Oil/Overheating Question...

[skasner]

Over the weekend I did a 90 mile or so run down I77 to look at a camper-van. I had no problems at all other than boredom from going striaight the majority of the time.

Anyhow on my way back home I decided it was time to see what my bike can do on the ole' interstate so I opened her up. I started out cruising around 75-80mph for about 45 miles and then went another 25 miles averaging between 100-120mph.

Out of nowhere my bike felt like I was riding through sludge... the engine began to bog down and the oil light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and shut the bike down immediately. No oil leaks... oil level looked good (kinda dark though... oil change planned this week)... no puddles on the ground.

After sitting there for about 3 minutes I went ahead and started the bike back up. It had a little bit of hesitation to it, but no more oil light and it seemed to run smoothly. I then proceeded to ride it the rest of the way home (around 20 miles or so) and then parked her in the garage.

My question is... was this just a cooling issue from running at high speed & high RPM on a hot summer day? Is this normal?

I've had the bike for a couple months now and put about 1400 miles on it so far. I'm planning on changing the oil and filter this week/weekend with a stock filter and synthetic oil. Should I be worried or do anything else?

Thanks.

[md86]

Wierd , I've run quite a few times at higher RPM's with no problems , and my bike seems to be falling apart to boot ! Sorry , can't help you .

[skasner]

As a follow up... i've continued riding the bike and have not noticed any problems since. One the rain leftover from Dennis hits here (prob tonight) i'll be motivated enough to change my oil and filter. i'm thinking of going w/ either Castrol GPS of Royal Purple CycleMax

It should be interesting as i've never had to do an oil change on a bike before. I imagine some plastic has to come off right? I'll just grab the Haynes manual i left at the in-laws before i do it.

[md86]

I did my oil yesterday , and not one bolt from the fairings had to come off . But you may need to take the bottom fairing off your 98+ ...

[The CyberPoet]

(A) You'll need to take off your lower fairing to change the oil & filter (98+). In theory, you can do it without taking off the lower fairings, but the reality is you'll get oil all over 'em and might screw 'em up while trying to get the bolt out & in -- factory service manual calls for removing them.
TIP: Place aluminum foil over the header directly under the oil filter before removal -- you won't have to burn off motor oil later.

(B) Putting the drain bolt back in is where most people run into issues -- you need a torque wrench and torque it to 16.5 lb-ft; too much and the pan strips out (#$*% Suzuki for using a steel bolt in an aluminum pan), too little and the bolt will vibrate out in transit and dump hot oil in front of the rear tire).

(C) The oil light comes on when the oil pressure switch sees too low an oil pressure coming off the oil pump. Sometimes this means the wiring to the switch is defective (worth investigating -- might have a nick or exposed insulation); othertimes it means either the oil has lost it's viscosity (and needs to be replaced) or more often that the oil level went low (due to evaporation/burning/lack of maint/etc).

(D) Your Kat shouldn't overheat to the point of oil pump pressure failure doing 120 in 95 degree weather while in transit. If it does, you need better oil (see CyberPoet's "How to Understand and Choose Motorcycle Motor Oils" at MotorcycleAnchor.com -- now selling 400 degree F oil temp gauge & sender solutions for your bike!) and need to check both your oil pump and your oil cooler fins (to make sure they're not bent up too badly).

(E) I sell an VDO analog gauge solution with a 400 degree range that's weatherproof and suitable for the Kats... Mounts up real nicely on the 98+ models. Peace of mind for a reasonable cost...
See CyberPoet's MotorcycleAnchor.com - Oil Temp Gauges for sale for details.





Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[SoloScott]

TIP: Place aluminum foil over the header directly under the oil filter before removal -- you won't have to burn off motor oil later.

I tried doing that for my last oil change (thanks for the idea, Cyber) and it was very tough to get the AL foil in there, above the header pipes. In the end, it did keep some of the oil off the pipes, but there was still some burn-off.

I like the gauge mounting for the temp gauge; looks pretty stock. However, if I did it, I would probably try to put the temp gauge where the clock sits and relocate the clock to the new hole. The handle bars obstruct the new gauge location a little, and that's much more important that knowing the time.

[The CyberPoet]

However, if I did it, I would probably try to put the temp gauge where the clock sits and relocate the clock to the new hole. The handle bars obstruct the new gauge location a little, and that's much more important that knowing the time.

Unfortunately, because of the size of the clock, and the support structure/circuit-board underneath it, no suitable gauge I've found can fit in the opening (remember, this is a motorcycle, so the gauge has to be weatherproof, etc).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[SoloScott]

I understand. Well, it would have been nice if it could have worked.

[skasner]

Yeah, I was thinking... man... i have no factory clock, that would be a perfect spot. So much for that idea.

For now I'll just change the oil and filter, and check the oil cooler fins.

I plan on getting some reverse indiglo guages and that one would look kinda goofy compared to the others.

I have no idea what kind of maintenance has been done of the bike (bought it used a couple months ago) so the oil in it could be shot.

[The CyberPoet]

I plan on getting some reverse indiglo guages and that one would look kinda goofy compared to the others.

That's why I also carry the gauge in white -- to compliment the indigo gauges.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet