[jdm5770]

Sorry mate i have to disagree on that for 3 reasons
First .. even if there is some internal damage its got to be worth ripping it down & rebuilding it, the cost of doing that + the price he's paid for it will be far cheaper than buying another unknown engine, a bottom crancase is not a lot of cash for a start & its an easy job to swap, all thats needed is some mechanical aptitude

Secondly... ive seen a lot worse than that, repaired & running within a week, i'd be a bit more worried if it had taken a hit on the other side due to the possibility of damaging the crank ( they dont tend to bend when dropped on the starter clutch side)

Thirdly even if he does not rip it down & repairs it with the engine pretty much together he could end up with a superb engine for less cash that some folk spend on a night out

You should NEVER scrap an engine untill its proven to be beond economical repair IMO

[scottynoface]

You should NEVER scrap an engine untill its proven to be beyond economical repair IMO

Yes, but remember to some people (like myself) 20-40+ hours of work is not worth a 200-500 dollar engine.

[kidblooper]

i'm with scotty on that one.. i would have to say if arsenic has the part you need for 50 bux and it takes care of your probs. your still gettin out cheap.. i wouldn't break it down until you've actually tried it.it is a zuki motor although might take a little work , it would probably withstand the blow.

[tone]

Yes, but remember to some people (like myself) 20-40+ hours of work is not worth a 200-500 dollar engine.

I see what your saying fella but in less than a couple of hours you could get a very good idea of what it needs apart from the obvious,
thats including much tea drinking btw it probably wont need a full strip tbh

After that, if its salvageable its around 8 hours work & you have an engine that goes for £500 or there abouts over here, subtract your costs & you have a bargain

i'd give 4 times what he paid for that motor if it wasnt for the cost of shipping, you wouldnt even get the bare head for the equivilent of $25 over here, not even close

[arsenic]

tone, do honestly think that's 8 hours of work for someone that never done this before? **** that's not even 8 hours for you supermen

[The CyberPoet]

Sorry mate i have to disagree on that for 3 reasons
First .. even if there is some internal damage its got to be worth ripping it down & rebuilding it, the cost of doing that + the price he's paid for it will be far cheaper than buying another unknown engine, a bottom crancase is not a lot of cash for a start & its an easy job to swap, all thats needed is some mechanical aptitude

I truly appreciate that you disagree...

BUT I was working on the basis of the following:

(A) He had to ask about the repair AND the rust. This implies to me that he has very limited mechanical skill (nothing insulting, just a statement of fact), and as such, is thus likely to have very limited tools, work-space, etc.

(B) A bottom-end tear-down & repair is not a first-time-around home-mechanic's typical undertaking and is likely to leave him with a very bad taste in his mouth if he gets over his head. Decent tools alone (torque wrench, sockets, run-out measuring set-up) required seem to be potentially beyond his total budget, based on statements he's made.

(C) He would come out ahead financially on the whole deal, meaning the purchase was still a step-up in general towards the goal he has. You can get lucky and find working, known-good air-oil cooled suzuki engines for $100 at times in the USA, and this time of year is particularly rife with them compared to most (buyers tend to raise the demand level in the fall for those who want winter-long projects; raise demand in late spring when returning to a bike, and raise demand in late summer due to wrecking/damaging existing engines -- rest of the times prices are fairly low).

What is right for you is not always right for others.

In theory, he could also part out sub-portions of the engine and get even further ahead (financially), but again, that will take tools & work-space that I felt were unlikely to be available to him at this instant.

Additionally, you have to balance the time+cost vs. income basis -- if it would take him $200 in tools & supplies, plus 30 hours, it would make far more sense for most to work 30 hours at any prevailing wage, and use that income plus the $200 saved towards a known-good solution already ready to bolt in.



Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

______________________
CyberPoet's KR Maint Supplies & Upgrade Specials
Suzuki Stratosphere - 6 Cylinders, the new Katana?
The Best Motorcycle Metal Billet Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[clint1972]

Well said Cyberpoet... I would use patience and look around for another engine that is not as damaged, I swapped a broken engine with a used and had it running in less than a day. If you do not mind headaches then go with the broken one. Good luck.

[RaiderRC]

thanks for all the input guys. I am a decently mechanically inclined person just not for bike. I 4x4 which i've done valve seals swapped out countless head gaskets due to stupid supra motor problems and pretty much taken my truck down to nuts and bolts and put it back together. Do i qualify?? not as a bike mech


This bike has been a low low low budget build, i just wanted to get into motorcycle. i started with a pre98 katana 600 because it was the cheapest cool looking full fairing motorcycle with the best insurance cost. i soon found out all my rich friends cbr's were a little faster. But lets be honest in all reality its whoever cracks the throttle first. and doing anything over 100 mph is just being stupid. But speed is in my blood and being on a hardcore budget i have been shopping for a bandit 1200 motor for almost a year. If i try to fix it and it works YEAH! if not i can sell the parts out of it and get some of my cost back. I don't know about the 100 bandit motors i live in oregon... their isn't ANYTHING


It all boils down to how much money you have and what kind of time and effort "YOU" are willing to put into it. I've got the effort just need the parts. as far as i can tell the rust doesn't look pitted but we will sand blast it and see what comes out i mean these parts mainly just get the bike started right? So mechanialy they aren't vital unless they did get thrashed and are wobbly... but i won't really now that till i get it started which would require the case to get fixed first. at least thats my assumption



thanks for the all input guys maybe i can throw out a cracked housing write up. and if you want to see how cheap i really am look at my integrated rear tail light its classy and functional

[The CyberPoet]

If you've stripped apart a truck engine, you have the basics down, and probably have the tools (metric sockets, wrenches, torque wrench). Might need a run-out micrometer and a few specialty tools, but in general, it'd mean you probably have 95% of what you need in terms of both tools and talent (can read a manual, right? Factory manual is very good for these things and can be found online in PDF format).

It all boils down to how much money you have and what kind of time and effort "YOU" are willing to put into it. I've got the effort just need the parts. as far as i can tell the rust doesn't look pitted but we will sand blast it and see what comes out i mean these parts mainly just get the bike started right? So mechanialy they aren't vital unless they did get thrashed and are wobbly... but i won't really now that till i get it started which would require the case to get fixed first. at least thats my assumption

My concern would be whether the shaft that rusted part is attached to got slammed hard enough to either bend it or to distort the parts the crank shaft rides on, and thus no longer be true. The rusted parts themselves should be able to simply be cleaned of the rust, as long as the gear teeth are good and the body of the part isn't cracked/damaged visibly...

Good luck and keep us posted on which way you decide to go.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

______________________
CyberPoet's KR Maint Supplies & Upgrade Specials
Suzuki Stratosphere - 6 Cylinders, the new Katana?
The Best Motorcycle Metal Billet Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[tone]

tone, do honestly think that's 8 hours of work for someone that never done this before? **** that's not even 8 hours for you supermen

Wtf are you on about boy ?
If you'd read the post properly instead of trying to score points you would have seen i'd written a couple of hours to check it out & 8 hours to stick it together i also mentioned it probably wouldnt need a full strip

The gentleman has bought an engine which he knows has some damage, so he knows what he's getting into, from that i read he has some mechanical skill & is confident enough to tackle the job or he wouldnt have bothered the only real question was about repairing crancase damage

wake up fella

No problem cyber
He asked for an opinion & i gave mine, the question was about repairing crankcase damage & i answered based on my expreiance with doing such repairs & the fact that i assumed that anyone buying a $25 engine is looking for a reasonably cheap easy fix rather than a full rebuild to factory spec
cheers tone

I truly appreciate that you disagree...



Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[arsenic]

hey did you just buy that starter clutch I had?