Hmmm...headlight issue....

[monolith]

Ok..heres the problem.....

First off...it's a 99 GSX600F

One day I noticed my headlight wasn't working....

Checked fuses...good...checked headlight bulbs...good....

After the easy stuff was out of the way...I tore into the harder stuff...

An hour later and the bikes stripped....

With key on...I have power to my fuse box.....

Wires between fusebox and headlight sockets all have good continuity....

All ground wires have good continuity to negative side of battery....

I have power to low beam socket white wire.....but not yellow wire...no power to high beam....

Flip dimmer switch...no power to either low or high....

Broke into dimmer switch....all connections are good.....cleaned up dust and connections and re-assembled.....

Have good continuity between dimmer switch and high beam socket....

Stood there staring at bike for hour scratching my head as to why these headlights are not working....

Finally gave up and tapped into third eye to power low beam side.....at least for now I'm safer...but not happy with rigged job...

Anyone else ever have this problem?

[DumbLuck]

after cleaning the low/high switch the problem changed from no high beam power to no low beam power???

[squiggy]

Wires between fusebox and headlight sockets all have good continuity....

That test will cover everything in between, i.e. connector plugs, switches, sockets, etc. Since that test checkout A-OK, it should be something simple.

How did you check your bulbs? Are you sure it's not them?

[devioustrap]

That test will cover everything in between, i.e. connector plugs, switches, sockets, etc. Since that test checkout A-OK, it should be something simple.

How did you check your bulbs? Are you sure it's not them?

If he taped into another circuit to power the low beam and it's working then that eliminates the bulb as being a possible problem.

[monolith]

after cleaning the low/high switch the problem changed from no high beam power to no low beam power???

After cleaning the dimmer switch I had no power to either high or low beams...

That test will cover everything in between, i.e. connector plugs, switches, sockets, etc. Since that test checkout A-OK, it should be something simple.

How did you check your bulbs? Are you sure it's not them?

Yes..I used a jumper to test the bulbs....both high and low were good....

If he taped into another circuit to power the low beam and it's working then that eliminates the bulb as being a possible problem.

Thats correct...thats what I did....

[Kreylyn]

Repair or replace the low/high beam selector switch.

Krey

[monolith]

Repair or replace the low/high beam selector switch.

Krey

But there really isn't anything that can go wrong in there right?

It's just 3 solder's and a metal plate that slides to select 2 at a time....

Just can't see how that can go bad as long as they are connecting...

[kevin2502000]

But there really isn't anything that can go wrong in there right?

It's just 3 solder's and a metal plate that slides to select 2 at a time....

Just can't see how that can go bad as long as they are connecting...

Use a jumper wire to test it.

I agree with Krey's thinking...........

[monolith]

Ok...I'll try to jumper it and see if it's the switch....

Hopefully someone has aftermarketed these....

[The CyberPoet]

That third eye wire will fry hard if you use it to power the low-beam -- it's not rated to move 50+ watts of power through it.

Typically, the failure is in the 16- or 20-pin molex connector over the headlight casing coming from the main wiring harness (bad connectivity at a pin, melted/scorched).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[monolith]

That third eye wire will fry hard if you use it to power the low-beam -- it's not rated to move 50+ watts of power through it.

Typically, the failure is in the 16- or 20-pin molex connector over the headlight casing coming from the main wiring harness (bad connectivity at a pin, melted/scorched).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

I thought about that too.....I made sure that wire was the same AWG as the headlight bulbs...it is...and by the wiring diagram it uses the tailight fuse...

Being I have aftermarket LED tailights rather than bulb there's some power to spare....

[Kreylyn]

But there really isn't anything that can go wrong in there right?

It's just 3 solder's and a metal plate that slides to select 2 at a time....

Just can't see how that can go bad as long as they are connecting...

You bypass just the switch and everything works, but it won't work with the switch... tells me something is wrong at the switch.

Corrosion, thinning/burnt wires, poor connection... I don't know. But, seems to me it's not working right.

Krey

[wicked1z]

Mine had no low beams and when I took the switch apart they just started working all of a sudden. when I put it back together they stopped again. come to find out one of the small solder joints had broken loose so you couldnt see it and that was what was causing my problem. Check it a little better sounds like a switch problem to me as well.

[The CyberPoet]

Mine had no low beams and when I took the switch apart they just started working all of a sudden. when I put it back together they stopped again. come to find out one of the small solder joints had broken loose so you couldnt see it and that was what was causing my problem. Check it a little better sounds like a switch problem to me as well.

This is common on the 01 - 06 models for some reason; I suspect it has to do with moving to a RoHS solder by the factory

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[wicked1z]

The funny thing was when I took it apart it "looked" ok. So I put it back together and it stopped working. that's when I decided to take the switch out of the housing to check a little closer. Then as soon as I took it out the wire moved. Those are a real PAIN to sodder.