help clutch leaver doent adjust into neutral!!!

[thadude-who-wrestles]

i was trying to fix a stiff cluch lever so i cleaned the lever pivot and everything behind the cover there. soooo now the leaver is eaiser to pull. . . but now the lever dosent take the gears into neutral so when i shift the bike lurches foward and dies. ovbiously i put something to geather worng i just dont know what. there was a pin that stuck out that i cleaned off that stuck out of the bike. im not sure what that does but for some reason it think that is my problem. i just dono what it is or how to fix now

[paul.miner]

Pull the little rubber plug off of the sprocket cover and make sure you can see the clutch adjustment screw turn when you pull the lever. This would tell you whether your linkage up to that point is working.

If it's not turning, the cable isn't connected to the arm, or the mechanism was put back together in the wrong orientation. On mine, there are four possible orientations for that mechanism, the proper one being where the cable entering the sprocket cover is perpendicular to the arm it attaches to when the mechanism is fully retracted.

If it is turning.. I don't know -- you didn't adjust that screw did you? If you did, maybe you just need to readjust it. Make sure your sprocket cover is bolted all the way to the engine, because if it isn't, that would increase the distance the pushrod has to travel before it releases the clutch.

Probably unrelated, but when I changed my oil and let the bike sit for a while, the clutch got stuck, and I ended up having to start it in first gear and apply light braking while letting it roll forward a foot or so until the clutch got unstuck.

Oh, and make sure your kickstand is up when shifting into first

[thadude-who-wrestles]

Pull the little rubber plug off of the sprocket cover and make sure you can see the clutch adjustment screw turn when you pull the lever. This would tell you whether your linkage up to that point is working.

If it's not turning, the cable isn't connected to the arm, or the mechanism was put back together in the wrong orientation. On mine, there are four possible orientations for that mechanism, the proper one being where the cable entering the sprocket cover is perpendicular to the arm it attaches to when the mechanism is fully retracted.

If it is turning.. I don't know -- you didn't adjust that screw did you? If you did, maybe you just need to readjust it. Make sure your sprocket cover is bolted all the way to the engine, because if it isn't, that would increase the distance the pushrod has to travel before it releases the clutch.

Probably unrelated, but when I changed my oil and let the bike sit for a while, the clutch got stuck, and I ended up having to start it in first gear and apply light braking while letting it roll forward a foot or so until the clutch got unstuck.

Oh, and make sure your kickstand is up when shifting into first

the clutch adjustment screw is turning so thats not a problem.

the cable is connected to the arm but im not sure what you mean by the four ourientations of the lever?

should i pull my clutch leaver in as i reattach it? that way the arm is in a different configuration?

no i didnt adjust that screw but at first when i tightened the cover down it was so tight that it was impossible to pull the clutch leaver beacuse the arm was adjusted out already so when i pulled the leaver it pushed further out. so i loosened the cable and lowered the arm down until it didnt hit anymore. but like i said now it does not shift int neutral and the gears just shift up and down freely as i push the clutch up or down.

[paul.miner]

the cable is connected to the arm but im not sure what you mean by the four ourientations of the lever?

should i pull my clutch leaver in as i reattach it? that way the arm is in a different configuration?

Here was mine when I pulled the sprocket cover off: http://www.blinkenbyte.org/wksportbi...cket_cover.jpg

The arm that the cable pulls on is attached to a cylinder that moves perpendicular to the sprocket cover as it is rotated via spiral grooves on its surface. If you pull it out, it is possible to put it back in with a different orientation (e.g., with the arm pointed up when the mechanism is fully retracted like in the picture).

no i didnt adjust that screw but at first when i tightened the cover down it was so tight that it was impossible to pull the clutch leaver beacuse the arm was adjusted out already so when i pulled the leaver it pushed further out. so i loosened the cable and lowered the arm down until it didnt hit anymore.

I'm not following you here... are you saying that initially, when you pulled the clutch lever, it pushed the sprocket cover out? Not sure what you mean by lowering the arm until it didn't hit anymore...

but like i said now it does not shift int neutral and the gears just shift up and down freely as i push the clutch up or down.

You mean you pushed the gear selector, not the clutch, right? Also, holding in the clutch is unrelated to shifting into neutral, it's just disengaging the clutch.

[scottynoface]

I'm so confused as to what is going on here...

Your cable is too loose. That's all I could decipher from your original post. It's too loose, therefore the clutch will not completely disengage, and when you go to shift gears that **** just locks up and dies. Slack out the cable a bit.

This is what I'm getting. No clue what that pin thing is you're talking about. Worm gear? Clutch safety switch? Gremlins?

[Psycho1]

the pin is the clutch pushrod that has to fit inside the hole on the actuater inside the cover, if it's not lined up right, no matter how the cable is adjusted it won't push the clutch. If that's in the hole it's supposed to fit in on the cover, the cable probably just has to be tightened a bit so it pushes the rod far enough to release the clutch. I have about 3/8" play at my clutch lever before it starts pushing the clutch, and it releases fine.

[scottynoface]

the pin is the clutch pushrod that has to fit inside the hole on the actuater inside the cover, if it's not lined up right, no matter how the cable is adjusted it won't push the clutch. If that's in the hole it's supposed to fit in on the cover, the cable probably just has to be tightened a bit so it pushes the rod far enough to release the clutch. I have about 3/8" play at my clutch lever before it starts pushing the clutch, and it releases fine.

Yup. I like using a quarter, perfect amount of play for me.

[thadude-who-wrestles]

ok so i took off the cover that houses the clutch cable etc (1st pic). cleaned the cable connection and arm (2nd pic) then replaced everything. my cable was not adjusted properly at first thats why i could not shift out of neutral. but now that i adjusted the cable to shift, im back to the problem i started with. which was a clutch leaver that was almost too hard to shift.

looking at the arm that is in the 2nd picture i noticed it pushes out to engage the clutch on the little rod sticking out (3rd pic the rod is just to the left of the chain) ( i think i get it atleast ) but i noticed it moves so much that it pushes against the case cover out. i think that is the problem i am having with the cable being hard to shift due to the fact that i am pushing on metal.

any ideas on how to solve the problem?

thanks

[paul.miner]

looking at the arm that is in the 2nd picture i noticed it pushes out to engage the clutch on the little rod sticking out (3rd pic the rod is just to the left of the chain) ( i think i get it atleast ) but i noticed it moves so much that it pushes against the case cover out. i think that is the problem i am having with the cable being hard to shift due to the fact that i am pushing on metal.

Yes, the mechanism is designed to push the rod inwards, which compresses the clutch springs, relieving pressure on the clutch plates (i.e. disengages the clutch). It pushes against the sprocket cover, which should be firmly bolted to the engine.

If the sprocket cover is firmly bolted to the engine, and the clutch adjustment screw has been set correctly (iirc, tighten until it starts pushing the rod, then back it off half a turn) and it is actually flexing the sprocket cover, then it seems the stiffness is in the clutch. Do you have extra-heavy clutch springs?

[thadude-who-wrestles]

Yes, the mechanism is designed to push the rod inwards, which compresses the clutch springs, relieving pressure on the clutch plates (i.e. disengages the clutch). It pushes against the sprocket cover, which should be firmly bolted to the engine.

If the sprocket cover is firmly bolted to the engine, and the clutch adjustment screw has been set correctly (iirc, tighten until it starts pushing the rod, then back it off half a turn) and it is actually flexing the sprocket cover, then it seems the stiffness is in the clutch. Do you have extra-heavy clutch springs?

i do not know about the clutch springs. i have not done anything to them. and i am not sure about previous owners.

how do i check the clutch adjustment screw? which part is that really? is it under that rubber piece on the outside of the cover?

[paul.miner]

how do i check the clutch adjustment screw? which part is that really? is it under that rubber piece on the outside of the cover?

Yes, that's it. To start, back the screw out a ways, and bolt the sprocket cover to the engine. Then screw it back in until you meet resistance; this is the point where the pushrod begins compressing the clutch springs. At that point, back it out half a turn or so. This gives it a little play.

[hardlydangerous]

Have you tried lubing the cable properly. it Must be done once every few weeks

[Cheriff]

I would also suggest rolling the lever further down. Doing this will help keep your wrist in line and reduce strain and discomfort you may have been experiencing on longer rides

[thadude-who-wrestles]

Have you tried lubing the cable properly. it Must be done once every few weeks

no i have not lubricated the cable. what kind of lubrication should i use? and where do i apply it? the only exposed part of the cable is at the two ends.

I would also suggest rolling the lever further down. Doing this will help keep your wrist in line and reduce strain and discomfort you may have been experiencing on longer rides

thanks thats a great thought! i should have known that from wrestling! always keep your bones alined for max strength