a few questions about adjusting valves on a 97 kat 600

[Chris600]

I've read a few threads on here but still have a few questions.

1. Do you need to remove the cams?
2. What gaskets will I need to replace?
3.Do I need to remove anything besides the side farings to get at the head?
4. Is there anything that would make a ticking sound besides the valves? (It has 10k on it and the oil is new and full)
5. Do I need any special tools?
6. What's the part number for a Haynes manual for my bike? I see they have a few but I'm not sure what one to get.

I think that's it, for now.

[Black_peter]

Answers:

1. no

2. Only the ones that are cracked or degraded,
though you may want to pick up some gasket sealer.

3. Yes the gas tank, cross bar (under the tank)
and coils, I was able to sneak the valve cover out with out removing any cables.

4. Exhaust gasket leaks can cause ticking, cam chain umm lots of things..

5. No.

6. dunno.. Just read the discription carefully.

[The CyberPoet]

My answers only for those where there is a difference of opinion with BlackPeter's answers (or more info). Note the info we are posting is for the 98+ Katanas based on an educated guess and your mileage -- if you have a pre-98, the information can be radically different (such as if your bike uses shims instead of nut-adjuster valves):

2. What gaskets will I need to replace?

In theory, you should replace all the gaskets. Usually, you don't need to replace any of them -- but age and condition play into it. Possible parts include: Valve cover gasket, spark plug hole gaskets, oil feed line gaskets. The first two are available as a combined set, if I recall correctly.

3.Do I need to remove anything besides the side farings to get at the head?

Everything BlackPeter mentioned (you have to remove the lower fairing to get the upper fairings off -- but it can be done without removing the upper fairings completely). I remove all the fuel control cables (throttle, choke) because it makes getting at everything easier.
If you have a California model, you'll also need to remove the PAIR valve assembly and rubber cover over the coils/valve cover.
KNOW THIS: the front-most hex bolt on the valve cover is much easier to get out if you drop the oil cooler first (place a towel over the back of the front wheel fender to avoid scratches).

4. Is there anything that would make a ticking sound besides the valves? (It has 10k on it and the oil is new and full)

Under-torqued exhaust header bolts, cam chain (causes sounds like a sewwing machine), bad drive chain (stuck linkage), loose or missing fairing bolts, etc.

5. Do I need any special tools?

YES. You definitely need a torque wrench if you don't have one...

You will also have an easier time if you use either the stock Suzuki Tappet adjuster tool (part number 09917-14910, $4.50 - $10, available RonAyers or your local dealership), or the complete MotionPro tappet adjuster combo tool set ($36.08 - Cheapest price I've seen on it - at AZ MotorSports Group. The MotionPro kit has both the nut adjuster and the tappet adjuster as a single combo tool (as well as the adjusters for every main-stream Jap & European nut-adjuster valve on the market, so you'll never buy one again). In an ideal world, you'll also have a carb sync to sync the carbs afterwards, but it's not absolutely necessary. You can get around using these tools with the use of a small adjustable wrench and the appropriate sized deep-socket socket wrench.

6. What's the part number for a Haynes manual for my bike? I see they have a few but I'm not sure what one to get.

Get the factory (Suzuki-brand) service manual instead and skip on the Haynes. It will have all the information you need and would have answered all these questions ahead of time. It's a bit pricier, but it's like the bible for the bike (and you can sometimes find illegally scanned versions on eBay cheaply). You should also be able to order it from RonAyers, BikeBandit, or your local dealership (Part number 99500-35072-03E was the old part number, thru '01 or '02 models; they have a new part number that ranges through the '05 model year -- only difference is the appendiums at the back as far as I know).
If you want the haynes or chiltons, try this link to see it -- not the 98+ version covers 1998 - 2005 although the cover says it ranges to 2002 (no major changes between the '02 and '05 model years for the engine/tranny).

KNOW THIS:
The engine needs to be truly cold when you do this -- i.e. the entire engine should be at ambient room temp and should not have run in the last 8 hours.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet