AWW $&!@!! I broke two header bolts

[mystahagy]

Hi all,
Well I am currently icing the top of my hand right now, didn't know it could swell that much. But anyways, I broke off two header bolts at the head of the bolt, so I've got about a quarter inch of thread to work with. I don't know what to do!!! haha Anyone had this problem and welded a nut onto it? Thanks for ANY suggestions.

Dennis

[zleviticus]

only on cars.. welding a nut on it can help.. or use penetrating spray on them and use a bolt exctrator.

[SweetLou]

I would try to eld a nut on. I had to do that with a car header once, and it wokred like a charm. I would also try some oil on there first though to help loosen it up before welding that bolt on.

[zleviticus]

yeah if you are doing some welding to the bolt don;t put anything uh flammible on it like penetrating oil and such.

[The CyberPoet]

If you're like most people, you don't have access to a welder. That means you have to go a different route... Figure the bolt has dielectrically rusted a bit and the expansion from the rust is holding it into the threads...
Here's some choices (use any/all that you can):

(A) Heat the bolt and head with a propane torch, the type you use for kitchen sink soldering. Then douse it with a penetrating oil liberally and let it cool quickly as a result. This should both crack the rust-bond (or loctite bond if the last person to install them was an idiot) and pull the penetrating oil down into the threads.

(B) Hit the end of the bolt with a hammer a couple or a half dozen times (not slam it, just tap it firmly). Again, this should help free the rust-bond/loctite bond.

(C) Now clean off the exposed end of the bolt with either spray electrical cleaner or some windex/dish detergent/etc (remove the oil from the exposed portion).

(D) Tighten down a pair of vice grips as far as you can and still get them to clamp onto the remaining part of the bolt. Take the hammer and tap the vice-grips at about mid-handle so it starts to rotate the bolt (again, firm taps but not slamming it). This again should help break the rust-bond/loctite-bond. Once it turns about 1/4 of a turn, you should be able to turn it the rest of the way out.

In the future:
1. Always coat the header bolts with high-temp antiseize (either moly or a copper paste);
2. When you get the hex into the end of the bolt and it doesn't want to come out, take the vice grips to the head of the bolt from the exterior -- you get far better purchase. Remember to tap that puppy to break the bond.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[mystahagy]

Thanks for the suggestions. I actually have access to a welder, but that means trailering the bike up to work. Instead I'm gonna start easy, and bring a propane torch and some ginormous vise grips home from work. I'll let ya'll know how it goes...
Dennis

[ne-oublie]

I use something called aero-kroil, this stuff is amazing,spray,tap stud a few times,leave a while repeat,and 99% of the time i can remove anything,especially steel bolts in alluminum.

[xbubbax]

Kroil is the shit!!!! it gets into anything that has a crack to loosen up any "stuck" parts that are seized

[WildKat]

I had this same issue w/ 2 header bolts, both rusted beyong belief, on my yamaha 2 years ago.. I used every penetrating oil I could find..and since i had no access to a welding unit, I had to take it to a local shop, have them retapped.. cost me 125.00 !

[Special K]

I kinda like the pentrating oil then vise grips route first.

Then, if that does not work, I weld a nut to whats left or drill it out...........and retap it........

[Special K]

I kinda like the pentrating oil then vise grips route first.

Then, if that does not work, I weld a nut to whats left or drill it out...........and retap it........

[The CyberPoet]

I kinda like the pentrating oil then vise grips route first.

Then, if that does not work, I weld a nut to whats left or drill it out...........and retap it........

And when a time warp causes him to try it twice, he uses the "old Skool secret" -- which is cutting a slot in the bolt with a dremel and then putting a flat tip screwdriver bit in the impact driver -- smack the bolt a couple times. Keith, careful with those meds -- you took them already tonight.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[SweetLou]

yeah if you are doing some welding to the bolt don;t put anything uh flammible on it like penetrating oil and such.

Oh, don't be such a wuss.

It will only burn for a few seconds....

[md86]

which is cutting a slot in the bolt with a dremel and then putting a flat tip screwdriver bit in the impact driver -- smack the bolt a couple times.

I did that yesterday taking the bolts out of my muffler to TRY to repack it . Got the bolts out pretty easily ! Now if only this stupid thing will come apart ....

[xbubbax]

another last resort would to have the screw permantely in thereand retap as so sugessted by Need4Speed, but that would be the last resort.

i would really trey to get a hold of the aero-kroil, or just kroil in a can, and give it a couple of hours, and like cyber suggested, use a dremel and make your own flathead tip on the bolt and try to het it out with a screw driver.

that sucks ballz. i hope that never happens to me.