How to questions ?????

[michaelbluewolf]

To The Kat Klan,
Ihave a few question on servicing my 1992 GSX 750F Kat. It's all stock with 8000 miles on it. Purchased from a friend who wasn't a wrench. The bike is in good shape. I wish to do a little maintenance thou. I tryed to download a service manual at RMC, but having techno probs. I thank you in advance as I wish to the following and am sure the Kat Klan are good for this info.
1. How to... change the plugs?

2. How to... what settings should the rear shock and front forks be set at
I weight in at 198 lbs. and ride solo fairy rough to smooth roads here in carolina? I do enjoy redlight holeshots. I also love to feel the curves.

3.I haven't purchased a helmet in some time, how bout' the Scorpion exo 400 series helmets, Its hot and humid around here so hows the venting and fit of these helmets?
Thanx, Michael Bluewolf

[Sasquatch]

1. Remove fairings, and gas tank. you will then be able to see the valve cover. pull the wires (make sure you do not mess up the order) and change the plugs. Put every thing back together.

2. Do not know suspension, but Im about the same weight (6' 195), and I ride the roads here in NC as well.

3. Scorpion EXO 400's are fine, I have one (Warhawk), and love it. The 700's and 1000's are also options if you want to spend more money.

[The CyberPoet]

Sasquatch answered pretty much all the questions except #2, which I'll take a bigger stab at:

The condition of the suspension components and how old the fork oil is will be critical to whether you can get them set-up right for your needs on a bike that age. Typically fork oil, oil seals & dust seals should be changed every other year, and definitely every 4th year come hell or high-tide.

Front forks: I believe yours have 3 notch damping settings at the top (adjusted using a flat-blade screwdriver), with 2 as the default setting. To set, turn both controls counter-clockwise until they stop (no serious force), then turn clockwise again and count the clicks, stopping only on click postions (never leave the adjuster between clicks and go for a ride). The idea is to have the damping settings as low as possible without getting any yo-yo action after compression/release. If at the highest setting, it still yo-yo's more than 1/2 cycle, replace the seals, oil and either replace the spring or use something to pre-compress it internal to the forks).

Rear: Adjustable for pre-load, damping and rebound for your year/make if I recall right. Try preload of 5 out of 7, damping of 3 out of four, and rebound as needed to suit personal taste. Note: if you set all of these to their highest settings and still get yo-yo'ing out of the rear after a bump, the shock needs to be replaced.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[katman05]

I never took off the fairings to change plugs.

[kevin2502000]

I never took off the fairings to change plugs.

Ditto but you should losen them so they don't crack when you take the tank off.

[michaelbluewolf]

1. Remove fairings, and gas tank. you will then be able to see the valve cover. pull the wires (make sure you do not mess up the order) and change the plugs. Put every thing back together.

2. Do not know suspension, but Im about the same weight (6' 195), and I ride the roads here in NC as well.

3. Scorpion EXO 400's are fine, I have one (Warhawk), and love it. The 700's and 1000's are also options if you want to spend more money.

Thanks for info Sasquatch. I am also 6'1' and 198 lbs. I will do the plugs this weekend, I believe they may be carbon fouled from sitting since the when first starting the bike it coughes and spits smoothes out after it warms up. i am leaning toward the Scorpion Exo 400 since it fits my budget. again thanks much for th info this after noon RMC seems to be working but, your info was more to the point.
Michael Bluewolf

Sasquatch answered pretty much all the questions except #2, which I'll take a bigger stab at:

The condition of the suspension components and how old the fork oil is will be critical to whether you can get them set-up right for your needs on a bike that age. Typically fork oil, oil seals & dust seals should be changed every other year, and definitely every 4th year come hell or high-tide.

Front forks: I believe yours have 3 notch damping settings at the top (adjusted using a flat-blade screwdriver), with 2 as the default setting. To set, turn both controls counter-clockwise until they stop (no serious force), then turn clockwise again and count the clicks, stopping only on click postions (never leave the adjuster between clicks and go for a ride). The idea is to have the damping settings as low as possible without getting any yo-yo action after compression/release. If at the highest setting, it still yo-yo's more than 1/2 cycle, replace the seals, oil and either replace the spring or use something to pre-compress it internal to the forks).

Rear: Adjustable for pre-load, damping and rebound for your year/make if I recall right. Try preload of 5 out of 7, damping of 3 out of four, and rebound as needed to suit personal taste. Note: if you set all of these to their highest settings and still get yo-yo'ing out of the rear after a bump, the shock needs to be replaced.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Thanks for info Sasquatch. I am also 6'1' and 198 lbs. I will do the plugs this weekend, I believe they may be carbon fouled from sitting since the when first starting the bike it coughes and spits smoothes out after it warms up. i am leaning toward the Scorpion Exo 400 since it fits my budget. again thanks much for th info this after noon RMC seems to be working but, your info was more to the point.
Michael Bluewolf

Thanks for info Sasquatch. I am also 6'1' and 198 lbs. I will do the plugs this weekend, I believe they may be carbon fouled from sitting since the when first starting the bike it coughes and spits smoothes out after it warms up. i am leaning toward the Scorpion Exo 400 since it fits my budget. again thanks much for th info this after noon RMC seems to be working but, your info was more to the point.
Michael Bluewolf


Thanks for info Sasquatch. I am also 6'1' and 198 lbs. I will do the plugs this weekend, I believe they may be carbon fouled from sitting since the when first starting the bike it coughes and spits smoothes out after it warms up. i am leaning toward the Scorpion Exo 400 since it fits my budget. again thanks much for th info this after noon RMC seems to be working but, your info was more to the point.
Michael Bluewolf

Thanks to you Cyberpoet. My bike has the front forks with 5 settings sounds like it's a test and tune process kinda like the shock settings and valving on my old late model racecar. Hmmm 2 wheels versus 4 wheels, hey this may be easier!!! rear setting is under the seat push and pull it has road map with 3 settings so shouldn't be too hard to figure out just hafta get my old butt computer working again so I can set the suspension for optimum ride settings. Thanks for giving me the basics.

[The CyberPoet]

Thanks to you Cyberpoet. My bike has the front forks with 5 settings sounds like it's a test and tune process kinda like the shock settings and valving on my old late model racecar. Hmmm 2 wheels versus 4 wheels, hey this may be easier!!! rear setting is under the seat push and pull it has road map with 3 settings so shouldn't be too hard to figure out just hafta get my old butt computer working again so I can set the suspension for optimum ride settings. Thanks for giving me the basics.

Five settings on the front forks of a Kat 600 or 750? Hmmm... wonder if the forks are stock I thought the pre-98's only had 3, and I know the 98+ only has four, both of which only control the damping valve through which the oil passes. Some bikes have a lot more controls (preload for the springs, damping for compression, damping rebound rates, etc.). On the other hand if that slot spins freely (or lets you rotate it all the way around, even if still "clicking") then someone probably slipped a racetech brand cartridge emulator into the forks.

At the rear, there are more than just the under-the-seat adjustment. Suggest you try to score the Owner's Manual for the bike (about $12 new, or you might be able to find someone who has scanned it to the web) to explain all the adjustments particular to that shock to you. You'll also want to search KR or the web for "setting static sag" as a method for adjusting the preload at the rear correctly for your weight.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[wicked1z]

I weigh a little over 150 and I have mine set to 5 on the preload and 2 on the dampener. I tried messing with it a lot but that's the best I have found so far. Considering when I got the bike a few months ago it was all set to the lowest possible settings. That want fun at all

[michaelbluewolf]

Five settings on the front forks of a Kat 600 or 750? Hmmm... wonder if the forks are stock I thought the pre-98's only had 3, and I know the 98+ only has four, both of which only control the damping valve through which the oil passes. Some bikes have a lot more controls (preload for the springs, damping for compression, damping rebound rates, etc.). On the other hand if that slot spins freely (or lets you rotate it all the way around, even if still "clicking") then someone probably slipped a racetech brand cartridge emulator into the forks.

At the rear, there are more than just the under-the-seat adjustment. Suggest you try to score the Owner's Manual for the bike (about $12 new, or you might be able to find someone who has scanned it to the web) to explain all the adjustments particular to that shock to you. You'll also want to search KR or the web for "setting static sag" as a method for adjusting the preload at the rear correctly for your weight.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Mine old eyes, Your right I actually put the bike in the barn today and with the aid of lighting seen there are only 3 settings on the front forks. I will have to rode test and see what works best. Thanks CyberPoet for the info, I am still disecting the bike and learning what it has to offer.
Michaelbluewolf

[kahukiloia]

Start with measuring your spring sag.

1. Invite couple friends and buy a case.
2. Get the bike on center stand and have friend-1 measure from center of the axis to a static point on the bike. Turn signal works great. (M1)
3. Have someone hold your bike up while you sit on it (no center stand, regular riding position), friend-1 should press down with all his weight on the passenger seat and than painfully slowly (1 min. plus) release the weight. Your friend-1 than needs to remeasure distance between center of the axis and turn signal. (M2)
4. Have the same friend lift on the rear foot-peg with you aboard and than painfully slowly (1 min plus) lower the bike, than remeasure the distance. (M3)
5. Obtain the average of M2 and M3 and subtract it from M1. Your result should fall between 30-35mm for street bike. If not there yet, crank your springs up or down as needed and remeasure M2 and M3.
6. Repeat process for the front springs.

The CyberPoet covered damping fairly well. However, if you are pushing down on the forks and then rapidly releasing them, you are not able to observe the effect. Your friend should stay of to the side and watch it for you! The fork should jump up and than settle. If it jumps up, down and than up again (yoyo) it is set too low. Now if you compress the fork and upon release it takes 3 minutes to return and you hear sounds of suction you might have it set a little to high <sic>.

If you want fun course, try: http://www.totalcontroltraining.net/
Happy tuning.

[michaelbluewolf]

Thanks kahukiloia, I see that the chassis setup can be an ordeal. Thank for the information though. I will check the ride height and when I can corral a couple of friends I'll set the static set-up. For now I have the front forks set on #2 setting as the rear setting is at #2 also seems a good place to start.
I picked up a HJC CL-15 Flamed Dragon helt for $30.00 such a steal. Thanks to all who responded.
In the wind,
Michael Bluewolf

[michaelbluewolf]

Thanks kahukiloia for the info. I see the ride height and static load can be time consuming. Based on what I've read, I will road test and adjust the suspension at a happy medium between ride quality and handling. I inspected for leaks or damage to the shock, forks and found no damage. Seems to be in good working order. I ended up at #2 setting for the front shocks and #1 for the rear setting or all the way in. Now the bike rides good and there's not to much dive on braking and well on hard accelleration in lower gears, I have to honker down on the tank to keep the front wheel down. LOL
Thanks to all for insight and experience!!!
update: I bought a 2007 HJC CL-15 Flame Dragon Helmet for $30.00
Has a scratched visor but hey what a steal. works great.
Michael Bluewolf

[The CyberPoet]

update: I bought a 2007 HJC CL-15 Flame Dragon Helmet for $30.00
Has a scratched visor but hey what a steal. works great.
Michael Bluewolf

As long as the helmet itself hasn't been down... Never trust a helmet to do it's primary job more than once

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[michaelbluewolf]

Thanks CyberPoet, I have inspected the helmet inside and outside no impact points, the previous owner had many helmets and also as many motorcycles. He thinks the visor damage was done while transport the helmet when he moved to Fort Bragg. Sorry haven't been on much lately, working so just now getting around to responding back to you.

Riding on the wind, MichaelBluewolf