Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Advice on brake/clutch parts

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Advice on brake/clutch parts

    Ok, I'm way over due for new brakes, and I wanted to get some input from you guys. 750 '90 kat

    These are the cheapest I found http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...link:middle:us
    Which over 10$ less than jcwhitney
    Explore JC Whitney for premium auto parts & accessories, dive into car culture, & stay updated with the latest automotive events & tech trends

    but is getting the cheapest brakes a bad idea (it does say "off road" in the description)? Anyone know of any other good places? (i'm looking for both front and rear)

    I'm also looking for a new brake cable, and clutch cable but haven't found much, any suggestions are welcome.

    Thanks

  • #2
    There are only two things I NEVER skimp on, they are brakes and tires. He never mentions a brand name on those pads, I would be leery.

    As to the brake cable, the bike doesn't have one. Only brake hose.

    I tend to order most of my OEM parts from CyberPoet, ronayers, and bikebandit, in that order.
    Pics
    Pics
    No pics yet
    Just because they sound the same doesn't mean they are: there≠their≠they're; to≠too≠two; its≠it's; your≠you're; know≠no; brake≠break

    Comment


    • #3
      "Off-road" usually means they aren't DOT approved.

      But I agree, brakes and tires are two things you shouldn't skimp on.
      -Steve


      sigpic
      Welcome to KatRiders.com! Click here to register
      Don't forget to check the Wiki! http://katriders.com/wiki

      Comment


      • #4
        First off you say "brake cable"..

        Do you mean brake lines / hoses? If you have the original one's they NEED to be replaced.

        You can get stock replacements, but because of the (3) line setup, + the rear, it's going to cost just as much if not more than just buying some HEL Stainless braided lines from one of the members here. His are right at $140 shipped for front and rear.

        You can look online. For the front (remember you need TWO sets of pads, since there are two calipers) for a good pair of pads you're looking at around $24-30 a set.

        Add another $25 or so for the set you need for the rear (one caliper in the rear).

        Don't forget to check out your calipers, because more than likely they WILL need to be rebuilt on a 17 year old bike.

        that's another $40 in parts to rebuild all three calipers. Labor is free if you do your own work, and it's not rocket science.

        Don't skimp on brakes. Unless you plan on using the money you save to buy better gear...

        HTH

        Comment


        • #5
          I run EBC brakes from the stealership. good name, and easy to get them. ctandc rebuilding the calipers is good advice too. if my kat doesn't sell i may do that soon.
          '90 Katana 600

          Comment


          • #6
            I run (well, ran, before I had the Kat stolen) EBC brand pads in HH formulation, which I think of very very highly (figure around $25-$30 a caliper from any dealer). Upside is they stop the bike very very fast; downside is they build heat very very quickly (don't use them if you live in a very mountainous area or your brakes might overheat). Stock formulation for the Kat from Suzuki is GG rated.

            HS2020 carries CarbonLoraine pads, which I haven't tried but are known as high-quality goods as well. He also carries HEL brand braided SS brake lines, a very good upgrade.

            I do carry clutch/choke/throttle cables for all the Kats, as well as the caliper rebuild kits and piston seals for the 98+ and some of the pre-98's. At minimum, the piston seals should be replaced any time you change pads (you can clean the pistons manually, or for about an extra $8 you can simply replace them). Details on what I carry is here:

            Details on what is required to do a brake rebuild is here:
            Complete 98+ rebuild write up, step by step, here (same basics apply to pre-98's):
            Everything from the best brake pads to use, installing new brake lines,
            swing arm swaps, adjusting your suspension or rebuilding your forks.
            Everything you need to know on those topics and so much more is here.

            and bleeding +etc instructions with pic here:
            A forum filled with write-ups, FAQ's, and visual aids for
            mechanical & cosmetic modifications to your Katana.


            IMHO: Do not go for no-name brand replacements on any brake components. Either stick to Suzuki OEM or go for one of the well-recognized, recommended brands used by others here (EBC, CarbonLorraine).

            Cheers,
            =-= The CyberPoet
            Last edited by The CyberPoet; 01-08-2008, 12:52 PM.
            Remember The CyberPoet

            Comment


            • #7
              A friend bought some no name rear pads off Ebay for their Yamaha XJ900, they were useless, didn't even slow it down no matter how hard the pedal was pressed, took them out, cleaned callipers and refitted, no effect.

              Replaced them with standard GG pads and suddenly there was brakes again.

              The money saved on buying the no names, turned out to be totally wasted as they were only fit for the bin!
              Ian

              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the replies. I think i'll get these brakes -


                I'm also looking to replace my ignition coils/wires, i looked online and found about 70$ for each oem, that's about it, does that sound right? Cyberpoet, do you happen to have any?

                also if you have them in stock I'd like to see a quote for: piston seals for all 3 sets of brakes and a clutch cable shipped to philadelphia pa. If you want more specific address i'll pm you.

                Yea i did mean brake hose, but i didn't think they would be that expensive, they don't look too old, so i think i'll hold of on them (some parts could use the money, such as my ignition wires)

                Thanks for the tips, i'm trying to walk the line of getting the most life out of this bike, while avoiding throwing money in the hole. It is still in decent condition, but as someone pointed out, it is also 17+ years old, and getting up to about 40k miles (well... the spedo reads a little fast).

                I do agree though, brakes are one hole worth filling.

                Comment


                • #9
                  EBC, Carbone Lorraine, good names I agree. I have Carbon Lorraine front pads. I'm surprised no one has mentioned Galer, thats a good name too. As far as rotors go, Galfer waves are awesome rotors, not cheap at all, but great. My rear pads are Galfer HH pads. As for the lines the Galfer SS lines are not good. The HEL lines HS2020 sells are much better I have those to.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by maikhorma View Post
                    I'm also looking to replace my ignition coils/wires, i looked online and found about 70$ for each oem, that's about it, does that sound right? Cyberpoet, do you happen to have any?
                    That sounds about right for the coil with the two spark plug wires integrated.

                    Originally posted by maikhorma View Post
                    also if you have them in stock I'd like to see a quote for: piston seals for all 3 sets of brakes and a clutch cable shipped to philadelphia pa. If you want more specific address i'll pm you.
                    I need a zip code to quote and build-year+model to quote you. Send me a PM.

                    Originally posted by maikhorma View Post
                    Yea i did mean brake hose, but i didn't think they would be that expensive, they don't look too old, so i think i'll hold of on them (some parts could use the money, such as my ignition wires)
                    Figure OEM brake hoses need to be replaced every 4th year (every 5th year on the outside). Some brands of SS lines can go a bit longer than that, but really shouldn't be push far beyond that limit.
                    As the OEM hoses age, they get stretched out, and that means much of the pressure going into the brake lever is translating into expanding the rubber lines (kind of like blowing up a balloon) rather than as force at the calipers to press the pads to the rotor. Add in that the rubber is aging to the point that it might crack and fail at any point, and skimping on brake hoses simply makes no sense if you're going to bother doing the rest. High-quality aftermarket lines aren't significantly more expensive than OEM lines, but are far better quality construction...

                    Cheers,
                    =-= The CyberPoet
                    Remember The CyberPoet

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X