Turbo Blue

[OOMPA164]

I'm currently running 93 in my 1991 Kat. I tried 87 and it ran like crap. My ? to everyone is......What is the consensous on Turbo Blue race fuel? I have a Vance&Hines Exhaust and pod air filters. Would it be worth the cost of running this fuel?? Would it be any different from running 93?? Would it "melt" my engine...etc??

[mreedohio]

dont do it.

[hardlydangerous]

race fuel runs colder and richer then pump fuels
that said it will cost you HP
The higher the flash point the more compression is needed to combust the fuel, too high and the engine will have a harder time igniting the mixture,
This causes the bike to run richer as there is more unburt fuel. the ruicher the engine runs the less power it will make.
A lean engine is always morepowerful... too lean and you start suffering from overheating and detonation
Can it cause damage? YEP running race fuel in a low compression engine will cause major carbon buildup. Carbon deposits form hot spots in the combustion chamber and these hot spots can cause pre-ignition should you ever use a lower octane fuel.

The difference between 87 and 93 octane can not possibly cause an engine to run badly. it may cause it to ping/knock at extreme high spoeeds if you have bumped up the compression somehow....

[SilentTJ]

dunno... i got an 04, run it on 87... always have. runs perfectly fine to me. i think most people run 87 as well, never see many people say they use higher octanes

[IndyGunner]

Katanas are low(er) compression sportbikes. They are MEANT to run on regular 87 fuel. If your bike runs like **** you need to clean/sync your carbs and tune your valves.

[arsenic]

Katanas are low(er) compression sportbikes. They are MEANT to run on regular 87 fuel. If your bike runs like **** you need to clean/sync your carbs and tune your valves.

[scottynoface]

The difference between 87 and 93 octane can not possibly cause an engine to run badly.

Hardly I take your words as true as the bible when it comes to mechanics but I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one. My Lincoln requires 93 and will barely run on 87, spits sputters and dies. My bike requires 93, and though it will run on 87, it performs horrendously in the lower revs.

Conversely, my mom's 1998 Durango ran on 87, and my dad always put 93 in his 1997 Bonneville. He put a tank of 93 in the Durango and it stalled at every light. Now, none of these vehicles were probably at the top of their game but still, it's worth noting.

To the OP: It's not worth running anything greater than 87 octane. You will see no benefit, although when my carbs got dirty I would always switch to 93 for the added detergents.

[IndyGunner]

Hardly I take your words as true as the bible when it comes to mechanics but I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one. My Lincoln requires 93 and will barely run on 87, spits sputters and dies. My bike requires 93, and though it will run on 87, it performs horrendously in the lower revs.

Conversely, my mom's 1998 Durango ran on 87, and my dad always put 93 in his 1997 Bonneville. He put a tank of 93 in the Durango and it stalled at every light. Now, none of these vehicles were probably at the top of their game but still, it's worth noting.

To the OP: It's not worth running anything greater than 87 octane. You will see no benefit, although when my carbs got dirty I would always switch to 93 for the added detergents.

Really the only difference between 93 and 87 is the anti-nock agents added to the gas. Yes, some have more detergents, but that has nothing to do with engine performance.

The recommended gasoline for katanas is regular octane. In fact, in most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your bike perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. Your best bet: listen to your owner's manual.


Unless your engine is knocking, buying higher octane gasoline is a waste of money, too. Premium gas costs 15 to 20 cents per gallon more than regular. That can add up to $100 or more a year in extra costs. Studies indicate that altogether, riders may be spending hundreds of millions of dollars each year for higher octane gas than they need.

[katanawarrior]

Remove the pod filters put the stock back in. If it still runs like crap, install the recommended jets for the V&H. Either of these two options will help you more then 5$ / Gallon race fuel :

[arsenic]

oh, I didn't notice he had pod filters, ok, that explains a lot.

[OOMPA164]

I appreciate the input. The kid I bought it off of only ran the bike 500 miles last year and it sat all winter. I figure it may have been that the carbs needed cleaned (as you said) or bad gas. I ran the first tank through and delt with it and then ran a second tank of 93 with a can of seafoam through and I noticed an extreme difference. So maybe it was not the different octane after all. Maybe seafoam cleaned whatever needed cleaned. It runs like a raped ape now. I just was wondering. I have not had any experience with race gas so I figured I would ask first. Thanks to everyone!!!

[IndyGunner]

oh, I didn't notice he had pod filters, ok, that explains a lot.

I was thinking the same thing I completely missed him saying that.

[scottynoface]

Really the only difference between 93 and 87 is the anti-nock agents added to the gas. Yes, some have more detergents, but that has nothing to do with engine performance.

You can say that all you want, but until my vehicles stop proving the case

[IndyGunner]

You can say that all you want, but until my vehicles stop proving the case

No, your lincoln is probably running like chit and thats the only fuel that can sustain its life....

Heres the FACTS

What are octane ratings?

Octane ratings measure a gasoline's ability to resist engine knock, a rattling or pinging sound that results from premature ignition of the compressed fuel-air mixture in one or more cylinders. Most gas stations offer three octane grades: regular (usually 87 octane), mid-grade (usually 89 octane) and premium (usually 92 or 93). The ratings must be posted on bright yellow stickers on each gasoline pump.

What's the right octane level for your car?

Check your owner's manual to determine the right octane level for your car. Regular octane is recommended for most cars. However, some cars with high compression engines, like sports cars and certain luxury cars, need mid-grade or premium gasoline to prevent knock.

How can you tell if you're using the right octane level? Listen to your car's engine. If it doesn't knock when you use the recommended octane, you're using the right grade of gasoline.

Will higher octane gasoline clean your engine better?

As a rule, high octane gasoline does not outperform regular octane in preventing engine deposits from forming, in removing them, or in cleaning your car's engine. In fact, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires that all octane grades of all brands of gasoline contain engine cleaning detergent additives to protect against the build-up of harmful levels of engine deposits during the expected life of your car.

Should you ever switch to a higher octane gasoline?

A few car engines may knock or ping - even if you use the recommended octane. If this happens, try switching to the next highest octane grade. In many cases, switching to the mid-grade or premium-grade gasoline will eliminate the knock. If the knocking or pinging continues after one or two fill-ups, you may need a tune-up or some other repair. After that work is done, go back to the lowest octane grade at which your engine runs without knocking.

Is knocking harmful?

Occasional light knocking or pinging won't harm your engine, and doesn't indicate a need for higher octane. But don't ignore severe knocking. A heavy or persistent knock can lead to engine damage.

Is all "premium" or "regular" gasoline the same?

The octane rating of gasoline marked "premium" or "regular" is not consistent across the country. One state may require a minimum octane rating of 92 for all premium gasoline, while another may allow 90 octane to be called premium. To make sure you know what you're buying, check the octane rating on the yellow sticker on the gas pump instead of relying on the name "premium" or "regular."

For More Information

If you're concerned about the accuracy of an octane label - or if you don't see a yellow octane sticker on a gasoline pump, write: Consumer Response Center, Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580.

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive, and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters consumer complaints into the Consumer Sentinel Network, a secure online database and investigative tool used by hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.

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There is a misconception in the world that high octane fuel will make your car go faster or run better. This is not true. The octane rating only rates the fuel’s resistance to engine knocking.

Knocking or pinging is a sound that an engine makes when the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chambers ignites too early. (Also known as pre-detination). Although slight knocking or pinging won’t damage your engine, loud knocking can cause damage and should not be allowed to continue. It can actually burn a hole right through the piston over time. The solution is to use a high octane fuel, which is actually more difficult to ignite, despite the misconception that high octane fuel is more powerful. When the fuel is more difficult to burn, early ignition is eliminated, and with it the knocking or pinging.

The octane level required by an engine is determined by its compression ratio: higher-compression engines require higher-octane fuel. For example, a basic sedan generally only requires the standard octane fuel offered at gas stations, while a high-performance sports car or race car may require a high octane fuel. The owner’s manual lists information on the type of fuel you should use in your car. The reason behind this , the more advanced the engine timing can be, the more power the engine can produce. In most engines today the timing is controlled by the computer that receives a signal from a knock sensor. The engine will only advance the engine timing up to the point of knocking. So if you raise this point with higher octane, then the computer will allow the engine timing to advance further than using lower octane thus delivering more power.

Gas stations typically offer three different octane levels of fuel: regular, mid-grade, and premium. The regular grade generally has the octane level required by most cars, and mid-grade and premium are each a step up. Then, of course, there is the super high octane fuel available at race tracks, which is designed for the extremely high compression ratios that race car engines have. Pretty much all of the fuel grades commercially available have cleaning additives in them, so you need not choose a high octane fuel with the idea that it will clean your engine better.

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[The CyberPoet]

I'm currently running 93 in my 1991 Kat. I tried 87 and it ran like crap.

Any clue whether the engine has been worked over with a rebuild (WiseCo) that turned it into a 771cc, 813cc or other conversion that would have raised the compression levels? If so, then you may *need* higher octane fuels to compensate.
BUT for a stock Kat engine, if it doesn't run well on 87/88 (try an upscale brand like Shell to test it), either the fuel was crud, or there is an excess of carbon or sulfated ash build-up inside your engine.

My ? to everyone is......What is the consensous on Turbo Blue race fuel?

Most Turbo Blue fuel products contain lead, which your engine is specifically designed to run without (they only offer two unleaded fuels - Turbo Blue Unleaded, and Turbo Blue Unleaded Plus -- both of which are absolute wastes of $$ on the Kat engines even with the over-bore kits, and both of which are illegal for on-road use in the USA).

I have a Vance&Hines Exhaust and pod air filters. Would it be worth the cost of running this fuel?? Would it be any different from running 93?? Would it "melt" my engine...etc??

The presence of oxygenators in their unleaded fuels may induce some piston damages over extended use, but I doubt you're be likely to see any damage from a single tank-full, unless the engine already has other damages present that will exacerbate the problem.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

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