air box or cone filters info

[Kaster120]

Hey did some searching. and i was trying to find out what the pros and cons of taking off the box and sticking on 4 small cone filters per carb. im new at bikes and just like a car even though bike flows alot faster would it hurt the bike maim in some how or would it help it. its a 96 600 kat by the way

[jpcwb360]

does anyone kno whether an 06 crankcase cover and an 05 are the same? both are 600s

[arsenic]

you searched, but you didn't find the answer to that? Were'd you search? Would would have had much better luck on katriders.com. The answer is no. Pods on CV carbs is a BAD idea.

[Kaster120]

you searched, but you didn't find the answer to that? Were'd you search? Would would have had much better luck on katriders.com. The answer is no. Pods on CV carbs is a BAD idea.

reasons? like i said im new i kinda wanna learn the reasons not just the yes or no

[jpcwb360]

do u kno whether they would fit?

[arsenic]

CV carbs rely on vacuum resistance A LOT. When you add pod filters you are lessening vacuum resistance. You will cause flat spots in the RPM range.

jpcwb360 - start your own thread.

[The CyberPoet]

reasons? like i said im new i kinda wanna learn the reasons not just the yes or no

CV carbs rely on vacuum resistance A LOT. When you add pod filters you are lessening vacuum resistance. You will cause flat spots in the RPM range.

To expand on what arsenic said:

1. The main constriction point on the Katana engine's breathing (i.e. how fast it can move air in/exhaust out) is the collector of the exhaust header, where the four pipes come together into a single unit. As long as the size/shape of this collector portion remains the same, changes made at the intake side do nothing except screw with how well the carbs can mix fuel into the air; the stock OEM filter is already flows about 130% of what the engine can draw with no issue. The OEM filter also filters the air a lot better and is specifically designed (in terms of shape, material density, etc.) in conjunction with the airbox to ensure even fuel-air mixtures across all four carbs.

2. There are aftermarket headers that change the flow rate across the collector, when coupled with specific high-flowing mufflers; the V&H headers come to mind as being an example. In this case, the exhaust is specifically designed to work with a number of other upgrades at the same time, with all those upgrades are designed to provide more top-end power at the price of bottom- and mid-range power (for racing applications, where the engine will be in the top 20% of the RPM range virtually all the time). This situation is desirable for drag racing, and for certain other forms of racing, but not generally for typical street useage (last thing you want is the bike stumbling power at 4500 RPM in urban traffic when you desperately need it to move forward to get out of the way of something).

3. The different kinds of upgrades are referred to by stages, and they always involve some sort of trade-offs:
Stage 1 - for typical street use; designed to fatten up the mid-range torque a bit, and throttle responsiveness from idle-on-up, at the expense of absolute top-end power. This is the wisest upgrade for general ride-ability in terms of engine-power in normal settings. Just a change in jetting and a bit of post-change tuning to fine-tune the fuel-air mixtures (compromises the EPA-expected output values for the exhaust though, in case you live somewhere that has exhaust gas inspections).
Stage 2 - for road-racers, where retaining more mid to higher-end power is critical, absolute top-end/just off-idle isn't. Note that no one makes a stage 2 kit for the '88 - '06 Kat 600 & 750's.
Stage 3 - for amateur drag and pro/am track racing. This compromises off-idle and lower mid-range power for maximum power at the upper reaches of the RPM range. Stage 3 mods include intake, exhaust and fueling, and have to all be installed together and then post-install tuned to work correctly. There are (or at least were) stage 3 kits available for the 88-97 Kat's, as a variation of a stage 1 kit that could be tuned to stage 3. EPA-values totally out the window, and you can typically expect a lot of carbon build-up in the engines in 20k miles...
Stage 7 - for pro-level drag racing, this turns the engine into a single-purpose entity with extreme power at the absolute top-end (upper-midrange compromised), but with a very short expected lifespan as the cost. As far as I am aware, no one makes a stage 7 kit for the Kat's, at least for the standard engines (there may be some for those that have been worked-over with WiseCo bore-over/compression-increase kits).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Kaster120]

cool thanks guys that was the info i was looking for. the reason behind the no

[KrAzE]

Stage 10 - Ditch the motor and replace it with a military grade rocket.

[djstormxx]

lol wow thats insane.

[Luke]

I wonder what top speed on that thing would be?

[arsenic]

a lot

[Kaster120]

ooh ooh i want someone get me a price!!!

[The CyberPoet]

Anybody can put one in a drag bike...
Try this on for size!

[youtube]VxLn_EHggMQ[/youtube]

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet