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Does anyone make a temp guage for Kats? I know I have one for my car and such and has proven to be an engine saver in the past. Does anyone make a mod to install a temp guage on a kat.
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"That whenever any form of government becomes destructive to these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness." - Declaration of Independance -
It would have to be a oil temp for the newer Kats. I would like one.Bike is sold -
iut would have to be an oil temp for all kats wouldn't it? since they were all air cooled...Help Support Katriders.com via Motorcyclegear.com
"That whenever any form of government becomes destructive to these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness." - Declaration of IndependanceComment
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in the past i have seen temp gauge for the air cooled ysr that might be a place to start lookingit would not be any fun if it was easy! but does it have to be this much fun!!
Give A Person Expetations To Live Up To Not to A Reputition To Live Down !!Comment
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EDITED:
I carry a weatherproof/waterproof oil temp gauge solution for our Kats. See my special offers or PM/email me.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Not that secret CPPersonally, I'll be drilling out the oil pan when I install one along with another special mod (still *secret*) that I'm planning on doing on the oil pan come next oil change.
I'm in the middle off modding the complete dashboard, did forget about the Aim Dashcron ST1 (too expensive, with loom and sensors 1500$)
The new dash will inc.
fuelmeter, oilpressure, oiltemp, cylinderheadtemp, odometer, tripmeter, total distance, programmable tressholds for warninglights, gear-index, max rpm and max speed, time the LCD will be backlighted in blue (makes the bike faster)
Next too the LCD-panel I will mount an ana/digi steppermotordriven tachometer.(allso blue backlighted)
Above the LCD and tachometer I want led-indicators for alarm, highbeam, turn signals, oiltemp, oilpressure, shiftlight aso.Comment
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You should find a backer and make aftermarket dashes for various motorcycles for a living... sorry, I'm too poor at this instant to consider it.Originally posted by kwebbel
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Figures. JC Whintey's page is down right now, but hey, if you get a PAPER catalog, you can get 10% off because if it!!!Kan-O-Gixxer!
-89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
-Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
-Ohlins Susupension
-Various Other Mods
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Does anyone know which company makes one with the sender built in the drain plug? This sounds safer than drilling on the oil pan. Aslo, what temp would be considered within the normal operating range and what would be considered too high (turn if off and let it cool down)?Comment
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Actualy, I would think it would be better to do it ON the oil pan, and it wouldn't be to hard to drill it. If you were to do it at the drain plug, I would think you would have a higher chance if messing something up with all the hot oil coming through the hose, and yo would have to do it at the intake, rather than the out take hose. Doing it on the pan, you will have the actualy temp of what it is in the engine area, plus less chance of a Hose coming off because there is added stuff on it. I dunno, just my opinion. Remember, the oil pan is aluminum, which is soft, and easy to drill.Kan-O-Gixxer!
-89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
-Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
-Ohlins Susupension
-Various Other Mods
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I don't remember who makes the oil pan drain bolt sensor, but I'm sure someone around here does (or you might find it through a google search).Originally posted by DINGBAT
Personally, I'd rather drill the oil pan from the side, but that's a matter of choice. The oil pan gasket is $13, and it's about 45 minutes to remove the pan and reinstall it (including dropping the headers). There's an advantage in that you finally get to clear out all the metal shavings from when the engine was broken in from the honeycomb pattern in the bottom of the pan...
Remember to figure out where you want to place the sender before you drop the pan, and mark that location with a permanent marker -- you need to have enough space on the outside for the exterior part of the sender to stick out without hitting the fairings or other obstructions, while ensuring it's still under the low line of the oil fill level. Obviously, a smaller sender is better for this use. USE A TORQUE WRENCH WHEN REINSTALLING THE OIL PAN BOLTS!
Temperatures:
Expect oil operating temperatures to vary between 150 degrees (C) and 180 degrees (C) at the oil pan (hot day, full load, highway driving followed by stop-and-go traffic light back-ups), and pay attention to the particular oil's vapor point. I don't have all the different brand's flash points handy, but I do know that Royal Purple flashes above 204 degrees (C), Castrol GPS flashes at 210 to 212 degrees (C) (depending on which viscosity you got); Castrol R4 flashes at 208 degrees (C); Mobil MX4T flashes at 253 degrees (C); and Mobil V-Twin flashes at 270 degrees (C). Note that these are all top-of-the-line synthetic or semi-synthetic motorcycle-specific oils, and the flash points for typical car oils may be substancially lower.
I'd say that if your temps are running above 180 (C) at the oil sump, you're probably running way too hot and need to cool it down (either by reducing your RPM's while maintaining a good steady forward speed to move more air over the engine, or by shutting down altogether & waiting).
By the same token, you need to make sure that the oil temp gauge covers a range of at least 80 - 200 degrees (C) or about 175 - 400 degrees (F). If the gauge doesn't range above 350 degrees (F), it probably won't be suitable, because 350 degrees (F) is still within conceivable operating range on a hot day under full load.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Nope I wanna have a unique bike 8)Originally posted by The CyberPoetComment
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That is within operating range.. ouch... one would thing at that temp you should start to worry about seizing and such.. I know anything above 250 on the camaro and I am thinking about shutting it down quickly...Originally posted by The CyberPoetHelp Support Katriders.com via Motorcyclegear.com
"That whenever any form of government becomes destructive to these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness." - Declaration of IndependanceComment
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The Camero is water-cooled, and so shouldn't arrive at 250+ degrees (F) at any time (unless too much of the water/coolant mix is gone -- if you're getting to 250, I'd look for a bigger/thicker/more efficient radiator design).Originally posted by zleviticus
As for seizing, I'd worry about seizing about 20% under the flash temp of the oil, because you have to figure the oil in the sump should be cooler than the oil in the heads by quite a bit. Obviously, how much oil the bike moves plays into it (figuring a '97 moves around 4.7 gallons per minutes, and '01 moves 8.8 gallons per minute; the '01 should be sufficiently cooler at the head compared to the '97 for the same indicated temp at the sump). Where the oil ejectors are plays into also; I don't know about the pre-98's, but I do know the 2000 & later have oil ejectors spraying the underside of the pistons to help shed the heat from combustion.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Obviously, how much oil the bike moves plays into it (figuring a '97 moves around 4.7 gallons per minutes, and '01 moves 8.8 gallons per minute; the '01 should be sufficiently cooler at the head compared to the '97 for the same indicated temp at the sump).
I just read this and was wondering,Cyber, is there a upgrade for the pre98 to push that 8.8 gallons?TDA Racing/Motorsports
1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
Who knows what is next?
Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192Comment
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