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Question about Rust in Tank - POR 15

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  • Question about Rust in Tank - POR 15

    So i definately have a heavily rusted gas tank, so i checked out cyberpoet's site on the corrective action, and it looks like POR 15 is the way to go. But how easy is this method? and What does this mean to a kat owner : "Note that the POR-15 kit listed above also contains a stripper specifically designed to remove Kreem and/or RedKoat tank liners, if you've gone that route before and run into problems." Should i be okay? Thanks for all the help.
    "Requesting permission for flyby"

  • #2
    i would try really hard to find a clean tank. i just don't like 'coatings'

    tim

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    • #3
      There are 2 different por 15 tank cleaners. One is for tanks that have been sealed before, the other is for ones that have not. Basically, you just dump the stuff in yoru tank, swish it around, and dump, repeat, blaa, blaa, blaa. For the actuall Coating stuff, you have to put a hair dryer or something in there to assist in drying it. Not to hard, your arms may get tired from sloshing the stuff around in the tank. You would want to remove all tank hardware, cover it with tape, and go at it. I have been thinking of doing mine as well. My understanding is POR 15 is top notch.
      Kan-O-Gixxer!
      -89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
      -Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
      -Ohlins Susupension
      -Various Other Mods

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      • #4
        Re: Question about Rust in Tank - POR 15

        Originally posted by ivkat
        So i definately have a heavily rusted gas tank, so i checked out cyberpoet's site on the corrective action, and it looks like POR 15 is the way to go. But how easy is this method? and What does this mean to a kat owner : "Note that the POR-15 kit listed above also contains a stripper specifically designed to remove Kreem and/or RedKoat tank liners, if you've gone that route before and run into problems." Should i be okay? Thanks for all the help.
        (A) POR-15 sells two motorcycle gas tank kits. The more expensive one includes a stripping chemical specifically to remove RedKoat and Kreem brand liners -- aftermarket gas tank linings that some users can develop issues with. If the inside of your tank is metal rather than coated with a rubbery substance that is white, tan, green or red, you don't need the more expensive of the two kits (since it means you don't have a RedKoat or Kreem liner installed by a previous owner).

        (B) It's not hard to do, but it is time consuming to do 100% right -- most of that time is wait time. To do the POR-15 right will take you four to seven days.
        Day 1: remove & drain tank, rinse out, cap off sender & petcock openings. Put in first step of the flushing process. Shake, sit the tank down, walk away. Come back and rotate the tank in an hour or two. Repeat through-out the day. At the end of the day, examine it and decide if it's done (all the rust is gone) or if you should leave it overnight. If the rust is really bad, you'll leave it overnight.

        Day 2: Shake, dump, rinse, rinse, rinse, rinse again under pressure (garden hose, pressure washer, etc). Recap tank's openings, install part 2 of the process, shake, let sit, check back later. Rotate as necessary, let sit. Finally dump, rinse, rinse, rinse, rinse again under pressure. Now let dry 100%; hair dryer helps big time. Do not continue until ALL the water and every hint of moisture is out of the tank.

        End of Day 2 or start of Day 3: Check to make sure the tank is 100% dry. Rotate and recheck, maybe hit it with the hair dryer again for another 15 minutes just to be sure. Shake up the POR-15 coating well. Check your seals on the tank openings and make sure you have wire or something else to block any metal tubes (such as the drain tube). Apply (pour in the coating, rotate tank until it's 100% covered on the inside). Sit to dry, rotate again every 15 minutes for an hour. Pull out the wires or other blocking for any tubes once it sets. Now leave it alone for four days to cure.

        Day 3-4-5-6: allow to cure. It actually cures well in medium to high-humidity environments, so you don't need a special dry curing place but keep it out of direct sunlight and out of the rain. 99% of the curing will happen in the first day, but you want it to cure all the way.

        Day 7: check to make sure it is 100% cured (it will be normally). Reinstall.

        Cheers
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

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        • #5
          wow, thank you for the quick responses, that helps a lot. Also do you guys have any special way of removing ALL of the gas from the tank, when i did it last (to paint, probably when i got the rust too) i couldn't get even close to all of the gas out. thank you.
          "Requesting permission for flyby"

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ivkat
            wow, thank you for the quick responses, that helps a lot. Also do you guys have any special way of removing ALL of the gas from the tank, when i did it last (to paint, probably when i got the rust too) i couldn't get even close to all of the gas out. thank you.
            Remove the petcock assembly and the fuel sender assembly. Rotate the tank. That should be all of it out with some patience. In this case, since the chemicals get cut with water during application, you can use water to rinse out excess gasoline.

            Cheers
            =-= The CyberPoet
            Remember The CyberPoet

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