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Carb swap?

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  • Gsxxx600
    started a topic Carb swap?

    Carb swap?

    While taking apart the carbs to clean, I kept wondering why my Haynes manual is giving me directions to take apart items that I dont even see...Haynes states my 94 600 has BST33SS carbs.

    However, I began looking at the diagrams of the 31 and 34SS carbs, and it turns out, mine looks exactly like those...not the 33SS.

    I have a part number off the side of the carb...44C30, which looks exactly like a gsx1100f carb setup.

    Ronayers states the carbs that should be in my bike, are 44C20.

    Can anyone help me figure out which bike these were actually pulled from? It would make disassembly and cleaning much clearer.
    Thanks

  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    well, i put the carbs back in today and big difference.

    After a quick ride, it was running horrible, spuddering and what not...so i adjusted the throttle screw, and check the plugs, started it up. and it runs great.

    Lets see what tomorrow brings
    Thanks everyone

    Leave a comment:


  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    Ill keep you informed, i know for sure it was cyl 4, not sure of the other one..

    I just put new plugs in again, and ill check tonite, when its darker

    thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • The CyberPoet
    replied
    blue is healthy.

    Which cylinders had the orange spark? This will tell us if the problem can include a bad coil or just bad wires/plugs...

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPoet

    Leave a comment:


  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    thanks cyber.

    I also noticed, when i take my plugs out to observe the spark in the gap, two are orange, while the other two are blue.

    Orange means its a weak current, could that be my problem with the misfiring, idle too?

    Do i need new coil packs and wires?

    Leave a comment:


  • The CyberPoet
    replied
    Originally posted by md86
    Originally posted by Gsxxx600
    Do you need the engine to idle first, in order to perform a carb sync?
    Yes .
    It needs to idle at 1700 - 1800 RPM to do it... normally that means getting a stable idle and then turning up the idle thumbwheel to jack the RPM's up.

    PS - you do the sync with the engine hot. Attach the hoses before it heats up

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPoet

    Leave a comment:


  • md86
    replied
    Originally posted by Gsxxx600
    Do you need the engine to idle first, in order to perform a carb sync?
    Yes .

    Leave a comment:


  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    Do you need the engine to idle first, in order to perform a carb sync?

    I made my judgement on the condition of the carbs as related to the picture of "Spark plug conditions chart" in the back of my haynes

    Leave a comment:


  • Ex10DidKatana600
    replied
    Another thing to check is carb synch, which can directly effect how the bikt idles. When you say the plug is carbon fouled, are you going by looks, or did you actually check it?

    An easy way to see if the plug is truely bad it with a multimeter set on the Ohms setting.

    Touch positive to the tip of the plug (the end that plugs into the wire) and touch the negative to the threads. A good plug will read nothing or infinate. A bad plug (electrically fouled and junk) will give you a Ohms reading.

    If one cylinder seems to give you trouble, check the main jets, not all years, but some, Suzuki stuck larger jets in the inner two cylinders, if you mix them up it could cause a problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    I once again took out all four plugs and they all appear to be carbon fouled now!

    BTW...I mixed up the order when i took out the plugs...The wires are labeled...is it just 1-2-3-4 from left to right, or are they in a diff order
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • The CyberPoet
    replied
    Originally posted by Gsxxx600
    One plug was carbon fouled (too rich)
    Can this be an ignition problem instead of a carb problem?
    It could be a spark plug wire issue; since two cylinders fire off a single coil, if the coil or anything before the coil was bad, a pair of cylinders would be showing the same symptoms. Most likely it's a carb issue or vacuum-seal issue.

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPoet

    Leave a comment:


  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    Thanks for the detailed info EX...it really helps,
    I have another question though.

    One plug was carbon fouled (too rich)
    Can this be an ignition problem instead of a carb problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ex10DidKatana600
    replied
    P.S.
    GSxxx600, the cause of the revving at idle is it is lean, typical of an incorrectly adjusted fuel mix screw. Set them like I recommend in the post and you should run good.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ex10DidKatana600
    replied
    When you say you cleaned the carbs, how did you do it? Quite honestly, the carb dip stuff you get at autozone, carquest, wherever is total garbage, sure it smells good, but nothing beats a good industrial cleaning.
    Yes, I DO know what I am talking about, before the bashers come at me. I am a graduate of MMI in Phoenix (motorcycle mechanic institute for those that dont know) and have worked in a Suzuki/Kawisaki shop for over a year now. I have cleaned tons of carbs customers cleaned themselves only to mess up.
    Here is a good honest way to make sure those pilots are clean and it will idle correctly. First off, get the pilots out, duh. Next, strip about a 3 inch section of wire, speaker wire, parts loom, wherever. Pass one strand through the jet and "roll" the jet with your finger.
    If you dont have access to industrial cleaner (most of you wont) get a can of Suzuki Carb spray, best on the market, desolves tarnish, etc. Spray out your bowls and then let some extra sit in the bowl. Drop your pilots in and let them soak for an hour or so. Blow them out with compressed air to make sure they are clear.
    Another area of throttle response that can be inproved on it needle hieght, how can I adjust this though since there are no clips? Well, go to the local hardware, take a needle with you and find some shims (tiny washers) that will fit good on the needles. USE ONLY ONE as thats usually all thats required.
    Now the easy part, reinstall them, set your fuel screws to 2.5 turns out if your bike is stock, 3 turns if you have a pipe. Should idle great. Hope I have helped, any other questions, let me know.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gsxxx600
    replied
    lol thanks

    I took out the carbs, only to realize i should have looked at the plugs first...CYL 1 was carbon fouled.

    I cleaned it, regapped them all and started it. It doesnt idle at all, so I adjusted the throttle stop screw...big mistake.

    I cant get the throttle to be responsive anymore now...ill crank it down, and a half sec later, it will rev like 2000rpms.

    Is that bc i adjusted the stop screw?

    Please help

    Leave a comment:

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