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My bike burnt the headlight wires for the left light about a year ago, then burnt the wires for theright one a week ago. Has anybody else had this problem?
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You're not old until you're dead - and when you're dead, it doesn't matter. -
The problem is not uncommon. Happens when you use bulbs that are rated higher than the 55/60 stock wattage rating, because the wires start acting as a fuse. For more information, see this web page (at least the "what you really need to know" section):
CyberPoet's "Everything you wanted to know about motorcycle lighting upgrades and related electrical problems" at MotorcycleAnchor.com -- oil temp gauges just for GSX600F & GSX750F now available!
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet -
I had the same problem when I got the idea to try a 90/110 bulb cuz i thot my stock lighting sucked. it totally melted the plug.I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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SAME HERE...
OVER 1000 BUX IN DAMAGE WITH NO FIRE INSURANCE !!!(((((((RIDE HARD OR GO HOME)))))))Comment
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Yeah that would be ultimate bummer !!!!!
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Painless Wiring has relay and harness kits for using higher current lamps (halogen, etc.) in cars and trucks. Might be able to look it up and get some ideas of how to build your own high-amp lighting retrofit.
I just bought 10 Bosch 40-amp relays with harnesses for $23, including shipping off of Ebay. They usually go for 4-8 bucks each at stores. i am using them for windows, ec. in my 67 Lincoln and I am looking at doing the same for my headlights in my Blazer if the Painless relay kit is more than I want to pay for.Comment
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Making your own kit is really easy. All you need is 2 20A (minimum) relays (one hi beam, one low), some 12 guage wire, and 2 new lamp sockets. You don't even need to cut into your factory harness if you use spade terminals and plug them into the original lamp socket...
You can also easly add a lights-off-when-starting feature (like the newer models have) by adding 1 more relay and a minor harness modification...
Let me know if anyone needs a detailed how-to, even though I think someone else here already has one... (Cyber?)
/kibafind / -name "*your base*" -exec chown us:us {} \;
You must realize that someday you will die-until you know that, you are useless
If you can't make it fit with a sledge hammer, don't force it!
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I've got the wiring, relays, etc. here, but haven't bothered to install them since the vendor who was supposed to supply the hella 100/130 watt rally-bulbs didn't come through for me. I would be interested in the wiring diagram for a cut-out circuit for starting though and where you tapped in for it.Originally posted by kiba
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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I GOT AN EXTRA STOCK WIRING HARNESS FOR THE HEADLIGHT, AND FRONT RUNNING LIGHT , IF ANY ONE NEEDS IT.
LET ME [email protected](((((((RIDE HARD OR GO HOME)))))))Comment
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Here are some more useful and educational vehicle electrical references and vendors:
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The starter cut-out can be tapped in at several places: the yellow w/green wire on the right side harness (either bike or handlebar side), the yellow w/green wire on the left side harness (bike side only), or the black w/yellow wire on the left side harness (bike or handlebar side). The yellow w/green wires are between the starter button and clutch switch, and the black w/yellow on the bike side of the left side harness is after the clutch switch. Whichever you use, just use one of those inline taps on it.Originally posted by The CyberPoet
Relay 'H' is a standard heavy-duty lighting relay (SPST, 20A min)
Relay 'L' is also a standard heavy-duty lighting relay (SPST, 20A min)
Relay 'S' is a DPDT relay (12v, any current). You can use a SPDT one instead and not hook the high-beam side to it.
The thick lines should be at least 12 guage wire.
The 'Batt +' wire should have a 20A fuse on it near the battery (not shown)
/kibafind / -name "*your base*" -exec chown us:us {} \;
You must realize that someday you will die-until you know that, you are useless
If you can't make it fit with a sledge hammer, don't force it!
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