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Gas & maybe oil coming out crankcase breather

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  • #16
    Originally posted by pilotdada1 View Post
    Not sure about the rest of the folks here, but I don't dip outboard carbs or motorcycle carbs. They go in an ultrasonic cleaner or get done by hand with spray.

    James
    Do you soak needles or jets at all? Can you just spray a bunch of carb cleaner into a container and use it to soak or will it evaoporate too quickly?

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    • #17
      CT_KAT,

      You can dip the carbs, but need to make sure all rubber parts and the butterfly shaft seals are removed. Whatever brass parts you take out can certainly be submerged. Thing is, once all the rubber parts, float cages, jets, slides, slide guides, pilot screws, fuel pipes, fuel tees, overflow tees and so forth are removed, there is literally not that much left to clean. Certainly, the passages that can and should be cleaned are large enough where they should be able to be cleaned sufficiently with a good aerosol cleaner. After all, these passages are large enough where any possible restriction is not likely to be as great as what is normally offered by the jets and such when they are reinstalled. I think you will better off just putting the thing to stock (you have stock pipes, right?) than installing that DynoJet kit. I'm sure you can ebay that thing to get rid of it. Whatever you do, do not tap the slide lift holes. Otherwise if you at some point actually want to get it to run right, you will have to buy new slides.

      Regards,

      Derek

      Originally posted by CT_KAT View Post
      Great info, thanks Derek. I'm at Guard drill now, but the carbs are sitting on my kitchen table at home just waiting for me to dive back in and work on them. There's a good chance the float needles will need replacing, I'll check that first thing. Has anyone tried Napa carb cleaner http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+Choke+Cleaner and would you recommend using it? I'm thinking of soaking the carbs instead of taking the time to spray the crap of out of them with a can of carb spray.

      I'm dissapointed to hear all the bad news about Dynojet and I wish I'd come to this site first before I bought from them. The thing that sucks is I've aready dumped the $125.00 on the kit and I know I'll get the hairy eyeball from my wife if I drop another $125.00 on a Factory Pro along with all the other nickel and diming I've been doing to tune the bike up.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by moto View Post
        CT_KAT,

        I think you will better off just putting the thing to stock (you have stock pipes, right?) than installing that DynoJet kit. I'm sure you can ebay that thing to get rid of it. Whatever you do, do not tap the slide lift holes. Otherwise if you at some point actually want to get it to run right, you will have to buy new slides.

        Regards,

        Derek
        Hi Derek, I actually put on a V&H Supersport full exhaust and that's one reason I went with the dynojet kit. I've also tapped the slides already too, so I'd have to buy new slides

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        • #19
          Originally posted by CT_KAT View Post
          Hi Derek, I actually put on a V&H Supersport full exhaust and that's one reason I went with the dynojet kit. I've also tapped the slides already too, so I'd have to buy new slides
          Well, let's just get back to basics here. The most likely culprit as far as the overflowing is concerned is worn float needles or a piece of dirt stuck in one or more float needle seats. Get that fixed and set the float heights to the factory spec. Also inspect the slide guides for wear. If those are worn, they should be replaced, as otherwise the emulsion tubes will wear (if they haven't already), causing low rpm driveability and excessive fuel consumption problems. This is a chronic problem with the Mikuni carbs. The best way to inspect them is to look for the small depressions at the bottom corners of the slide contact area. If the surrounding material is worn flush with these depressions, it's high time to replace the guides. In severe cases, you won't even be able to discern where the depressions were. Then sync the carbs and adjust the idle mixture and speed. Once that's all taken care of you can try to see if it can be made to run right with the DynoJet kit. But the fundamentals have to be taken care of first.

          Regards,

          Derek

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          • #20
            Derek,
            just a quick note to say Thanks! Only 3 posts to your name and all 3 have been full of great information to help somebody else.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by BradsKat View Post
              Derek,
              just a quick note to say Thanks! Only 3 posts to your name and all 3 have been full of great information to help somebody else.
              I second that! Can we at least make him an honorary 'chicken strip'?

              Thanks again for the info, I'm home from Guard drill and ready to tear into my bike!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by BradsKat View Post
                Derek,
                just a quick note to say Thanks! Only 3 posts to your name and all 3 have been full of great information to help somebody else.
                You're most welcome!

                Regards,

                Derek

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                • #23
                  Since most posts are requests for help, I wanted to drop a 'thanks' to everyone who helped me get my bike up and running again.

                  After a couple oil changes, new air filter w/ stock airbox, Dynojet Stage 1, and a thorough carb cleaning my Kat is absolutely purring. No more oil/gas dumping from the crankcase breather, and no leaks/drips anywhere around the carbs. This is just with a visual carb sync too. I'll be putting in a request to borrow the carb sync tool soon to finish things off.

                  Kudos to the Katriders forum members!

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