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**SweetLou** · 06-22-2005, 08:31 PM

On the bottom of the carbs is a cable with a dial at the end, this is your idle adjustment. It should lead to the left side (if your sitting on the bike, the clutch side) Try turning it to see if it will lower the rpms, or when the carbs are off, try turning it to see to make sure it is turning.

**Zen** · 06-22-2005, 11:46 PM

On the bottom of the carbs is a cable with a dial at the end, this is your idle adjustment. It should lead to the left side (if your sitting on the bike, the clutch side) Try turning it to see if it will lower the rpms, or when the carbs are off, try turning it to see to make sure it is turning.

yep, tried that, still revs like crazy. also tried the choke adjustment to no avail, still out of control.

could it possibly be an error in the way we are reconnecting the tank? we didn't exactly label the hoses when we pulled them, but it seems obvious that there are 2 fuel lines (metal wrapped, with spring clips), a vacuum line that goes in the middle of the fuel tap, and a vent hose. Any mistakes there?

**md86** · 06-23-2005, 05:14 PM

Mine did that a couple years ago after a carb cleaning , and it turned out I'd forgotten to close the bowl drains all the way ...

**Mojoe** · 06-23-2005, 06:34 PM

is it possible that you have the throttle cable hooked up wrong? are you sure the end of it is screwed in enough? take the tank and air breather off, then slide one of the slides on the carb up all the way and look inside to see if the butterfly is closed at the back of the carb.

**Zen** · 06-29-2005, 02:21 AM

Revving fixed

Well, got the revving problem fixed. Turns out it was the throttle cable that was waaay out of adjustment (funny, because we didn't change anything in the work we did, but anyways, it's fixed now). thanks for the help guys.

valves adjusted, checked carb synch (wasn't too far off), and most importantly, found out that only one of the four throttle slides was actually sliding. I think I saw another thread on this topic, but didn't see any suggestions other than replacing them. Suzuki wants $50 a piece for the diaphragm/slide assembly. Can't see anything wrong with them - we cleaned and lubed them, checked for pinholes, and made sure they seated properly. With loads of WD-40, we were able to get them to lift with air pressure for a couple days, but now they're back to not lifting.

What do you think it could be and how to remedy? not sealing around the lip? rubber on diaphragm too old and inflexible? leakage in other areas?

**The CyberPoet** · 06-29-2005, 06:54 PM

Re: Revving fixed

Originally posted by Zen

I think I saw another thread on this topic, but didn't see any suggestions other than replacing them. Suzuki wants $50 a piece for the diaphragm/slide assembly. Can't see anything wrong with them - we cleaned and lubed them, checked for pinholes, and made sure they seated properly. With loads of WD-40, we were able to get them to lift with air pressure for a couple days, but now they're back to not lifting.

What do you think it could be and how to remedy? not sealing around the lip? rubber on diaphragm too old and inflexible? leakage in other areas?

You can try removing them, cleaning them with dish detergent and warm water, then dry thoroughly and finally spray it down with a bit of spray silicone lubricant. While they're apart, take a toothbrush and some metal polish (or ajax in a pinch) and clean the hell out of the metal it moves over to remove any surface imperfections or corrosion that might be biting.
If that doesn't cut it and you can't find any vacuum leaks, you may want to try locating some weaker springs or cutting down the existing springs by 1/4 of their length. And/or ordering replacements -- but not from Suzuki -- order them directly from Mikuni or from a Mikuni-specialized distributor (such as http://www.sudco.com/ ).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**djturnz** · 06-29-2005, 07:26 PM

My cable did the exact same thing. When I un hooked it from the carbs I pulled the sheath out of the end cap and when I reassembled it I didn't push it in far enough. My friend came to help and heasked me three times if I did anything with the cable before I went "oh shit!". Problem solved. It was frustrating.

**Zen** · 07-01-2005, 11:00 AM

Yeah, it was very frustrating trying to figure out what was causing the revving. At first we thought it was something we did so we backtracked meticulously, then...we hit the forums

Poet - good suggestions, thanks. I'll give them a try in the order you mentioned. Kills me that this thing putt-putts around when it should be roaring...

one thought: any consequences to using a bead of silicone or grease around the lip to improve the seal? How about trying to "revive" the rubber (not that it's all dried up or anything, but just to minimize flex resistance) with some Armour All - anyone try this?

**Mojoe** · 07-01-2005, 11:05 AM

i think I would just break down and get a new one. isn't $50 worth the knowledge that it is done right and it isn't going to leave you stalled beside the road somewhere?

**The CyberPoet** · 07-01-2005, 12:47 PM

Originally posted by Zen

one thought: any consequences to using a bead of silicone or grease around the lip to improve the seal? How about trying to "revive" the rubber (not that it's all dried up or anything, but just to minimize flex resistance) with some Armour All - anyone try this?

Armor all may contain other compounds that don't help... I'm not sure. I'd use straight silicone spray (no grease, because it gets gummy over time).
As for the silicone bead, I'd suggest some RTV (something specific to gasoline exposure).

Originally posted by Mojoe

i think I would just break down and get a new one. isn't $50 worth the knowledge that it is done right and it isn't going to leave you stalled beside the road somewhere?

+1

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

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