some simple questions ( 95 kat750) it's alive !

[gazoo]

ok, i got the kat running after 6 or 7 years of sitting in the garage . new cables ( throttle , choke ) . since i have'nt screwed with this in a while i'm unfamiliar with it . 1st question : does the throttle cable have a little spring that goes inside the handlebar with the cable ? sort of like a return spring ? 2nd question " can anyone tell me the bolt sizes that hold the tank at the back by the battery . 3rd question : the seals on the front forks look dry and brittle , they need to be replaced . is this a major pita ?? 4th question : can you tell me the size of the little screws that go into the sides of the airbox . . thanks for the replies guys .

[RossW]

The carbs have a torsion return spring built in. The tank bolts at the back are M6x25 or thereabouts. Replacing fork seals ain't that bad, get yourself a manual for your bike or read the sticky about fork rebuilds. The airbox side screws are M6 and pretty short (8,10, something like that).

[kevin2502000]

1. No only springs are on the carb itself.
2. 10mm head, I THINK its a 6mm shaft.
3. Fork seal replacement isn't bad, I would rate it 5/10 on a 1-10 scale. Search threads for how to instructions.
4. Same as #2. The most common metric size.

[arsenic]

4. Same as #2. The most common metric size.

totally disagree with that There are WAY more M5 x .8 bolts then M6. BTW the M6 thread pitch is 1.00.

[kevin2502000]

totally disagree with that There are WAY more M5 x .8 bolts then M6. BTW the M6 thread pitch is 1.00.

My extra metric bolts container (salvaged from various jap cars and bikes) says you're wrong Plus I use a 10mm socket WAY more than a 9mm. (cap screws and nuts)

[Wild-Bill]

OK, let's do a detailed count of all bolts and connectors used on every bike made between 1980 and present. We'll cross-correlate the sizes vs lengths vs manufacturers and present it all in a series of at least 42 PowerPoint slides. Arsenic, you're in charge.

As for the forks, It gets way easier if you have access to an air-impact gun. There's a bolt going in the bottom end of each fork that holds down the damper assembly. If you just put a wrench on it it'll just keep turning. You have to build a special tool to reach down inside the fork tube to hold it still. An impact gun will have those bolts out in a jiffy. Also, while you're in there anyway, you might want to think about installing progressive springs. They go a long way toward improving the handling.

When you go to install the new seals you'll want to build a driver. I went to Lowes and came back with a 1 1/4" schedule 40 PVC coupler and a 2"x1 1/4" adapter. Glue them together, Dremel out the bumps inside so it fits over the fork slider and you've got a great driver that won't tear up the top of the seals. I used a piece of 2 1/2' steel pipe nipple with duct tape lining the inside as a slide hammer and the seals went right in, straight as you like.

[GSXfs600]

OK, let's do a detailed count of all bolts and connectors used on every bike made between 1980 and present. We'll cross-correlate the sizes vs lengths vs manufacturers and present it all in a series of at least 42 PowerPoint slides. Arsenic, you're in charge.

Lets not!

[gazoo]

i think i'll let the sop put the dust seals on . anyone have a ball park figure on how much they'll charge me for this ?

[Kfreak]

It's going to cost you plenty unless you pull the forks off yourself. I just replaced mine last week and I still feel you can pull the seals without pulling the forks apart. After pulling my forks apart I realized you don't really have to separate them unless you are changing the bushings also. I didn't have to change my bushings. I now have a better understanding on how the forks are manufactured. All you are doing is sliding the seal off the shaft. Two holes on the opposite sides of each other with two good quality seal hooks and it will work. I just didn't have the hooks at the time and wanted to get the bike back together because the weather was warm the next day to ride. As far as the bolt replacement, I have found everything I needed at Lowes so far. I always take the old bolt or the part the bolt goes into to get the right size.

[RossW]

If it's just the dust seals and not the oil seals that need replacement you don't need to disassemble the forks. When I pulled my dust seals the oil seals were shot too so I had to replace everything. And you don't need any sort of special tool if you just break the bottom bolt loose before you start disassembling the fork.

[Kfreak]

Dust seals, no pulling apart of the fork. Oil seals. Yes. Think about this: How do you pull a seal from a pinion, with the pinion in place? With a seal puller. This is the same principle.

[gazoo]

ok , thanks for the info . before i go any further let me say thats its a dust seal thats beat up from the bike sitting for so long . i don't have a motorcycle jack but i do have a pretty big floor jack ( 4 of 5 ton ) . i do have plenty of tools but no vise or work bench yet ( i just moved in ) . murphy's law says that if the dust seal is bad the oil seal and all will have to be replaced . i won't know till i do it right ? then i need the special driver , etc . i could take the wheel and forks off and take them to the bike shop right ? i need to get my tires put on so i'll take the wheel too . theres a shop close by me called cycle pro in glen gardener , nj so if any ones heard good or bad about them please let me know . they also have a website . thanks for the advice , help !!

[Kfreak]

If the oil seals aren't leaking, why bother? If you change the dust caps now, it's a tear down of the front. $$$ If your oil seals leak in 3 months, it's a tear down again. x2 $$$ You may as well change it all at once. I used my center stand and a tie down on the rear grab bar to keep the bike up.

[kevin2502000]

It's going to cost you plenty unless you pull the forks off yourself. I just replaced mine last week and I still feel you can pull the seals without pulling the forks apart. After pulling my forks apart I realized you don't really have to separate them unless you are changing the bushings also. I didn't have to change my bushings. I now have a better understanding on how the forks are manufactured. All you are doing is sliding the seal off the shaft. Two holes on the opposite sides of each other with two good quality seal hooks and it will work. I just didn't have the hooks at the time and wanted to get the bike back together because the weather was warm the next day to ride. As far as the bolt replacement, I have found everything I needed at Lowes so far. I always take the old bolt or the part the bolt goes into to get the right size.

I have done this before on forks. The hardest part is getting the seal out, if its really hardened in there it is best to disassemble the fork to have that extra umphh to get it out. I had to heat and dig out my last set even with the fork apart. If they pry out easily, leave them together and just drain the oil and refill. You can tap them in really carefully with out a driver, just lubricate it well.

[md86]

Dust seal pops right off with a screwdriver . But you'll need to get it over the top of the fork , which means taking the fork out of the clamps . So , take off the wheel , loosen the clamp bolts enough that the forks slide out , slide seals up & off , slide new seals down , and re-assemble . Sounds easy enough .....