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Carb adjustment woes

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  • Carb adjustment woes

    I've got a set of 34mm Mikuni RS on my bike (94 with a 96 B6 engine). I'm trying to get them adjusted correctly, but I'm having one heck of a time, especially since I'm not the brightest when it comes to carbs. Here's where I'm at so far.

    I set all the float levels to 17mm, as I was told to do so by a couple different shops as well as people online. I'm pretty sure I did it right. Regardless, they're all the same now, and a lot better than they were.

    My jet needle is on the 3rd clip I think, I can't remember right off the top of my head. I know it's where the stupid book that came with them told me to put it. Same deal with the main jets. I don't remember the size off hand, but it's what the book said. That's not where my problem lies anyway.

    I did a manual sync on them, and that's as close as they're going to get until I get it to somebody to do the real job. I'm not touching that part, these are a P.I.T.A. to sync.

    My air/fuel screw is 1/2 turn out right now. I think this might be part of my problem, as well as some of my confusion. I've heard everything from "you should be at 2 - 2 1/2 turns out" to "mine is set at 1/8 turn out and runs great". As far as I know, on these carbs, turns in makes it richer.

    Now, my problem..... I finally got it started and all that. I was pretty stoked! The first thing I noticed is that sitting there not in gear, I can give it all the throttle I want with AWSOME response, but the RPM's kinda "hang" for a second, then come down pretty slowly. Am I wrong in thinking that's a lean condition? Anyway, I take her out for a test run, to see what's what. Cruising around kinda slow at first, not really getting into her until I was happy things were ok from the winter storage. Everything seems fine, so I grab a handfull of throttle. The only way I can explain it is like giving a cold weed eater gas, and it bogs down like it's going to die. Then if I let off it a little, then got back into it a little slower.... BAM!! Off like a rocket. I'm telling you, it pulls harder than I've ever felt up top. So I thought that maybe it was just loaded up a little and needed to be cleared out. So I pointed it in a straight line, snatched the throttle again, same result. If I "roll" into the throttle, no problems, I just can't snap it open if it's under a load. I can't even pull a hole shot off the line without it trying to die. Frustrated and confused, I call it quits for the night.

    It sits in the garage for a couple days while I ponder things. I go back out Saturday afternoon to try again. Pull the choke, start it up, and let it sit running like that for a few seconds before I push the choke back in. As soon as I did, it started popping and crackling like there was a valve hung open or something, then it wanted to die. So I quickly pulled the choke again, and it settled down and ran like a champ, except for the plumes of black smoke coming from the exhaust everytime I'd give it any throttle. I let it run like that for about 2 or 3 minutes, then pushed the choke in again. This time, it would idle, but still did the popping thing when I gave it any throttle.

    These are "new" carbs. I bought them brand new the summer before last. Put them on, never adjusted anything on them other than what the stupid book said, and they ran poorly for about a month before I parked it for the winter. Last summer, I never got to ride due to getting married, having a baby, and other life altering events. So this summer I'm determined to get it right. I've been through them inside and out to make sure there was no dirt, or fuel varnish or anything of that sort in them. Clean as a whistle. I'm just confused.

    I've been told so far to raise my needle up a notch, and turn in my air/fuel screw a little to richen things up. Does this sound right? Thoughts?
    94 600 With a GSX-R 1100 engine. Stretched, lowered. Air shifter, Nitrous, Who knows what next...

  • #2
    The float level is set too high, and the hang back to idle is a vacuum leak.

    Use a can of WD-40, or an unlit propane torch around the fittings. When the idle jumps that's your problem area.

    Did you replace the o-rings on the intake boots?
    -Steve


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    • #3
      The intake boots are brand new, purchased at the same time as the carbs. They came directly from Suzuki with new o-rings already installed. What do you think my floats should be at?
      94 600 With a GSX-R 1100 engine. Stretched, lowered. Air shifter, Nitrous, Who knows what next...

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      • #4
        Float height 14.6 +/-1 mm (0.57 +/- 0.04 inch)
        http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5...=Carb_settings
        -Steve


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        • #5
          Steve, he's talking about RS carbs, those are NOT the same as the OEM carbs you think are 14.6 +/- 1mm/

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          • #6
            Has a Bandit 600 engine...
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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            • #7
              Wait, so the Bandit engine with Bandit carbs?

              Did you swap the airbox too?

              Now I'm confused
              -Steve


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              • #8
                Ok.... It's a 94 Kat, but has a 96 Bandit 600 engine. RS carbs, no airbox. Just K&N pods or velocity stacks, depending on where I'm going to be. Dyna 2000 ignition complete with dyna coils if it makes a difference.
                94 600 With a GSX-R 1100 engine. Stretched, lowered. Air shifter, Nitrous, Who knows what next...

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                • #9
                  First things first! Pull the plugs & if they are black, clean them or install NEW ones. Next, you need to warm the bike up to OPERATING temperature & adjust the mixture screws CORRECTLY! With the bike idling at the correct speed, start with carb #1 and turn the mixture screw in or out 1/8 of a turn at a time until the bike idles the FASTEST. If the idle comes up too much, turn it back down & go on to #2. Then 3 & then 4. After you are done, reset the idle speed to correct setting & move onto jetting. Keep in mind that RSs have the slides connected DIRECTLY to your right hand! If you slam the throttle wide open you go dead LEAN with NO air velocity! Unless you have a bigger or "worked" motor you will need to learn how to "roll" the throttle on to have the bike react smoothly. You will need to back off the accellerator pump to begin tuning it. Back it all the way off & go ride the bike. If it hesitates when you first roll the throttle on, come back & turn the screw in a half turn. Keep doing this until the hesitation goes away. Again, ROLL the throttle on, don't SLAM it wide open. After that you will need to tune the main jets & needles to fine tune it but this is the way I start with them & have had great success. PM me for my # if you need help on the phone & don't want to listen to 50 different opinions on what "might" work. Good luck, Ray.
                  85GS1150E 83GS1100SD 83GS1100ES 82GS1000SZ 96GSXR1500DRAGBIKE 96GSXR1400DRAGBIKE 90GSXR1166DRAGBIKE 05SDG110PITBIKE & 8 QUADS!!! "Life is tough! It's even tougher when you're stupid!" John Wayne

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