Carb swap?

[Gsxxx600]

While taking apart the carbs to clean, I kept wondering why my Haynes manual is giving me directions to take apart items that I dont even see...Haynes states my 94 600 has BST33SS carbs.

However, I began looking at the diagrams of the 31 and 34SS carbs, and it turns out, mine looks exactly like those...not the 33SS.

I have a part number off the side of the carb...44C30, which looks exactly like a gsx1100f carb setup.

Ronayers states the carbs that should be in my bike, are 44C20.

Can anyone help me figure out which bike these were actually pulled from? It would make disassembly and cleaning much clearer.
Thanks

[katrider]

I think a Suzuki dealer with good parts counter help can find those numbers for ya...that's where I would start.

[The CyberPoet]

Simple way to tell definitively:
measure the opening on the engine side of the carbs -- the measurement in millimeters is the same as the two digits of the carb identifier (i.e. - a BR33ST has a 33mm opening).

For the Kat 600s, the OEM carbs are:
88 & 89:
Mikuni BST31SS (31 mm, 4 each)
90 - 97:
BST33SS (33 mm, 4 each)
98 - 05:
Mikuni BSR32
(32 mm, 4 each)

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Gsxxx600]

just need a tape with millimeters now lol
thx

[tylerc]

anyone every swap up to the 98+ for better performance?

[The CyberPoet]

anyone every swap up to the 98+ for better performance?

It won't give you any better performance unless your carbs are in bad shape.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[tylerc]

just not enough of a size difference then?

[The CyberPoet]

just not enough of a size difference then?

1mm size difference isn't really enough to make a major difference (1mm smaller in the 98+ produces a little bit better fueling at lower RPM's because of higher velocities through the carbs, but also acts as a constriction point to reduce how much air can flow through at high RPM's). The biggest difference is the addition of the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) which causes the CDI to use 2 different spark maps, depending on the carb butterfly position and gear -- but to get that, you'd have to swap carbs, CDI's and related wiring. No worth the tiny boost in 1 & 2nd gear, IMHO.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[duff daddy]

just need a tape with millimeters now lol
thx

13 mm is a half inch so 25 = 1 inch about and 34 would be about inch and a quarter

[The CyberPoet]

31mm = roughly 1.22 inches (1 & 7/32nds) -- just a hair under 1-1/4
32mm = roughly 1.26 inches (1 & 17/64ths) -- just a hair over 1-1/4
33mm = roughly 1.3 inches (1 & 19/64ths) -- just a hair under 1-5/16

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[duff daddy]

ok mr technical, i think i was pretty damn close

[The CyberPoet]

ok mr technical, i think i was pretty damn close

Indeed you were... I just wanted to give him something he could actually use with an American tape measure or flat-rule.

PS - don't forget, you owe me a drink at the rally

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Gsxxx600]

lol thanks

I took out the carbs, only to realize i should have looked at the plugs first...CYL 1 was carbon fouled.

I cleaned it, regapped them all and started it. It doesnt idle at all, so I adjusted the throttle stop screw...big mistake.

I cant get the throttle to be responsive anymore now...ill crank it down, and a half sec later, it will rev like 2000rpms.

Is that bc i adjusted the stop screw?

Please help

[Ex10DidKatana600]

When you say you cleaned the carbs, how did you do it? Quite honestly, the carb dip stuff you get at autozone, carquest, wherever is total garbage, sure it smells good, but nothing beats a good industrial cleaning.
Yes, I DO know what I am talking about, before the bashers come at me. I am a graduate of MMI in Phoenix (motorcycle mechanic institute for those that dont know) and have worked in a Suzuki/Kawisaki shop for over a year now. I have cleaned tons of carbs customers cleaned themselves only to mess up.
Here is a good honest way to make sure those pilots are clean and it will idle correctly. First off, get the pilots out, duh. Next, strip about a 3 inch section of wire, speaker wire, parts loom, wherever. Pass one strand through the jet and "roll" the jet with your finger.
If you dont have access to industrial cleaner (most of you wont) get a can of Suzuki Carb spray, best on the market, desolves tarnish, etc. Spray out your bowls and then let some extra sit in the bowl. Drop your pilots in and let them soak for an hour or so. Blow them out with compressed air to make sure they are clear.
Another area of throttle response that can be inproved on it needle hieght, how can I adjust this though since there are no clips? Well, go to the local hardware, take a needle with you and find some shims (tiny washers) that will fit good on the needles. USE ONLY ONE as thats usually all thats required.
Now the easy part, reinstall them, set your fuel screws to 2.5 turns out if your bike is stock, 3 turns if you have a pipe. Should idle great. Hope I have helped, any other questions, let me know.

[Ex10DidKatana600]

P.S.
GSxxx600, the cause of the revving at idle is it is lean, typical of an incorrectly adjusted fuel mix screw. Set them like I recommend in the post and you should run good.