Running really rich??

[monte7852]

I have a 03 Katana with about 1400 miles had no issues with it since for the 2 years I have had it, untill one day it just wouldn't start, I got ****ed and held the thottle open and just kept trying to crank it pretty dumb idea. So I tore in to the bike found a good amount of gas in the air box cleaned that out. Replaced the plugs they were pretty black, replaced the oil, there was more gas than oil drained about 7 or 8 quarts of gas oil mix. I got really worried there but deside to reassemble and see what happens. Got it all back together fired up ok went for a ride was running great and stronger than before rode for about 5-6 miles came home but the stand down let the bike run on the stand and it started to die pulled the bike back up straight ran fine.

Went for a ride few days later started ok, and about 2 miles from home it died in an intersection bairly got it restarted. and less than a mile down the road died and wouldn't restart, waited 15 min and got it restarted and got back to the intersection where it died and it died again wouldn't restart finally restarted about 20 min later got about a mile from home died again I just pushed it home from there

I called around to see about getting it in to have a pro look at it one shop said in may be the carbs need to be celaned out and the needles replaced. The next shop I called said it may be that the rings are bad, when he said that I get really worried. I don't know much about bikes thais is my first, so I was going to have the work done for me.

Any ideas or suggestions I would really apprichate starting to get worried
thanks

[Cheriff]

Not a bike mechanic here, but I think the shop is full of sheet. Carbs needed cleaned (parts are not worn out at 1400 miles). I also suspect that the floats are stuck in addition to either a faulty petcock or it is in the wrong position. It should be turned to "on" not to "prime".

Also, don't turn that thing on again until you flush with some clean oil. Gas in oil is bad. You will likely have to change it a couple times for good measure. A couple oil changes are cheaper than the alternative.

I forgot to mention that you need to also empty the oil in the oil cooler. You want to get as much of the bad stuff out as possible. Maybe even let the drain plug out overnight so even more runs out.

[monte7852]

Yeah I never knew where to run the petcock thought PRI stood for primary, seriously they should have put a sticker on there that said "Prime" instead of being cheep and leaving off 2 important letters but that is just my opnion. I may have messed with the petcock before my issues. That explains the gas in the air box.

The bike sat most of the first year 1.5 I owned it and I ran some garbage gas through that time when I did get around to running it.

what kind of shop time would it take to clean them out?

thanks for the response, feeling much better

[Cheriff]

Removing the oil cooler is pretty easy. There are two banjo bolt connections on either side (top left and top right). Remove the four bolts holding these on. You will want to use a quick motion to break them free as they will probably be pretty tight. Next in the center (top) of the oil cooler are two bolts that secure it to the frame. Remove those. Now after leaning it forward a little and removing the rubber sheet/splash guard sheet you should be able to slide it left or right then lifting up. There is a little 'fin' at the bottom that sits in a track; this is what you are trying to get it out of. That is pretty much it.

I would also recommend downloading the service manual that is available here. Don't know the link to it, but a little search will give you a good resource to help you with this (and other things).

[GregS]

1) Please don't blame Suzuki for not spelling out "Prime", it's in the owners manual. Everyone should read their manual even if you think you know everything. We already have enough labels and warnings on everything we buy, protecting us from ourselves.
2) If you have some slightly more than basic mechanical ability you could clean the carbs yourself on a Saturday. There are some good instructions posted here somewhere. A pro could do it for 2 to 3 hours labor charge, shops will vary a lot and their skills will vary even more. Best to get recommendations from local riders on who to go to.
3) If you let your bike sit for long periods of time then you should get in the habit of storing it properly to avoid this happening again. Search for instructions in this forum.

[monte7852]

Oh don't get me wrong I don't blame anyone but myself, I should have found out what the settings meant, my first bike dumb mistake hopefully no damage done.


I have what I would call above average mech ability I do work on my truck and a lot of work on my Monte Carlo but when it comes to carbs and engines I never trust my work and always second guess my work no matter if I was done perfectly, I also am planning a long trip in 2 weeks and want it to go as smooth as possible.

thanks again

[Newbie2it]

Well, you could PM Arsenic and if you fed -ex them quickly and he fed-ex's back, you might have them back in time for your trip. I think hes around 100.00 or so without fed-ex fees tho. Just one option for someone on here thats willing to clean them for you.