Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

help!!! clutch leaver is hard to pull

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • help!!! clutch leaver is hard to pull

    i know there is a way adjust the leaver or the cord so that it wouldnt be so hard to pull but i cant figure it out. any suggestions?

    thanks

  • #2
    lube the cable and lever pivot, and clean and grease the clutch release mechanism in the drive sprocket cover. if that all dont do it, put lighter springs into the clutch basket (not really recomended)
    99% of the questions asked here can be answered by a 2 minute search in the service manual. Get a service manual, USE IT.
    1990 Suzuki GSX750F Katana
    '53 Ford F250 pickumuptruck
    Lookin for a new Enduro project

    Comment


    • #3
      DumbLuck got it...

      Most common reason is the cable got old/frayed-in-the-sheath/rusty, and replacing the cable is the simplest solution (lubing it may or may not help). If the bike went down, the lever might be bent in the pivot, and disassembling/lubing/reassembling the pivot for the lever is easy enough to check (with the cable off, see if you're getting any resistance at the lever).

      The stock clutch springs aren't too strong, but some riders tend to replace them with aftermarket ones from Barnett, which are about 2-1/2 times stronger (good for drag-racing style launches, horrible for urban traffic where you're constantly pulling the clutch in). If it's neither the cable nor the pivot, this is probably the reason -- the good news is that the parts are fairly cheap to replace...

      If you need a clutch lever, or clutch cable, I carry both under your local dealer's price. See http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=58596 for details.

      Cheers
      =-= The CyberPoet
      Remember The CyberPoet

      Comment


      • #4
        another thought that really helped mine was to remove the switch under the clutch lever clean it really good and put it back in. mine was all sorts of gunked up. since i did that it dramatically lightened the clutch pull.

        http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/..._LEVER_MODEL_3
        part number 18
        Rc51 sp2 power commander 3 with custom tune, speedcell battery, titanium rear subframe, sato banzi full titanium exhaust, 16/42 sprockets, turn one carbon fiber airbox and snorkel, sato rearsets scotts damper cgr shorty levers.... more added everyday

        1997 kat 600: b12 rear shock, jetted and vance and hines full exhaust.

        Comment


        • #5
          Might need to try adjusting your clutch. There is a how to on it in the HOW TO Section.
          www.mopowersports.com

          Comment


          • #6
            I can pull my clutch with one finger . If yours is hard , it has a problem . Period . LIKELY culprit is the cable . But grease in the lifter mechanism and lever pivots helps ....
            I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



            Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

            Comment


            • #7
              ok i got the lever problem fixed. . . or atleast its better now. i cleaned the lever pivot and everything behind the cover there. soooo not the leaver is eaiser to pull. . . but now the lever dosent take the gears into neutral so when i shift the bike lurches foward and dies. ovbiously i put something to geather worng i just dont know what. there was a pin that stuck out that i cleaned off that stuck out of the bike. im not sure what that does but for some reason it think that is my problem. i just dono what it is or how to fix now

              Comment


              • #8
                The pin you cleaned, was it part of a contact switch with a couple wires going to it on the clutch lever pivot area? If so, it needs to set to engage/disengage with the lever's action (it's the clutch safety switch sensor, that keeps you from starting in gear without the clutch in, lest you hit the starter and have the bike go flying forward into something). BUT that switch isn't designed to have any effect (by itself) once the bike is running.

                There's another switch just like it at the side-stand which is designed to kill the engine if the clutch sensor isn't over-riding it AND the bike goes into gear. This is there to keep a dragging sidestand from possibly catching something on the road surface while riding and tossing you & the bike.

                Or was the pin down by the other end of the clutch cable (i.e. - at the clutch instead of at the lever end)?

                Cheers
                =-= The CyberPoet
                Remember The CyberPoet

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                  The pin you cleaned, was it part of a contact switch with a couple wires going to it on the clutch lever pivot area? If so, it needs to set to engage/disengage with the lever's action (it's the clutch safety switch sensor, that keeps you from starting in gear without the clutch in, lest you hit the starter and have the bike go flying forward into something). BUT that switch isn't designed to have any effect (by itself) once the bike is running.

                  There's another switch just like it at the side-stand which is designed to kill the engine if the clutch sensor isn't over-riding it AND the bike goes into gear. This is there to keep a dragging sidestand from possibly catching something on the road surface while riding and tossing you & the bike.

                  Or was the pin down by the other end of the clutch cable (i.e. - at the clutch instead of at the lever end)?

                  Cheers
                  =-= The CyberPoet
                  here are pictures of the parts i cleaned and adjusted
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X