[Psycho1]

Thats what makes it so interesting, all the variables. With the smaller carbs, you would have better velocity at low rpm's, but poor fuel atomization at low rpm's with wide open throttle. With the bigger tb's, you'll lose velocity, but have nearly perfect atomization and can tune it to meter the fuel perfectly throughout the engines full rpm range, eliminating flatspots common to most carb fed engines.. I would expect to see a lot flatter torque curve with the injection with more peak torque and hp. The question is just how much more.

[TheSteve]

How much does a single dyno run usually cost? Not to tune, but just to get a HP number. It might be worth it, as I highly doubt I'll get anything definitive out of a quarter mile run being that I'm a newbie to riding and wont be able to launch for anything. Now if you also control spark timing with MS I'm sure you can expect a significant increase in power. At least an extra 15hp wouldnt surprise me with accurate fueling and an aggressive timing map.

[Psycho1]

not sure what a pull on the dyno would run in your area. In Oregon, sometimes shops hold a dyno day, and let people make runs for $30-$50 each pull, normally just to get a print out I think it's somewhere between $80-$120 depending on the shop. (but don't quote me on this). Hoping to get a chance to put my 600 on the dyno later this summer after I get 2nd gear fixed just to see what it says. The original owner told me supposedly he saw 80hp when it was stock on the wheel dyno, and 105hp after all the mods. I met him a few months after I bought the bike from a local dealership, so he shouldn't have had a reason to inflate it. I know it runs a lot stronger than stock, just not sure it's truely 100+hp.

[TheSteve]

Thats not bad. Might be worth it down the road, but for now I'll just worry about getting it running. Tuning should be fun, usually I have the laptop in the passenger seat so I can play with it while driving. Here I plan on having the laptop connected in my backpack tuning to preset AFRs. Hopefully this version of MS supports that, I might need the extra firmware to get the AFR target table

[Psycho1]

Might have to be a big backpack. My laptop shuts down if I close the screen, so I'd have to have it opened for it to work. Maybe you could rig up some kind of tank mount for the laptop, like using a tankbag or something.

[Black_peter]

Might have to be a big backpack. My laptop shuts down if I close the screen, so I'd have to have it opened for it to work.

That is configurable in your power settings..

[TheSteve]

Hehe I can't imagine the looks id get with a running laptop on the tank while riding down the freeway. Mine will stay on while closed, but since I wont be able to see it I have to hope that the MS software doesnt start doing something crazy.

Hmm. There are no AFR target tables in MS1 standard code. Looks like I'll be upgrading to the MSnS-E (Megasquirt n Spark-Extra) code, or riding a little then pulling over to check and refine the logs. I'd rather use the Extra code to allow the target tables for autotune as well as a few other things. This shouldn't require any hardware mods for fuel only IIRC. This will also allow for a 12x12 table instead of the small 8x8.

[Cheriff]

That is configurable in your power settings..

Right click desktop, properties, screen saver tab, should be "Power Settings" "Power options" - something like that towards the bottom.

For non Vista that is...

[Psycho1]

After checking, Vista has options for that too under power settings.

[jwilliams]

Hello,

I have been following this like crazy as this was going to be my next winter project. Planned to use a MicroSquirt with the same TBs. My TBs are shipped to my Niagara Falls NY address and I haven't gone and get them yet (I'm in Toronto). (easier to ship to US address and bring back sometimes when shipping from e-bay)

- re laptop: Isn't there a program for the Palm Pilot that lets to log and tweak on the fly? If so that would be the way to go on the bike! I have 2 older Palm Pilots but they are cheap on e-bay (older ones)

- re Lamba sensor: I have a pre98 750cc and the original exhaust. What's the thoughts on putting the sensor in the cross tube under the motor or just in 1 half of the exhaust (ie where the 2 into 1 happens)? I had planned on getting an oil pan and header from a 98+ (actually a Bandit 1200) but have yet to do. But could I tune it with the dual exhaust? (then I don't have to wait for header/oil pan)

- re Dyno: A shop here in the GTA (Riders Choice) does 'Find Out HP' Dyno runs for $40. My bike is apart right now (front end swap going far to slowly) but once it's functional I'll try to get a dyno run before I FI it.

- re throttle cable: anyone think it's worth while coverting the Kat to dual cable to run the GSXR TBs as they were designed? I figured either a GSXR throttle or a custom mod to the Kat throttle to accept 2 cables (didn't look too hard when I looked) and some longer cables so I don't have to relocate the throttle linkage etc on the TBs

I had hoped to do fuel only initially and test spark as well as a phase 2.

Thanks, Jeff

[TheSteve]

I think there is a palm app, though I think itd be more trouble than its worth. I've heard its kinda picky and doesnt work occasionally.

I think that the crossover pipe would work, but not being in the direct flow you might have to factor in a bit of sensor lag. You might be better off placing it in just one of the pipes. If the throttles are synced correctly they should be about equal. The widebands are all heated sensors, so they can be pretty far back in the exhaust stream and still be functional. If you get a narrowband for use after the initial tuning, make sure its a heated sensor. They have 3 or 4 wires instead of 1.

If I was to make the throttle work without welding, I'd probably get a GSXR cable, and possibly the right grip as well. This should make it work alright. Keep in mind though that with the cable oriented as it should be (on top) the fuel rail is going to hit the alternator. I have a feeling its going to be a little work either way you do it.

[TheSteve]

Alright, it works. The ignition signal is picked up perfectly now. Unfortunately the last few cranks pretty much drained my battery, so I'll have to wait a bit before I can try and fire it up

[TheSteve]

Everything is working but now my ignition quit. So now I have perfect fuel but no spark. Once I diagnose that I'll hopefully have the engine running

Well I sort of have spark. If I jiggle the run switch it sparks, but its pretty dim. Disconnecting the MS has no effect, so I dont think its a power drain issue. Maybe later I'll try hardwiring the + side of the coils to the battery and connect the CDI to its own ground. I cant think of much else it could be.

[Court93kat]

On a lot of Kats, the run/kill switch in the control pod gets corroded. You can just take the pod apart, scrape the contacts for the run/kill and also the start button while in there. That should help out with the contact issue.

I would try that before rewiring stuff.

I have already started collecting parts for this conversion myself. I think you are starting a revolution my friend.

ALL HAIL TheSteve and philwecksr!!!!

[TheSteve]

Hmm. I'll try that. I'm probably going to ground the CDI directly no matter what. With a weak spark I know for sure that somethings not getting power or ground. Again I'd like to emphasize the inadequate grounding system on the Kats (pres at least, never looked at a post). Its a single tiny gauge wire going to EVERYTHING. It would be barely enough with a few light bulbs, but now running a full efi system its flaws are quickly becoming apparent. The fix is very easy though, which is a relief.

I'd actually recommend waiting on some of the parts. Looking back, I think I mightve been better off with the other MS version so I wouldnt need to mess with the GM part. Though it does work, its one more part you need to worry about. I'd buy the basic parts now like the TBs, pump, generic FPR, etc, but you might want to wait to see what Phil comes up with to find the overall best solution. I am relieved that the MS and EFI stuff all works though. If only I could get the OEM Kat stuff to follow suit!

Hopefully it'll be running soon, and by the time you get yours done I should have some pretty good fuel maps posted up. Might even save you from needing a wideband if I can get it close enough.