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valve adjustment

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  • valve adjustment

    Hey 2nd post here nice site.

    Got a 2001 600 kat.

    Want to adjust valves tonight. I read the tut on it in the sticky section. I have 3 questions.

    Do I have to use the special tool. If not what is a second and third best alternatives???

    It says something like put the "T" on the mark?????? I looked at the IG adv in the photo and seen NO "T" Also I asome this is TDC???

    Once in that position can I adjust all the valves or do I have to rotate the motor again between I and E valves?????

    OH one more

    What do I use to rotate the motor??? Is there a nut to turn???? Its a great tut just could be a tiny bit more newb friendly!!! Good work to whoever wrote it!!!!

  • #2
    No, you don't have to have the special tool, but it does help. A pair of vise grips or needle nose pliers will work. Shorter is better. If you've got a tiny adjustable wrench (less than 4 inches long) that would probably work too.

    The T is on the rotating piece on the ignition advancer. It's visible in the photo... Yes, the mark indicates TDC for cylinder one and also for another cylinder after you turn the bolt 1 full rotation. The bolt is right in the middle of the signal generator. I don't remember the size right off hand.

    Which valves are adjusted on which rotation is not as simple as intake on one and exhaust on the other. You'll have to look at the diagrams on Tim's how-to to get a better idea of which ones are adjusted when.
    Attached Files


    • #3
      Nice job TemtnF8


      • #4
        I read it and didnt see where it said to turn it again!!!! Let me look again.


        • #5
          OK got the t mark TY where im having a problem understanding the diagram??? C and D is meaning nothing to me. Can you help me understand it please!!

          Here is the link to the tut


          • #6
            Actually I found this tut for a bandit and it explains this part better and appears to be the same for the kat....could you look at it and tell me if im right....I think I understand this tut.


            • #7
              The C and D are to notate which valves can be adjusted at the same time. When cylinder 1 is at TDC valves labeled C can be checked. When the motor is rotated 1 full turn after checking all the C's (using the bolt on the signal generator, re-aligning the T) you can check the D's. You can use the cam marks to figure out which is which. I don't recall whether both marks pointing IN is for checking position C or D, but I'm sure someone here knows off hand.

              You can also use the cam lobes to determine which valves to check. Basically, when the T is lined up check all the valves where the lobe is either 'Up' or 'Out' and don't mess with the ones that are 'Down' or 'In.' If you've ever seen a cam in a motor you should be able to figure out what I mean. If not, disregard this paragraph and refer to the tutorial using the guidance I've already given you.


              • #8
                Originally posted by Black_peter
                Nice job TemtnF8
                Nice of you to say, thank you!

                Honestly though it was a 30 second photochop, and I'm not proud of the quality.


                • #9
                  TY I WILL START TONIGHT sorry for caps ooops. Hopefully someone will be on if I run into problems


                  • #10
                    I am down to the valve cover and got all the allen head bolts out and the cover doesnt budge. I see 4 hex head bolts but dont know if I should remove them or not. I took one out and it looks like it is something to alow oil to run through it???


                    • #11
                      OK I answered that last one on my own. NOW something else. THis bike has got 5000 miles on it and never had the valves looked at once. I take it apart and all the specs are perfect. Intakes are between .004 and .005 closer to .004 and the exhaust is in the good range on the tight end???? Does this sound right. Shouldnt I have some looseness???


                      • #12
                        So long as your valves are still all in spec, you're fine. Granted, you'd prefer them to be a little loose than a little tight, but so long as you're within tolerances, don't worry. Button her back up and check her again in another 5k miles...


                        • #13
                          I messed around and loosened a couple up anyways as they were barely .004 and just to do it. I made sure all were in the middle of the range. Got most of her back together but the gasket on the timing cover ripped so I will have to get one tommprrow or make one with gasket sealer. ACK my back is killing me!!!! Learned a bit about my bike too bad I will sell it soon as I can. Its a bit to uncomfortable for me and my ole lady. Oh well it was fun and the beer cold.