pics in my garage aint workin for ya?
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did the duct tape help? try covering the outside air filter round hole 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to reduce air flow. It should run better. Oh and nice bike pic. bike looks tight dude wish myne looked that way. Im currently sanding down the 10 or so paint jobs my fairings have had on them over the past 20 years.Last edited by waffenampt; 06-18-2009, 02:22 PM.
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Originally posted by smokeshow81 View Postpics in my garage aint workin for ya?90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Originally posted by scottynoface View PostDidn't realize they were also in your garage. The plugs don't look horrendous.2006 Katana 750 - Daily therapy
2005 ZZR1200 - Weekend therapy
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Originally posted by diavolo View PostPlugs aren't horrendous - but if you look closely at the 4th one (last on right), you'll see the corners of the center electrode are rounded, instead of sharp - those plugs have lived a long service life, give em a decent burial.90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Ok so I duct taped the air box and here's what I got.
Hesitation (dare I say flooded) popping from anywhere below 8000rpms if I crack it 1/2 to wot. If I give it a 1/4 turn in the handle it's fine.
Any more and she doesn't want to go and then after 8000 everything comes together in a symphony of power that rockets me quicker then that bike has ever moved before.
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I have no idea... never really had a real good look at all the reciepts that came with it.
Anyways... stock air box I believe, I have the carbs out right now and am currently breakin em down. The needles have 5 spaces and they are set on 3 or middle at the moment.
float bowls are covered in crap... nice rusty color comming out.
Needles state: 5FZ102 and a diagram of a small square in a bigger one in front of the 5. Not sure if anyone knows the make.
Already lost a vaccuum o ring from sneezing. one from the cap on top. Wondering if I should attempt to take the emulsion tubes out with the floats. Not quite sure how to remove the floats properly without breakin em.
Oh and I've installed a stock air filter.
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Stop and go to carb's 101. It will show you not everything but enough to get you thru this. Lost "O" ring is no big deal. Go to Harbor Freight and get the metric "O" ring set for $10.00. Make sure it is the Nitrile kit. I am using some of the seals in my carb's now. If you are on a no money budget they will work. If you change any other seals always use a seal from the kit that is a tad smaller than the original. The only seals you can not use from the HF kit are seals for the air/fuel screws. Or go to your dealer and get what you need. I just read you have a 600. I don't think there is much of a difference from the 750 carb's. If you don't think you can do the carb's, ask someone that can help.Last edited by Kfreak; 06-19-2009, 08:53 PM.
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needles are stock mikune from europe. Search actually worked for once...
everything seems really new so is there a way to just clean the emulsion tubes where they sit? I'd rather just try to clean the assembly together and not risk anything else.
how do I clean the rubber gaskets and diaphrams?
no one can help from my little corner of the world
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you have to check to make sure the passages are free of rust, and old gas sludge.Its best to do a carb soak , but if you dont have that its best to use carb cleaner and a carb cleaning wire to make sure the small passages are all clean. Use compressed air to blow out all passeges with the jets out. Then make sure the piolt circuit flows fluid by putting the spray tube from the carb cleaner in the passage way and shooting each passage way to see if fluid comes out of each circuit. Check the jet numbers and check to see if they are factory. Depending how gummed up the carb is could it explain it running like that or it could be because nobody rejetted it richer after they put the pipe and k-n filter on.
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I did check the site for previous threads and it turned out they are stock jets from europe. Apparently mechanics out here wouldn't know what to do with adjustable ones.
If they are stock and are set on the middle one should I just leave it with the stock air filter or should I adjust it to the next level for richer. (up or down?)
Ok so I just tightened in all the A/F screws... 1.5 to tight, 1.75, 2.0 and 2.25.
So with that my question is:
#1
we count the turns as 1 being an full complete turn right? 360degs.
#2
does it matter if the screws all start in different positions?
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So what size pilot jets and main jets does these carbs have. -=-= As for the clip on the needle. Putting the clip on the end of the needle is the leanest setting. Anything lower than that is getting richer = letting more fuel in. Just lightly seat the a/f screws then count the revolutions of each screw-no each screw is different the heads arent going to match up perfectlyLast edited by waffenampt; 06-19-2009, 09:40 PM.
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