[scottynoface]

I figure the risk is low to non-existent. The payoff is that I get to ride all week!

The risk for going facefirst into a tree/wall/guardrail at triple digits? Low risk is still too much for me, but hey, your body your life your bike

[paul.miner]

The risk for going facefirst into a tree/wall/guardrail at triple digits? Low risk is still too much for me, but hey, your body your life your bike

You're posting scary outcomes, but I don't think you've thought the risks through. Kreylyn did in post #28, and I think that's a realistic evaluation.

I agree it's more likely to warp/cone than crack. But only if the heat becomes excessive.

I am taking it easy on the rear brake, and every time I park it, I pull out my infrared thermometer and check the rotor temperatures, and whether the rotor is still centered in the caliper. Because I've been light on the rear brake, temps have only hit 120-130 F, which while hotter than what I think is nominal, is not very hot.

I am going to replace it this week/weekend, so there aren't any long-term concerns.

If you think it's risky, please put more detail into your explanation. Simply saying my rotors are going to crack and wreck my bike leaves out key details about how this will happen given my current situation.

[scottynoface]

If you think it's risky, please put more detail into your explanation. Simply saying my rotors are going to crack and wreck my bike leaves out key details about how this will happen given my current situation.

You've obviously thought it out well enough that my words would be wasted. Again, your bike your money your life, do whatever the hell you want

[RossW]

If you think it's risky, please put more detail into your explanation. Simply saying my rotors are going to crack and wreck my bike leaves out key details about how this will happen given my current situation.

Are you sure the entire rotor reached an even temperature when you heated it? Did you maintain the elevated temperature for an extended period? Did you carefully control the heating and cooling rate? If you answered no to any of those questions then the heating you did had minimal effect. Uneven heating will leave residual stresses in the material which increases the risk of cracking. Furthermore, for true annealing to take place the temperature must be closer to 800F and the temperature must be maintained for an extended period because you need to give the crystal structure time to re-order. The heating and cooling process must also be done slowly and steadily to prevent thermal stress.

Will it fly apart and kill you tomorrow? probably not. Is what you did a smart idea? probably not.

[H-2 CHARLIE]

you know its week now, ben bent and straightened its time to break apart next .. its not your seat hinge

[SilentTJ]

personally, i think you're doing just fine. keep the rotor on there till the replacement arrives. i get through my days without ever touching my rear brake. you should be fine, the worst thing will be an emergency stop and you must use both brakes hard. so some heavy pressure is applied for a matter of seconds, worst case, the rotor warps again, not likely for that short duration, and you just replace it anyway. i think too many people worry far too much about "what ifs" and the very extreme situations. as it has been said, i wouldn't keep the rotor on there very long, but long enough till i can replace it. as scotty said, it's your life, your bike, do as you wish, and do so knowing at least one person here doesn't think you're crazy for it.

[paul.miner]

Well, the rotor arrived yesterday, and since it was raining this evening, I put the new rotor on. I could tell the old rotor was still coned a bit.

Since it's still raining, I didn't want to take it out on a test drive, but I can tell I don't have to press the rear brake as far to fully engage it, probably because the rotor is perfectly flat and the pistons don't have to travel as far to firmly grab it.