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this may sound really stupid but i really dont know.. lol.. but what actually causes the clutch to burn out.. or burn out so quickly?? thanx
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a bike clutch has multiple friction pads & plates in a 'basket'
to make it simple - think of a car ( manual tranny )
think of a friction pad that couples the engine to the drive train - as you release the clutch the friction pad comes in contact with the flywheel - as the clutch is fully release the pad & flywheel rotate at the same speed - but as your releasing the clutch is takes time for them to come to the same speed - the time that it takes for the pad to spin at the same speed as the flywheel it's wearing material of the pad.
the longer you take to get the clutch released causes more wear, also if you have a big difference in rpm's of the flywheel & the rear wheels it'll take longer to hook up - causing wear.
so quickly ? maybe you just need to adjust the clutch cable.
tim
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so basically change gears as quick as possible and keep it low rpms when changing gears will reduce the wear??Comment
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change gears quickly - yes.Originally posted by yellowkat
but more importantly when you release the clutch try and match the rpms of the engine to the rotation of the rear wheel.
i think more wear is caused by stop & go traffic. starting from a dead stop, or just slipping the clutch to inch forward.
timComment
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ok thanx a lot...
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Good post Trinc...
Motorcycles have the advantage of having multiple plates. Also the plates use both their faces.
Add this up and the friction surfaces on a motorcycle are an order of magnatude higher than on a car. Down side? they are bathed in oil
As Trinc said a poorly adjusted clutch may not be dis-engaging fully and adding more wear.
After some time you wil find two things.
A. That gear changes will take little time to make.
you will get so co-ordinated with the motions that
you bearly blip the throttle to change gears.
B. that you will learn to upshift with out the clutch.
Down shifting puts the most wear on the system.
Matching revs is more important to lower the wear on the clutch and using engine braking adds load to the engine (crank, bearing etc.)
Unless the engine braking is really needed,
hold the clutch in while slowing, down shifting the tranny but not letting out the clutch. This way you are ready to accerate when needed but you are not adding wear and tear to the engine and clutch.
The clutch on my first manual transmission car lasted about 40K miles.. the second one was still good when I sold it after 80+K more....Comment
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Oh and they are considered "burned out"
when the plate wear to the point they can't create enough friction to firmly connect the engine to the transmission.. Some people say if you can
get the vehicle moving in 2nd or 3rd with out slipping the clutch and do it smoothly the plates are worn..Comment
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The OEM clutch for the Katana is rated for about 20 to 25k miles for the typical rider, according to Suzuki. This is a combination of urban and rural riding. Obviously if you ride primarily long rides on the interstate in top gear and rarely shift, you're going to cover many miles with no use of the clutch and your clutch life-span will go way up.
On the other hand, if you tend to slide your clutch heavily (say, rev'ing to 4k or 5k from a stop and then sliding the clutch to bring the bike up to speed), the clutch will wear out quite fast.
The other issue that some riders face is clutch glazing. Clutch plates are almost identical in compound to brake pads (one of my prior clients builds custom brake pads for tug boat winches and ship clutches, and explained this to me years ago). In the same sense that brake pads glaze over when exposed to temps which are too high or too intensive use over too short a period of time, clutch pads can have exactly the same issues. Drag racers often have this issue (as does anyone trying to wheelie a stock Kat with the clutch as the primary means of accomplishing it); switching to stronger clutch springs (barrett) helps in this kind of situation (because the clutch pads will grab faster under higher pressures), but the problem will remain.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Thank you for posting this bit of information... I have been wondering if my engine breaking was good or bad, now I knowOriginally posted by Black_peter
. You saved my clutch!! Now I have to get used to remembering what gear I am in...
Nik88 Katana GSX600F, 19k miles, Total Custom- Soon to be revealed!!!!!!!Comment
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GR8 POST, JUST 1 Q TO ADD:
> MY CLUTCH LEVER IS A BIT HARD, MEANING I HAVE TO LET GO OF THE LEVER "COMPLETLY" TO THE END TO HIT THE ENGAGING POINT , (WHEN I GET THROTTLE RESPONSE , AND THE BIKE MOVES). ON MY CLUTCH CABLE , NEAR THE LEVER THERE ARE TWO KNOBS TO TURN, I HAVE TRIED TO TURN THEN , BUT THERES NO EFFECT. ON MY PREV 99 KATANA, ALL I HAD TO DO WAS LET THE CLUTCH LEVER GO HALF WAY, GIVE SOME GAS AND THE BIKE WOULD MOVE, ON THIS 01 I HAVE TO LET GO COMLETELY..IS THERE A WAY TO CHANGE THAT? IS THIS BEC. THE CLUTCH IS NEWER ON THE 01 KAT?(((((((RIDE HARD OR GO HOME)))))))Comment
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and IMO, if you are riding like that, you really should get someone to teach how to properly shift..On the other hand, if you tend to slide your clutch heavily (say, rev'ing to 4k or 5k from a stop and then sliding the clutch to bring the bike up to speed), the clutch will wear out quite fast.
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The big ring/knob thingy is the locknut , loosen it . The little knob is the adjuster , turn it out . This will make your clutch freeplay less . Turning it IN gives you MORE freeplay . If it does NOT , you got some problem I can't even think of ... There are 2 other areas of adjustment too , BTW . One at the sprocket cover where the cable goes in (another locknut/not adjuster deal) , and the little slot w/ locknut on the front of the cover . We'll try those if the first one doesn't work , though .Originally posted by SUPA-FLY-KATI am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !
Katrider's rally 2011 - md86
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Maybe it's your cap lock..Originally posted by SUPA-FLY-KATComment
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If his clutch is engaging at the end of its travel, wouldn't you want to turn it IN so it engages earlier?Originally posted by md86Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.
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No.Originally posted by loudnlow7484
The adjuster changes the length of the cable path.
Turning it in shortens the path, out lengthens the path..
As the cable itself stays the same length.
If the cable is too long (too short a path) the first bit of motion is just taking up slack. So you turn the adjuster out to remove the slack.
Over time the path stays the same and the cable stretches.
So you have to adjust the path to accomidate.Comment
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