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Rear brake rotor bent, how?

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  • Rear brake rotor bent, how?

    A couple days ago I noticed my rear brake didn't seem to be working well, so I bled them to make sure there wasn't any air in them. It didn't have any effect, so I took a closer look and noticed that the caliper seemed to be pressing the pads unevenly, and one pad was nearly gone. I had an new set of pads for the rear on hand, so I changed them and figured I was good.

    I went for a test drive, but it still didn't feel quite right. After I got off the bike, I noticed that the caliper was very hot, like the brake was dragging. Then I noticed that once again, the pistons seemed to be pushing the pads unevenly -- the inside piston was extended much farther than the outside piston. I didn't have time to look at it, so I didn't ride it any more.

    Today I took a closer look, trying to figure out why the rotor was not centered in the caliper. To the right of the rear wheel, mounted on the axle, is a spacer, followed by the bracket to which the calipers mount. As long as they're all pressed together (they are), the positioning of the caliper relative to the rotor is pretty much fixed (aside from rotation about the axle).

    At this point, I started wondering if the mounting bracket for the caliper was bent, but I couldn't see how, and it's a pretty stout piece of metal. Then I thought that maybe the rotor was warped/bent. I held a straight edge to the rotor, and sure enough it was. It's not a wavy bend, but rather like rotor was now concave/convex. On the right side of the rotor (facing the outside), there is a gap between a straight edge and the surface of the rotor. On the left side (facing the inside), it teeter-totters on the surface of the rotor nearest the center. Based on what I see, the outside circumference of the rotor is bent outwards by roughly half the thickness of the rotor.

    I am concerned as to how this could have happened, and what you think about fixing it. I'm also worried about removing the rotor from the rear wheel. I started to remove it a month ago when I first got the bike, but the bolts were so ridiculously tight I decided not to for fear of breaking the head off.

    In the following pictures, you can see that the rotor is not centered -- the seam separating the two halves of the caliper should line up with the center of the rotor as viewed on edge:




  • #2
    My guess would the rotor warped because of over-heating. Now, what caused it is something you need to look into because if you replace the rotor without finding the cause, then the new rotor will warp too.

    The brake rotor bolts have a thread locker on them.
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    • #3
      If it warped due to heat, then it must be related to the brake dragging. When I first bought it, I kinda remember something seemed a little off with the rotor. I also wanted to mess with the rotor bolts because the disc was actually slightly loose -- I could move it. However, the bolts were so stiff I didn't want to chance breaking them off. Looks like I don't have a choice anymore.

      Would it be possible to bend it back since the warp is consistent? Or should I just get another one?

      Also, what kind of thread locker would I need to use?

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      • #4
        get another one.
        sigpic

        '95 Kat 600 (Sold)
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        • #5
          Originally posted by paul.miner View Post
          If it warped due to heat, then it must be related to the brake dragging. When I first bought it, I kinda remember something seemed a little off with the rotor. I also wanted to mess with the rotor bolts because the disc was actually slightly loose -- I could move it. However, the bolts were so stiff I didn't want to chance breaking them off. Looks like I don't have a choice anymore.

          Would it be possible to bend it back since the warp is consistent? Or should I just get another one?

          Also, what kind of thread locker would I need to use?
          Replace or rebuild the caliper. I would suggest tearing it down to see if it's rebuildable before purchase of a rebuild kit.

          I know of no one who can straiten a rotor that is bent. It's pretty much replace it time.

          Once you have the new rotor installed, and the caliper rebuilt, before riding it make sure the rotor is centered for the caliper, and make sure both pads are contacting the rotor.

          You can test if both pads are contacting the rotor by placing a piece of paper between a pad and the rotor, press the brake hard and release, pull the paper out... you should be able to see the full pad outline. Do both sides. If your not seeing both sides fully, the pad is not fully contacting the rotor.

          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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          • #6
            Well, I got the rotor off just a bit ago. The bolts were ridiculously tight as expected, and one of them snapped off, so I had to drill it out. I wasn't sure if putting a torch to the wheel was wise.

            The rotor has a lot of discoloration from heat, and once off, the warp was very obvious:





            I bought a used rotor off eBay yesterday, so it should be on its way...

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            • #7
              dito on the caliper rebuild
              I would be doing the wheel bearings also after all that heat
              Blood , its in you to give! http://www.blood.ca/

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              • #8
                I was concocting some scheme to flatten the rotor involving a large steel plate and a bunch of bolts, when I remembered that my dad and I had went in on an arbor press a couple years ago. So I went over to his garage and tried flattening the rotor. It took me half a dozen presses to get it where I wanted it (I had to overbend it to get it into the shape I wanted), but it looks pretty good.

                I have a thick aluminum plate I picked up at a scrapyard a while back which was larger than the rotor. I laid12 nuts in a ring supporting the outer circumference of the rotor, and 12 nuts on top of the rotor around the inner circumference. I then stacked the arbor plates on those nuts and pressed it. It's a 20-ton press, but I didn't have to press very hard to flex the rotor.



                Going to be looking at the caliper next. I may just put this rotor on and keep the other one as a spare.

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                • #9
                  I don't know that I'd ever trust that rotor again... The amount of heat it saw had to be quite intense.

                  Meanwhile, on the caliper:
                  Rebuild kits exist from Suzuki that include the pistons and the seals for about $32 mail order, $42 - $45 at a typical dealer (I carry the ones for the 98+, but not the pre-98's). This is the route I would recommend given the seized caliper piston -- don't even consider reusing the existing pistons...

                  Cheers
                  =-= The CyberPoet
                  Remember The CyberPoet

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                    I don't know that I'd ever trust that rotor again... The amount of heat it saw had to be quite intense.

                    Meanwhile, on the caliper:
                    Rebuild kits exist from Suzuki that include the pistons and the seals for about $32 mail order, $42 - $45 at a typical dealer (I carry the ones for the 98+, but not the pre-98's). This is the route I would recommend given the seized caliper piston -- don't even consider reusing the existing pistons...

                    Cheers
                    =-= The CyberPoet
                    darn good advice on never trusting that rotor again. make a wall clock or wind chime out of it.

                    when if ever are you gonna carry pre caliper rebuild kits?!?!? i was told by my dealer at one point they wasnt available to them anymore (i suspect this is a fib) and i had to buy individual parts
                    99% of the questions asked here can be answered by a 2 minute search in the service manual. Get a service manual, USE IT.
                    1990 Suzuki GSX750F Katana
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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DumbLuck View Post
                      when if ever are you gonna carry pre caliper rebuild kits?!?!?
                      When demand dictates... I get about two requests a year for the pre's for the full kits, so I don't see enough requests to justify stocking 'em from my perspective (I'll special-order to fulfill if someone wants them). As it is, I just sent a couple sets back to Suzuki because they sat on the shelf since December without any takers.

                      Cheers
                      =-= The CyberPoet
                      Remember The CyberPoet

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                      • #12
                        and I thought I had rotor problems

                        thats really bent
                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                          I don't know that I'd ever trust that rotor again... The amount of heat it saw had to be quite intense.
                          What sort of problems can that cause?

                          Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                          This is the route I would recommend given the seized caliper piston -- don't even consider reusing the existing pistons...
                          They don't seem to be seized. When I changed the pads, they seemed to be moving fine. The angled rotor surface seems to make it drag; maybe the pistons don't like being pushed unevenly? It makes me wonder if it was a small problem that just snowballed (small bend caused it to drag, which made it warp more, which made it drag more, etc).

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                          • #14
                            The color on the edges of the contact surface show that the rotor reached temps of a minimal of 640 degrees f.

                            The concern at this point is metal memory.... If it's been heated, and bent.... that is going to be the natural return position if any further pressure or heat is applied. It may warp again very easily, possibly from normal use.

                            Krey
                            93 750 Kat



                            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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                            • #15
                              usually car rotors are made from cast iron , hard to the point of being brittle

                              At best it could warp again and cause surging of the brakes , worse case senario shattering and locking the rear wheel on the highway
                              Blood , its in you to give! http://www.blood.ca/

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