i would like to here some feedback on this topic
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While in theory you could increase the compression ratio by milling down the heads minorly, it's a very unusual mod to do because unlike water cooled engines, our heads don't normally ever warp (and thus there is no premade excuse to have the head milled, unlike the case with overheating a water-cooled system). Instead, what some riders choose to do is the much more common WiseCo brand bore-over kits (for the 750 and 1100 engines), which both increase compression and displacement, or a flat-out engine swap (replacing the stock 600 with a 750/1100/1200 engine).
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by SweetLouHow much extra HP are we talking about with the bore kit for a 1100?
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetWhile in theory you could increase the compression ratio by milling down the heads minorly, it's a very unusual mod to do because unlike water cooled engines, our heads don't normally ever warp (and thus there is no premade excuse to have the head milled, unlike the case with overheating a water-cooled system). Instead, what some riders choose to do is the much more common WiseCo brand bore-over kits (for the 750 and 1100 engines), which both increase compression and displacement, or a flat-out engine swap (replacing the stock 600 with a 750/1100/1200 engine).
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
I will tell you this....it can be expensive. I happened to luck onto a good deal, but I did plenty of research on the cost. Unless you can do the work yourself, expect at least $3-4k just to do the minimum you should do to take advantage of planing the head. The prices I was quoted were between $12-1500 just to have a big bore kit installed and the head ported and polished. Add in carbs (you will need bigger carbs), valve job (makes sense to at least touch them up), exhaust (stock won't cut it), upgrade the ignition.....it all adds up.
If the cost seems too much to do all that, the next best thing (or maybe even better) is to do like Cyber said and do a swap. Lou went from 600 I think, up to an 1100 engine. He will push more hp by doing that than you will get from adding a bigbore kit to a 600. But my real suggestion would be port and polish the head and forget about milling it. It is the easiest and most efficient way to gain a real power boost. Add a jet kit and a good exhaust to that and you will see some very noticeable hp.
Lou....the 1250 kit with the head ported and polished with 38mm carbs will give you roughly 165hp....so I was told. He also could have just been giving me a sales pitch. It might only be 155....I really can't say. If he was being straight...it's around 165.I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetOriginally posted by SweetLouHow much extra HP are we talking about with the bore kit for a 1100?
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetI don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetPost the change in compression rates and the CC displacement and I should be able to rough-estimate a new number.Originally posted by Mojoeyou can do that? i am having a hard time imagining how accurate it can be. if you can add 10-15hp just by jetting, exhaust, ignition, and air-filers....without changing the compression/cc's, how can you get an accurate estimate? You would need at least a 10-15hp margin of error, which can translate into a big difference on a bike. I am not trying to nit-pick or anything, but I would think there would be too many variables to do that.
PS - there is no bore kit for the 600's that I'm aware of.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetOriginally posted by The CyberPoetPost the change in compression rates and the CC displacement and I should be able to rough-estimate a new number.Originally posted by Mojoeyou can do that? i am having a hard time imagining how accurate it can be. if you can add 10-15hp just by jetting, exhaust, ignition, and air-filers....without changing the compression/cc's, how can you get an accurate estimate? You would need at least a 10-15hp margin of error, which can translate into a big difference on a bike. I am not trying to nit-pick or anything, but I would think there would be too many variables to do that.
PS - there is no bore kit for the 600's that I'm aware of.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoetI don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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Originally posted by lucky6manwell or you could always drop the gsxr engine in it. right lou?Kan-O-Gixxer!
-89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
-Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
-Ohlins Susupension
-Various Other Mods
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Originally posted by YellowWhat break-in theory did you go with, finally? A bit curious...
It involves riding it like you plan on riding it, not babying it. By no means did we beat on it either. For the first 20 miles, rode it it gently, kept it under 4.5 grand on the tach. At 20 miles brought it back to the hanger. Did a oil change and filter change. Refilled and went. Kept it under 6k on the tach. So far I have about 90 miles on the new engine. As soon as the new carbs come in, I plan on getting it fully broke in (600 miles) in one weekend. Then we will drop the engine, do a valve adjustment, go over everything, make sure everything is remaining tight, and put the body back on.Kan-O-Gixxer!
-89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
-Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
-Ohlins Susupension
-Various Other Mods
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Originally posted by MojoeLou....the 1250 kit with the head ported and polished with 38mm carbs will give you roughly 165hp....so I was told. He also could have just been giving me a sales pitch. It might only be 155....I really can't say. If he was being straight...it's around 165.
my 2c i have bored/stroked quite a few car motors and if you do not also port/upgrade the head, add more cam and intake/exhaust flow all you will add is low end torque.
The bottom line is all most be in balance you can perhaps cover-up lack of port flow with more cam timing but then the ramp rates change for the opening closing events and this will limit rev limits unless upgrades are done to springs.... This is just general info as I do not know the volumetric efficiency of the heads.
Also I do not see aftermarket cams for the 91-92 1100? When I asked in other forum was told the valve train on the 91-92 1100 would not take more of a ramp rate, with out failure, they suggested using a 'busa 1300 head. Can anyone shed light on this?William the Wild1
Red 1992 1100 only dumped once by a little old lady, in 7K miles
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Originally posted by SweetLou...I plan on getting it fully broke in (600 miles) in one weekend. Then we will drop the engine, do a valve adjustment, go over everything, make sure everything is remaining tight, and put the body back on.
Curious
=-= The CyberPoet
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