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  • Crankcase cover bolts

    ok, I went through a bunch of crap to figure this out. I'm posting this so that someone down the line won't have too. This is a conglomeration of pre and post covers, but 5mm is really the only difference. I'll say what the covers are:
    I have a Pro Bolt engine kit for pre 98. The only cover I have that's 98+ is the front sprocket cover. I used the 98+ bolt measurements for that, because like I said it's a 5mm difference.
    clutch cover / pre 98 cover, pre 98 bolt measurements:

    signal generator cover / NRC cover, pre 98 bolt measurements:

    stater gear cover / NRC cover, pre 98 bolt measurements:

    front sprocket cover / 98+ cover, 98+ bolt measurements:

  • #2
    This should be Sticky'd. Really though, you should have just asked, I had it all figured out for the post KAts a year or so ago.
    2000 Katana 600
    2011 Triumph Sprint GT
    __________________________________________
    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find ya handy."
    ____________________________________________

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    • #3
      Consider this stuck!!
      This "Phat Chick" rides her own!!!
      BTW, I think they may have been correct. It does appear that BLACK is indeed the FASTEST color. R.O.R...R.I.P.M



      Welcome to KatRiders.com!Click here to register

      Support the KR.com site by shopping here: http://www.motorcyclegear.com/?utm_m...iderscom"]Help

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      • #4
        Dave, I have this issue, I don't ask people, I just figure stuff out on my own. I think it's part of little man syndrome, which I attribute to why I'm such an arse.

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        • #5
          here's more:

          PS. if anyone know were to get stainless steel metric flange (JIS) bolts, lemme know
          Last edited by arsenic; 04-15-2009, 01:52 AM.

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          • #6
            I ran into a problem on the signal generator cover. On the bolt where the rubber washer goes, I cant tighten the bolt with the washer on so I put a dab of rtv on the threads and behind the head of the bolt and tightend it. Will this cause a leak? Thanks.

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            • #7
              Arsenic do you know where I can get a starter gear cover? for i think its a '93 600 motor that finaljig got from mreedohio. My mom knocked my bike over in the garage and cracked it in 3 places.
              $900 takes the '93 600 katana i have. needs upper main fairing thats it. runs fine idles high might be vacuum leak or carbs need cleaned car projects have kept me from working.

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              • #8
                Arsenic has been banned. So he will be unable to answer this question for you.

                98Kat is your bike a 98+ katana if so you more than likely do not need that washer there. You put RTV on it so you will be good to go.

                GJ as for the cover you are looking for someone on here should have one. I will look and see if I do. But please do not start a thread in any other area excpet for wanting to buy please thanks.
                www.mopowersports.com

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                • #9
                  I recently change my clutch engine cover, I bought the appropriate gasket for it nd bought this suzuki silicon sealer tube.
                  I applied it on the engine where the cover fits and put everything on.

                  there was no leak the same day.
                  However I drove for good 45 minutes and saw that there was a small oil leak.
                  I do not know what to do now.

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                  • #10
                    Silicone Sealant

                    Hi;
                    You MUST clean both surfaces both physically and chemically.
                    Lots of paper towels and solvent.
                    Use a brush dipped in solvent for any grooves.
                    I use laquer thinner.
                    If you have access to compressed air then use it.

                    Both parts must be clean and dry.
                    Oil will follow oil, so if you leave some on, then the new oil will follow it, under your new gasket and right out of the engine.

                    Apply the sealant so that it sticks up, do not use too much.
                    If you do it will end up inside the engine and could block an oil passage.

                    Regular silicone sealant has to "skin over".
                    This means that you apply it to a clean dry surface and wait.
                    When you can touch it without it sticking to your finger is is almost ready.
                    Wait a couple of minutes more.
                    You can use a hooby or exacto knife to trim the inside of any excess now.

                    I assemble the parts gently with one bolt already through a hole.
                    Line it up and start it.

                    Keep the cover angled up away from the engine and slip another bolt in as far away from the first as you can.
                    Hopefully on a diagonal from it.
                    Then gently lower the cover and engage that bolt a couple of turns.

                    This lets you settle the cover down straight and true.
                    Try not to wiggle it sideways, or the gasket may roll out.

                    Then bolt the pieces together finger-tight only.
                    Put all the bolts in and make them even but not tight.
                    You want to have some "squish" left to tighten into.
                    Put a dab of sealant on the outside for reference.

                    Once the reference dab is dry and hard, go ahead and torque the bolts down in the correct order.

                    Remove the test dab and your done.

                    Read the tube - you may have to wait 24 hours before starting the bike and putting pressure on your new gaskets.

                    Mick M
                    Futurama: I Dated a Robot (#3.15)
                    "I am Lucy Liu. Give me your spines."

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                    • #11
                      Hey, I am having a problem. On the crankcase that holds the other end of the clutch cable, I have taken it off and when the bike is in gear it doesn't move with the clutch lever out. But, when I put the case back on and line up the dowel the reacts when the clutch is pulled the bike will move in gear without the clutch lever pulled in. Any ideas fellas?

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                      • #12
                        Nevermind I found the adjustment

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                        • #13
                          I hate to post a reply into a "Sticky" but I think that it should be noted if the case bolts are to be torqued or just hand tightened.
                          My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

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                          • #14
                            They have torque specs but hand tight will work if you don't go gorilla on them.
                            Chris

                            Originally posted by jetmerritt
                            Save up for great gear and dress for the fall before you ride. If you can't afford good quality gear, don't ride. It's like saying you can't afford seat belts for your car. There are just no laws to make gear mandatory.

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                            • #15
                              I was literaly about to post a question about those bolts untill i found this thread...thanks guys
                              "Riding a motorcycle on today's highways, you have to ride in a very defensive manner. You have to be a good rider and you have to have both hands and both feet on the controls at all times."- Evel Knievel

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