Just bought used bike...need to know what maintenance needed

[Spliff]

Well, I just bought a 2001 Katana 750 with 2,500 miles on it so I'm assuming that it was sitting for a little while. It runs great, but it idles a little rough. I'm not sure if its the carbs, but I would just like a sort of list of things that I should go ahead and do to make sure that this bike is going to be running to its best potention. Any help, or maybe a link to a "DIY" thread or somehing would be great. Oh, by the way, I'm not sure what kind of maintenance the guy before me did to it...so hit me with some GOOD advice, as if the bike wasn't taken care of exactly like it should have been. I appreciate it in advance.

[fixer]

it's been sitting a LOT.

drain the gas and use it in the lawnmower or somthing. drain the float bowls too.

fill 'er wuth fresh gas and add some Seafoam... highly reccomended by many for flushing out gunked up carbs.

change the oil and filter, inspect the plugs, check the valve clearances and adjust if needed.

change the fork oil and set the height to match your weight and riding style... remember that the height of the oil affects the spring rate of the forks.

change the brake fluid & bleed the brakes. good time to upgrade to stainless brake lines on the front.

duno about the newer Kats, but my '89 Kat had a wimpy headlight bulb, one of the first upgrades was to a brighter (*ahem* "offroad only") bulb.

lube the chain.

check the water level in the battery, or just drop the coin for a maintence-free sealed AGM-type battery.

[Spliff]

thanx, i read up on how to do the valve clearance, do i need that special tool to do it? also, is there any write ups i can check out on how to drain the gas and the bowls and stuff. Oh, and what brake fluid do i use...damn, i'm gonna have to get me one of those service manuals if i'm gonna wind up workin on my own sh*t.

[fixer]

i'm not sure if the pre/post '98 Kats have the same valve adjustment, but if it is the same, there's a small driver for the square head of the valve adjuster... not absolutely needed, but makes the job much easier! the tool is about $5, depending on the source.

it's probably been 15 years since i've adjusted on a Kat, but it was very simple. in comparison, the valves on my KLR are also simple to adjust, but you need shims of the proper size. to replace the shims, you need to remoce the caps for the cam, and the holes in the head that they bolt into are very soft... it's easy to suddenly need to fix them with Helicoils. DAMHIK.

IIRC, the Kat uses DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, available anywhere. the covers for the master cylinders will say what fluid is needed. i you spill any brake fluid, clean it up IMMEDIATELY with rubbing alcohol... that'll keep it from eating paint & plastic.

the carb float bows have a screw lat lets you open the drain. IIRC, on my Kat, the screws for the left carbs face left, and those for the right carbs face right, and the outer carb uses a Philips screwdriver wile the inner one uses an Allen driver.. don't ask me why they don't both use the same driver... perhaps that's just my bike.

[The CyberPoet]

Assume the previous owner didn't do maint when it was supposed to be done, and do everything it might need (unless you can find evidence/proof that it was done -- might want to call the local suzuki shop and see if they have a service history) -- this will give you experience and peace of mind. The factory shop manual (Suzuki brand, not Haynes, etc) is the bible and you can't go wrong with it. For a '01, that would mean:
New brake lines (every 4 years), caliper seals, brake fluid (DOT 4 only -- not DOT 3!). SpeedBleeders optional but wise and makes the process simpler. Brake lines get replaced every 4 years. Brake fluid every 2, except in high-humidity locations where it's every year. Brake caliper seals every time the pistons get pushed back all the way in (by the book) or at least every 4th year (same as the lines).
Valve adjustment (nut adjuster on your's), oil & filter change, plugs & air air filter change. Check cam chain tension. Clean & lube chain (see CyberPoet's Motorcycle Chains - understanding wear and maintenance for more info). Retorque the 30 bolts to spec (everything from exhaust header bolts to brake caliper bolts -- see the factory manual for the list).

If you have more money than tools or mechanical skill, the 15k service runs around $305 - $310 in most parts of the country including parts and labor, and covers the valve adjustment, oil & filter change, torquing the various bolts to spec, and a safety check. The brakes would still be on you...

Make sure you check for rust in the gas tank. If it's there, it will look like rust -- just as if you were looking at the inside of a pail with some rust. Presence of an orange paste in the carb bowls is also a clear indication that there is rust. To deal with it, see myCyberPoet's "How to deal with rust in your motorcycle gas tank" at MotorcycleAnchor.com

If either of the tires are original, replace them. Five years is the age-guideline for tire replacement even if they aren't worn, as the VOC's dry out and the tires become hard and unreliable in grip. A '01 would have a '00 or '01 year of tire manufacture imprinted in the sidewall if the tire is original.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Spliff]

damn, thanx for the info bro.

[KatGemini1975]

Cyberpoet that is an awsome write up, I'm having my Gal take my bike to the local shop to have all this done also. Great info!!