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Originally posted by ray90813
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If I'm interpreting your question right, I'd say yes, that's normal. It's not like a car, where it'll jump 5 feet and stall if you drop the clutch at idle. The bike doesn't have quite the rotating mass in the engine to do that. Nor does it have a big heavy flywheel adding to that effect. If I drop the clutch in 1st at idle, the bike moves maybe 3-4 inches.Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.
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I have another question, i attempted to synchronize my carbs using four vacuum gauges I borrowed from the guys at work, but when i hook them up the need fluctuates really bad at idle, at what rpm should it stabilize, or am i just using the wrong equipment to synchronize my carbs.Comment
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oh and another thing i noticed it popping back through the intake when i rev the engine to about 6000 rpm, have no clue why.Comment
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you need to have little "cut off" valves. You need to open the valves so that the gauge can just barely see the vaccuum and barely shake. The "cut off" valve needs to be in between the the gauge and the vacuum nipple on the carburator. The last time i did it I would open the valve and close it to get a snap shot and then adjust the screw between the 2 carbs. You have to play with the valves they can stick, so you will have a non-shaking needle but you just have a fixed pressure "vacuum" in the line.
Also look at Trincs "sticky" on the top of mechanics 101 page. Trinc's page goes through various things.Is Effingham a swear word?Comment
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RPM for sync'ing carbs should be 1750 - 1800, engine hot. Use the idle thumbwheel to crank up the idle for the sync procedure and then drop it again after you have them sync'd. Yes, it's normal for them to fluctuate, as each cylinder draws in and closes up again -- some sync tools have a method for stabilizing this somewhat -- but since you have 4 gauges you shouldn't need to worry about it -- just compare the ranges to each other.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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