , some with a nut on top , some without . As long as it doesn't say "Fram" on it , it's probably not all that bad : . I usually just put mine on hand tight (using a leather work glove) , and they stay just fine . Makes getting them off a little easier , too . Mine DID shake loose a bit at the rally just enough to drip slowly , but by that time , it'd been on there for a couple of oil changes (I'm going to pick up some new ones tomorrow) . That's why I like the K&N filters . They have a nut on top to make it a little easier to deal with .

Oh man...

If I told you that the Fram filters are the "higest quality" filters I can get for my Katana around here...

No, seriously, if you don't buy the Fram, the other option is an unknown brand Korean filter. I know the Frams are known to be crap, don't want to try the korean one just to blow the engine and realize that there is something crappier than fram filters out there.

Oh, and $ 8 for the Fram filter... (I can get a VW/Audi original filter for less than that!)


Well, the lack of good filters is the only thing stopping me from running synthetic oil on my Kat, don't want to be dumping good oil everytime I replace the cheap filter. So by now I will stick to Castrol oil.

[The CyberPoet]

If I told you that the Fram filters are the "higest quality" filters I can get for my Katana around here...

Then I would say that I (and a number of other people around here) would be happy to ship you the OEM filter at our cost. As long as NuRider is headed for the dealership, maybe you can send him a paypal payment and get him to send you a couple extras

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[SweetLou]

I think I can still get the factory ones for like $7 bucks a pop at a shop around here (usual cost is like $13 bucks). They gave me the $7 dollar cost because that is the price of the Emgo, but they were not selling the factory Suzuki ones. Quantity is very limted though.

[nurider]

Then I would say that I (and a number of other people around here) would be happy to ship you the OEM filter at our cost. As long as NuRider is headed for the dealership, maybe you can send him a paypal payment and get him to send you a couple extras

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Yeah, the dealer said he had around 200 in stock .....

[Mojoe]

if someone is going to send him filters, it might not be a bad idea to send him the oil filter wrench made to fit over the filter. you know...the one like this:

[img][/img]

[mx916]

K+N with the nut on top. I order fron Dennis Kirk.
I usually oredr two at a time so I always have a spare.

[nurider]

Yeah, the dealer said he had around 200 in stock .....

OEM filters don't have the nut on top.
So, I now have a Suzuki filter and an STP filter that I picked up at Auto Zone - both have rounded tops.

But they had the cap, which, incidentally, uses a 3/8" socket drive. Naturally, my socket drive is 1/2".

Hand tight is the way I'll go.

[smhholm]

I have always had good luck going hand tight and then another quarter turn with an oil filter wrench, Thats how you do it on a small block chevy and so far has worked on the bike. The quarter turn is just enough to keep it from workin itsself loose.The place you bought the filter should sell a wrench to fit that filter. Usually pretty cheap too.