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Thank you KR!!!

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  • Thank you KR!!!

    Well, I finally scraped some money together and did some improvements on my 2006 Kat 600. I have been doing a ton of reading on KR and took some valueable KR advice

    I bought myself a K&N and a dynojet kit... J/K

    I ordered the Ivan's jet kit for the 98+ Kat 600 and I did the poor man's version of the timing advancer and I have a new bike. My Kat only has 5000Km on it, but since I bought it it has had poor throttle response, flat spots and a very angry hornet in the airbox between 5-6 RPM.

    Well, I now have excellent throttle response in all ranges, great roll on in the bottom end, no surging at low RPM -low speed and the angry hornet has left! Bar buzz is definitely lower in the 5-6K range.

    If I ever get another Kat or a friend with one, the Ivan's kit will be the FIRST install.

    I also have been doing a lot of reading and splurged on some new Metzler roadtec Z6's, they will be arriving in a few days. I think it is time to get rid of those 5 year old scrapadams before I end up a road crayon. I love twisties!

    Being in Canada, the Ivan's kit was a little nasty for cost, but I feel it is worth every penny. It ended up being $130 US plus exchange plus $30 US shipping plus $25 CAD in customs or so. I live near the west coast so that little weightless box had a long way to go.

    As for the Poor man's timing advance - DON'T DO IT!!, I am an auto mechanic of 11 years and I am not happy with how it went. Spend the bucks and get the little wheel that I could have installed in twenty minutes instead of spending an hour and half screwing around! Don't be cheap! As for the timing, by the time I ended up filing the top left hole until there was almost no edge left for the screw to catch I figure I netted about 3 degrees extra advance. I measured the plate at 99mm, then X by Pi = 311mm circumference, then take 360 degrees and divide by 311 = 1.15mm per degree on the edge of the plate. I think I moved mine about 3.5 mm equalling 3 degrees advance. I wanted to play it safe and go a little less than 5 degrees just in case of detonation.

    My exhaust is still stock, but I am hoping to do a slip-on and mid pipe this summer sometime after a couple more paycheques. I will also do the weld romoval mod when I get into that can of worms. IDEA - Has anyone thought of silver soldering the outer part of the flange to the pipe to increase strength in case the weld was poor and the best structural part was removed? Or has everyone had success and no problems with just buzzing the welds out??

    Again thank you all KR rider's for your trial and error, mistakes, wasted money and time and learning to make a perfect Kat the first time and the easy way!

    Jason
    ____________
    Jet

  • #2
    question

    Did you install the kit yourself and was it hard to do so.

    Comment


    • #3
      An Ivans Jet kit was one of the things I meant to buy over the winter, I think that'll be the next mod to the Kat.
      Kyle

      Comment


      • #4
        a jet kit, especially Ivan's is literally one of the easiest things too do.

        Comment


        • #5
          how much do they go for and is it something a basic mechanic can do like myself im pretty good with motors and stuff

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by cordani85 View Post
            Did you install the kit yourself and was it hard to do so.

            I assume you are talking about the jet kit, and yes I did it myself, but like I said, I am an experienced mechanic. It was not that hard - I don't think. Tools needed were pretty minimal, but the worst was a couple of philips screws on the float bowls were a little stuck.

            Getting the carbs out was a little bit of a chore, but I didn't bother to pull the fairing either. I am still getting to know this bike, so I am learning too.

            The kit installed as per instructions and ran perfect with the settings it came with, no fiddling necessary.

            Hope that helps, best advice, if you are not sure about your abilities, maybe take it to an experienced buddy or get a shop to put it in. Also my carbs were spotless but depending on the age of your bike, you might want to do a full clean which can be a bit of a chore.

            J
            ____________
            Jet

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            • #7
              well i have a 2000 kat 600 motor im putting in a 1989 750 and i figure the time would be now to do the kit before i put the motor in the motor only had 4000 miles on it

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                a jet kit, especially Ivan's is literally one of the easiest things too do.
                Yeah, BUT, if a guy who can't wrench, peels some screw heads out, has it half apart and THEN takes it to you it will cost them more... and no one is happy. I am fortunate to have a good bike mechanic in the next town, but I know they are hard to find.

                I do all my own stuff instead of the stealerships, but I have a journeyman ticket in auto's. It all started by being broke trying to fix my own junk on a budget!
                ____________
                Jet

                Comment


                • #9
                  yea i can prolly do it but i will prolly just check out a bike shop in town and see what it will run.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by cordani85 View Post
                    well i have a 2000 kat 600 motor im putting in a 1989 750 and i figure the time would be now to do the kit before i put the motor in the motor only had 4000 miles on it
                    post when you get it done! I have been daydreaming about a 750 engine upgrade one day, if my wife starts coming along for some 2 up riding, a little extra torque might be nice but I really don't know how much difference there is in 150 cc's.

                    Anyone??
                    ____________
                    Jet

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Congrats on the jetkit -- it was everything I said it was, wasn't it?
                      Originally posted by jetmerritt View Post
                      I also have been doing a lot of reading and splurged on some new Metzler roadtec Z6's, they will be arriving in a few days. I think it is time to get rid of those 5 year old scrapadams before I end up a road crayon. I love twisties!
                      You will love the change...

                      Originally posted by jetmerritt View Post
                      As for the Poor man's timing advance - DON'T DO IT!!, I am an auto mechanic of 11 years and I am not happy with how it went. Spend the bucks and get the little wheel that I could have installed in twenty minutes instead of spending an hour and half screwing around! Don't be cheap! As for the timing, by the time I ended up filing the top left hole until there was almost no edge left for the screw to catch I figure I netted about 3 degrees extra advance. I measured the plate at 99mm, then X by Pi = 311mm circumference, then take 360 degrees and divide by 311 = 1.15mm per degree on the edge of the plate. I think I moved mine about 3.5 mm equalling 3 degrees advance. I wanted to play it safe and go a little less than 5 degrees just in case of detonation.
                      FYI for the others -- I sell the bolt-on advancer for $49 + shipping...

                      Originally posted by jetmerritt View Post
                      IDEA - Has anyone thought of silver soldering the outer part of the flange to the pipe to increase strength in case the weld was poor and the best structural part was removed? Or has everyone had success and no problems with just buzzing the welds out??
                      I've dremelled/ground out about a half dozen Kat headers so far, and have never had an issue with the weld strength afterwards. The penetration of the welds seem very good, it's just the excess build-up that's crud. I'd be leery of welding the outside of the flange because of how the part that bolts to the engine needs to press on it (not to mention that silver-solder wouldn't have the strength of a true mig weld, AND would introduce a potential dielectric source for future failure).

                      For those considering the same grinding procedure, you can find my write up here:
                      http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/header.html

                      Originally posted by jetmerritt View Post
                      post when you get it done! I have been daydreaming about a 750 engine upgrade one day, if my wife starts coming along for some 2 up riding, a little extra torque might be nice but I really don't know how much difference there is in 150 cc's.

                      Anyone??
                      it's not just 150 cc's of change, there's also a decrease of compression ratio that's significant (11.3:1 on the 600 vs. 10.5:1 on the 750). If you're going to bolt in an larger engine, go big with the Bandit 1200 engines instead.

                      Cheers,
                      =-= The CyberPoet

                      __________________________________________________ ________
                      CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
                      The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.
                      Last edited by The CyberPoet; 03-26-2009, 11:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
                      Remember The CyberPoet

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